Electrical Problems in a Home. Electrical deficiencies are one of the most frequent problems found during a home inspection, usually resulting from DO IT YOUR SELF home owners. According to the Electrical Safety Authority survey 32% of homes in Ontario have had electrical work done by persons other than a licensed electrician. An amazing 58% of home owners who have done electrical work admit that they have little experience.
Whether you hire an electrical contractor or do the work yourself, all electrical installations or changes must be inspected to ensure they comply with the Ontario Electrical Safety Code. This applies to private homes, offices, industrial buildings and income properties.
Basement renovations are prime locations for finding Reversed Polarity outlets. Reversed Polarity typically occurs when the “hot wire” is mistakenly attached to the neutral screw of the outlet. This has become more common with the more frequent use of plug-in wire connectors located on the back of outlets. When using the screws to attach electrical leads, the hot screw is “dark in colour”, while the neutral is “lighter in colour”. Most people make the simple deduction of Black to dark and White to light, which will give you the proper polarity. The main problem with reversed polarity is that most appliances when turned off will open the “hot circuit” which interrupts the power supply. The Reversed Polarity circuit only interrupts the neutral leaving the power on to your appliance. If you are grounded and you touch a hot wire or component you will be shocked by the results. Another scenario is your table lamps light socket, when reversed the exposed metal socket becomes live and if touched will shock you. The Barrie Home Inspector will check your electrical outlets and note any with reversed polarity.
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Bathroom GFCI ( Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) outlets are confusing to most home owners who truly do not understand the basics wiring used in most homes in Ontario. Many subdivision homes will have a GFCI in lower bathroom and it will be used to protect the upper bathrooms which are downstream of installed GFCI outlet. Without having an outlet tester home owners are sometimes un-aware that their upper bathrooms are already GFCI protected and install another GFCI outlet in their upper bathrooms. Now whenever the GFCI trips upstairs you have to reset the lower GFCI prior to resetting upstairs GFCI.
Basement renovations will sometimes lead to some pretty simple but possibly expensive repairs. Any wall is required to have an electrical outlet every 12 feet, not including doorways, which is designed to prevent the use of extension cords, which can be a fire hazard. Steel studs are required to have grommets installed where wire is passing through stud. Most contractors would not recommend putting a steel stud wall system in a basement due to the conduction problem if used on an exterior wall. If you find a section of steel stud wall where the electrical cable was not properly installed then you would naturally assume that any finished part of basement would have the same problem, which could kill your house sale, or lead to an expensive repair.
Exposed electrical cables that are under 1.5 meters high have to have protection from mechanical harm. Typically these wires would be armored cable or encased in conduit for protection. Many people simply ignore this rule and haphazardly run their cables down walls and even out to the exterior of their home. Any wiring underground has to be installed in a PVC conduit and buried a minimum of 18 inches, depths vary for various locations such as 30 inches below flowerbeds etc. Any exterior outlets added must be protected by GFCI.
The condition of older insulation jackets must be monitored. I recently inspected a home where the majority of electrical cables located, only on the left side of panel, had all deteriorated and would have to be replaced. The home owner was totally un-aware of the condition of her electrical system. The cause of the electrical cable insulation deterioration was unknown but could have been mice or contact with chemicals.
Remember when buying a older home you need to hire a home inspector who has the knowledge and experience to not only find but identify deficiencies which could affect your safety and help prevent unexpected repair expenses. Call the Barrie Home Inspector for your next purchase.
Your Homes Structure. One of the most frequent questions I am asked during a home inspection is if certain walls can be removed. To answer that question it must be determined if the wall is load bearing. A load-bearing wall is one that bears the weight and force of a structure, and transfers that weight to the ground. As rule of thumb any wall on the first floor which is directly above a wall or structural beam in the basement must be considered load bearing. If you have rafters then you will most likely have a supporting wall running parallel to the roof ridge to support your roof.
Point Load is the localization of the homes load to specific areas such as support walls, steel beams and foundations. In a home you can follow the supporting load from the second floor right down to the basement, where the load is distributed down to the footings. Older bungalows typically had a supporting wall built in the center of the basement with a poured footing below. This wall support was then continued on the second floor with another supporting wall directly above basement supporting wall. Any openings in these support walls requires a header designed to span codes of the Ontario Building Code to continue support for open area.
The use of truss construction has removed the need for supporting walls in the first floor of most bungalows. The truss provides a clear span without the need for supporting structures and most subdivision homes now use trusses for roof support. Read our recent article on trusses for more information.
The primary structure of the building provides a framework and the exterior supporting walls. The external cladding can be attached to this framework, usually via secondary steelwork. It is the primary structure which transmits the loads exerted on the cladding (wind, snow etc.) to the ground. The entire structural load is distributed down to foundation walls and then to the footing. In Ontario if your building lot is considered to be wet or on expansive soils such as clay, you will be required to double the size of your footings to provide the necessary support. One other requirement is to build on undisturbed soil which does not require compaction. Using machinery to level a foundation could cause settlement cracks in foundation due to the massive weight being supported by your footings. Your local building department is responsible to ensure that contractors follow all applicable building code requirements.
Water intrusion can affect your homes supporting joists, whether visible or concealed above a ceiling. A joist is typically made of dimensional lumber, although some products are also used. The purpose of the joist is to provide a nailing and support system for the floor sheathing and for the floor itself. The joist supports the live and dead loads placed on the floor assembly. TJIs (or the equivalent) are like mini wooden I-beams, with 2″x 2″ square stock on the top and bottom (chords), and plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) between the two. Attic or ceiling joists are used to provide floor support in attic spaces, and also help prevent the roof rafters from collapsing downward and pushing outward.
A home’s roof is usually constructed of trusses or rafters. A roof truss is a pre-engineered assembly of smaller individual framing components attached together and in a design suited to provide greater support and economy, as well as a faster installation time. It takes the place of rafters, attic (or ceiling) joists, and ridge beams, and is hoisted and nailed in place, forming the entire roof and attic structure. A roof truss spans the distance between exterior walls and requires no additional support. It is designed to take the guesswork out of field-framing for the connecting points for intricate or multiple rooflines, tray and cathedral ceilings, roof penetrations.
Many older homes and cottages have a visible sag in the roof line. The middle of the roof may also have sagged. A lack of rafter ties (collar ties) can cause rafter spread, especially during heavy snows. This often occurs near the middle of the ridge board, as outside walls keep the ends of the ridge supported. Rafter spreading causes ridge sagging and can push the top parts of the walls out, especially during heavy snows. Many older structures have a visibly bowed exterior walls and if still standing usually have support bolts passing completely through structure to provide support and prevent collapse.
Platform framing is the most used type of framing in modern homes. The floor, or platform, is made up of joists that sit on supporting walls, beams or girders and covered with a plywood or OSB sub-floor. In the past, 1x planks set at 45 to the joists were used for the sub-floor. Floor joists can be engineered lumber trusses or I-beams that have increased rigidity and longer spans, with the added benefit of conserving natural resources. They allow easier access for runs of plumbing, HVAC, etc. Balloon framing is no longer in use as this type of wall structure allowed fire in a wall to quickly spread to adjoining floors usually resulting in loss of whole structure.
Inspecting your homes foundation is a very important aspect of the home inspection and identifying locations and causes of cracks involves years of practice and knowledge. Diagonal cracks that grow in width, especially ones that are wider at the bottom than at the top, indicate settlement. Diagonal cracks over windows indicate a weak header. Diagonal cracks in a poured concrete foundation that are fairly uniform in width or are hairline-type are caused by shrinkage and, though they may allow water entry, do not constitute a structural defect.
Any crack in your foundation is capable of allowing water to penetrate into your basement. Hairline cracks are usually not considered a problem and the Tarion Home Warranty will not considered them an issue unless they are wider than 6mm or are actively leaking water. Cracking can be the result of one or a combination of factors such as drying shrinkage, thermal contraction, restraint (external or internal) to shortening, sub grade settlement, and applied loads. Cracks that occur before hardening usually are the result of settlement within the concrete mass, or shrinkage of the surface (plastic-shrinkage cracks) caused by loss of water while the concrete is still plastic.
The most accepted method of repairing a crack in the concrete is foam injection. Foam is injected into the crack and expands and seals the crack preventing any water penetration. The old method was to drill a home at a 45 degree angle into the crack and pump in foam under high pressure. The newer method is to drill straight into the crack and inject the foam. If you see a line of plugs protruding from a crack in your foundation with foam residue then this is the method that has been used to repair wall.
When planning any renovations involving your homes structure remember you must obtain a building permit and submit a plan for approval. Most building departments will have a plan of your home on file and can assist you for minor projects, depending on the staff. You may require the services of architect or registered designer to design a drawing for your building department. Never remove walls without the proper approval or consulting a qualified person.
Your Qualified Home Inspector can provide you with information that will allow you to make an informed decision regarding removal of walls etc but you still should seek a professional advice before proceeding with any work. The Barrie Home Inspector is a Certified Building Code Official and has many years experience in reviewing designs and inspecting construction projects. We provide Construction Inspection services to Canada and USA.
Century Home Inspections Real estate buyers cannot seem to get enough good quality Century Homes. Anytime I am inspecting a fairly well maintained century home it seems that the buyers were just about always in a bidding war with someone else who also wanted the property. Considering the work and expense usually involved in fixing up one of these older homes, I find it amazing the lure these older homes have on people. Century homes can be a money pit or a beautiful piece of history, and sometimes it is hard for the novice home owner to recognize the difference. Any home that has been around this long has most likely had many renovations over the years and at least some of them were do it yourself type improvements. It takes a trained eye to spot the differences in workmanship but the end result could be thousands of dollars in repairs if home buyer is not aware of some of the common pitfalls involved in buying a century home.
There are some basic items that usually are an issue in century homes and if the previous owners have not properly dealt with them the home buyers will most likely be shocked to find the amount of work and expense they may be facing. Common items are structural, asbestos, knob and tube wiring, 60 amp service and galvanized plumbing.
Every foundation on a century home is different. There were no strict building codes a hundred years ago and everyone built their homes a little different although the concept was basically the same. Most structures are supported on rock and cement walls. These old walls will still be standing after we are long gone and are usually in pretty good shape. Water problems can affect the mortar between stones and if you have any movement you may have to bring in a structural engineer for advice. If your mortar is deteriorating you can remove loose bits and re-point the stones and even give it a coat of white wash for more appealing look. If your wall is bowing or showing other signs of significant movement there may be an issue with expansive soils causing pressure on your foundation wall. This will require the services of a an experienced foundation contractor and will most likely be an expensive repair. Some foundations may require a sister wall to be poured to strengthen the existing foundation, this also is a job for an experienced contractor. Many older homes have a concrete base poured around the existing foundation to add to stability and prevent movement.
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Asbestos was used as an insulator for heating equipment and plumbing wrap in older homes. Although it is un-common to still find asbestos still in place in older homes there are areas where it may have been installed and very difficult to remove, so has been left in place. Service areas between floors is a common place to find left behind asbestos and can be very difficult to remove without replacing piping. Attics in century homes are common places to find vermiculite insulation. Any vermiculite manufactured in the Libby Montana mines is contaminated with asbestos. Asbestos cannot be visually detected in vermiculite and samples have to be sent out to labs for testing. Depending on amount and size of asbestos presence the cost of removal can be very expensive. Large amounts require encapsulated workers to have a completed sealed off work area and a decontamination area plus a clean zone. All asbestos must be properly bagged, tagged and disposed of in specific locations.
Many century homes had galvanized plumbing installed at one time in their past. This is a steel pipe which has been covered with a protective coating of zinc. One of the problems with galvanized pipe is that the minerals in the water react with galvanized material and cause scale build up. Life expectancy of most galvanized pipe is generally considered to be from 50 to 70 years, which becomes a problem if it is still in place in your potential new home. Some insurance companies will refuse to cover a home containing galvanized plumbing. Again many people will replace the accessible galvanized plumbing but may leave areas between floors and walls which are hard to access.
Knob and tube wiring is still in use in many older homes and many home owners don’t even know it is in their home. This is electrical wiring which is run between exposed porcelain insulators and looks a little like a train track as there are two conductors running beside each other. Most insurance companies will not ensure a home with knob and tube wiring and you will have to get an electrical contractor to replace any found in the home. Attics are common places where knob and tube was left and even connected to the newer type of Romex cable by either lazy electricians or un-educated home owners.
Many older homes can have a 100 amp panel installed and the listing may even list the property as having a 100 amp service, but this may not always be true. There are many times where the property owner has installed a 100 amp panel but has not upgraded the service. Always check the main switch where the service enters the building to ensure that it is not a 50 or 60 amp service that has just had a newer panel board installed. In Ontario most insurance companies will not insure a home with a 60 amp service and you will be required to upgrade service and sometimes the mast also may require an upgrade.
There are many other issues that potential buyers of century homes may encounter and some maybe very expensive to repair. Protect yourself and your investment with a professional home inspection which can prevent expensive surprises and allow you to objectively evaluate the property prior to purchase.
When buying a Century Home in Simcoe County call Roger Frost – Your Barrie Century Home Inspector
Moisture And Your Home. There are three ways that moisture can move in and out of your home, which are: air currents; by diffusion and heat transfer. Air movements accounts for around ninety eight percent of all moisture in your home. Moisture transfer by air currents is very fast-in the range of several hundred cubic feet of air per minute. Sealing air pathways is one of the most important methods of reducing moisture in the home.
Relative Humidity is the measurement of moisture in the air. For example, according to the psychrometric chart, air at 68 F (20 C) with 0.216 ounces of water (H2O) per pound of air (14.8g H2O/kg air) has 100% RH. The same air at 59 F (15 C) reaches 100% RH with only 0.156 ounces of water per pound of air (10.7g H2O/kg air). The colder air holds about 28% less moisture than the warmer air does.
The moisture that the air can no longer hold condenses on the first cold surface it encounters — the dew point. If this surface is within an exterior wall cavity, the result will be wet insulation and framing. Ventilating roofs in hot and humid conditions may add (rather than remove) moisture from attics and enclosed roof spaces. However, not ventilating roofs may void the asphalt-composition roofing manufacturer’s warranty, and slightly decrease the life expectancy of the roofing material due to increased temperature of the roof’s surface.
Roof overhangs and projections, such as porch roofs and overhanging upper floors, provide a primary means to deflect rainwater away from building walls. Thus, the potential for water penetration through siding, windows and doors is minimized. Because the protection of roof overhangs increases with increasing overhang width, larger overhangs than those recommended in this section may be important in the consideration of weather-resistant wall-barrier design. The rainfall intensity for roof drainage design is sometimes based on a 10-year return period and five-minute duration . However, other design return periods and durations may be used effectively. Adjustment factors for other acceptable design conditions are given below. A standardized design criterion on building codes does not exist, so practical experience and judgment are important.
The installation of even the most weather-resistant wall envelope system on a house does not diminish the need for proper installation, particularly with regard to flashing details at penetrations. In addition, the use of roof overhangs provides performance benefits for all cladding systems by reducing the moisture load experienced over time, and by allowing greater opportunities for walls to dry in the event of periodic wetting due to wind-driven rain. The life expectancy of various siding materials may vary widely, from 10 to as much as 100 years or more, depending on type of material, climate exposure, maintenance, and other factors.
Face-Sealed: This type of WRE relies exclusively on the ability of the outer surface of the wall and joints around penetrations to deflect water and prevent it from penetrating the wall surface. If a defect in the wall surface or joint detailing (such as caulk) exists or occurs over time, then water will penetrate and potentially accumulate in the wall, causing damage to any moisture-sensitive materials within the assembly. One example of this type of system is known as conventional or barrier EIFS (exterior insulation finish system). However, building standards only allow the use of a new type of drainable EIFS (i.e., drained cavity) on residential construction.
Rainscreen: A rainscreen can be considered an incremental improvement over the drained-cavity approach. This type of WRE is uncommon in the U.S. but has been used to some extent in Canada to address severe climate conditions. By the addition of some details to help reduce air-pressure differential across the cladding system during wind-driven rain events, water penetration into the drainage cavity is further limited. At a minimum, this approach involves use of an air barrier behind the cladding to resist wind pressures. Thus, wind pressure across the siding (which is vented and not airtight) is reduced and is less likely to result in water being driven through the siding due to pressure differentials across the siding. Also, the cavity between the cladding and water/air barrier must be compartmentalized by use of airtight blocking or furring at corners of the building, as a minimum practice. This feature prevents pressure differences on different surfaces of the building from “communicating” through a continuous cavity behind the cladding, which can cause unintended pressure differences across the cladding that drive rainwater through the cladding into the drainage cavity.
Because many of the required components of a basic rainscreen system are already present in a simple drained-cavity wall system, drained-cavity systems are generally considered a more practical alternative for typical applications. Relying on window and door products that are labeled according to standard test methods does not necessarily guarantee that water leakage will not occur through frames into walls. Frames that rely on seals and sealants at internal and exposed joints will eventually leak water, as these joints fail over time. The life expectancy of window and door units may vary widely, from 10 to 50+ years, depending on unit type and materials, exposure, maintenance, types of seals and sealants used at joints, and other factors. Frames that rely on “welding” of joints rather than sealants will generally provide a longer moisture-resistant service life.
Understanding Electricity. Electricity is hard to explain because you can’t see it. In order to understand even the basics of electronics, you must first understand what electricity is. After all, the whole purpose of electronics is to get electricity to do useful and interesting things. CURRENT is identified by I and measured in amperes. Current flows from negative material to positive material and is essentially the number of electrons per second that are carried through a conductor.
Understanding what is a ground is one of the first things you will require to understand. Household wiring has two different paths to ground. The first path is generally called a “white wire ground” (the common conductor or neutral). This grounded wire is part of every household circuit. The second wire is an emergency path to ground for safety, called “the earth ground” .
The ground conductor is a bare, or green insulated, copper wire found in most household wiring. Non-grounded appliances have double-insulated jackets, which means that there is two different layers of insulation between live wires and any grounded parts within the appliance. Electricity moves easily through most metals and even through tap water, rainwater, and people. Anything that allows electricity to flow through it easily is called a conductor
In physics and electrical engineering, a conductor is an object or type of material which permits the flow of electric charges in one or more directions. For example, an insulated wire is an electrical conductor as it can carry electricity along its length (but not across its width). It is considered the conductor and is a bare, or insulated, copper wire found in most household wiring. Non-grounded appliances have double-insulated jackets, which means that there is two different layers of insulation between live wires and any grounded parts within the appliance.
The black wire in a 120 VAC circuit system is the hot conductor. This is the wire that powers your appliances and lights. It also ties into a fuse or circuit breaker in Your panel. You should always place switches or fuses on the hot wire rather than on the neutral wire. That way when the switch is open or the fuse/breaker trips, the current will be prevented from proceeding.. This minimizes any risk of shock that might occur if a wire comes loose within your project.
Electricity is transmitted through a cable in much the same manner as water in a pipe. Add more water at one end of the pipe and water is forced out the other end. We can move energy along a wire by giving energy to an electron at one end of the wire resulting in energy being moved along the length of the wire.
Most solid materials are classified as insulators because they offer very large resistance to the flow of electric current. Metals are classified as conductors because their outer electrons are not tightly bound, but in most materials even the outermost electrons are so tightly bound that there is essentially zero electron flow through them with ordinary voltages. Some materials are particularly good insulators and can be characterized by their high resistivities:
Ontario Electrical Code Update – Please visit CSA’s website for exact rules for electrical codes in Canada
2012 Canadian Electrical Code, Part I (CEC)
Top Fifteen changes of the 2012 Code
2009 CEC – Required in dwelling units 2012 CEC – Expanded to child care facilities
Description:
First introduced in the 2009 CEC, the 2012 CEC has now extended the requirement for
tamper resistant receptacles to child care facilities. This requirement intends to reduce
electrical injuries to children who may try to insert objects into wall receptacles.
Statistics indicate that for children less than 20 years of age, roughly 2/3 of electrical
injuries were sustained by children aged 5 years or less and 44 percent of the injuries
were sustained from the insertion of a conductive item or finger into a receptacle.
Unless otherwise defined by a regulatory authority having jurisdiction for child care
facilities, the Code intends that this requirement apply to child care facilities in areas
designed to provide care to persons seven years of age or less.
Tamper resistant receptacles are identified by the mark “TR” or “Tamper Resistant”.
2009 CEC – Electric vehicles covered by Section 86.
2012 CEC – Section 86 revised and rules added to Sections 8 and 26.
Description:
As electric vehicles become more commonplace, increased standardization has become
critical to ensure that electric vehicle charging infrastructure is properly addressed in
terms of safety, capacity, and consistency. The 2012 CEC fulfills this need through new
and enhanced rules governing the safety, load calculation, and installation of electric
vehicle charging equipment.
2009 CEC – No specific requirement existed.
2012 CEC – Rules added to require receptacle for garage door openers. Description:
2) Electric vehicles.
3) Garage door openers.
1) Tamper resistant receptacles. Unless otherwise specified at the time of construction, the garage in most homes is not
provided with an electric power door opener. However, it is common for homeowners to
install a garage door opener several years after the home was constructed. Since the
door opener was not installed during initial construction, it is highly unlikely that the
necessary receptacle was provided. In this case, the homeowner will either have a
contractor install a receptacle or connect the door opener to a wall receptacle with an
extension cord. The 2012 CEC requires that a receptacle be provided for each cord connected overhead garage door opener in residential garages.
2009 CEC – No specific requirements.
2012 CEC – “Splash pads” added to definition of “pool”. Description:
“Splash pads” are an increasingly popular form of outdoor water recreation found at
many community centres and public parks. Unlike a traditional pool, splash pads do not
contain any appreciable depth of water. However, they are used by persons with bare
feet on wet surfaces, similar to decks around swimming pools. Accordingly, the 2012
CEC now classifies splash pads as pools and mandates protection such as ground fault
circuit interrupters where applicable.
2009 CEC – Contained requirements for photovoltaic systems.
2012 CEC – New section added for renewable energy systems. Description:
The expanding market for renewable energy systems led to a need for Code rules to
help ensure safety for consumers and a level playing field for installers. New CEC
Section 64 addresses the unique installation requirements for a variety of renewable
energy systems including wind, hydrokinetic, micro-hydro and fuel cells. Existing
requirements for solar power have been updated considerably to reflect new
technologies, techniques, and calculations.
2009 CEC – No requirements
2012 CEC – Receptacles for maintenance purposes required.
Description:
Health and Safety, labour, and contractor associations identified a need for a roof-top
receptacle in order for HVAC (heating ventilation and air-conditioning) technicians to
safely maintain roof top equipment. The resulting Code rule will allow the technician to
disconnect power to roof top equipment while having safe access to a nearby receptacle
for purposes of illumination, test equipment, and power tools.
4) Splash pads.
5) Photovoltaic and Renewable energy systems.
6) Electrical facilities for maintenance of roof top equipment.Page 3 of 5
2009 CEC – Weather proof receptacle covers required.
2012 CEC – Weatherproof receptacle covers required to be weatherproof “in use”. Description:
Weatherproof receptacle covers provide protection from the weather when in the closed
position. However, the cover must be open in order to plug in an appliance or other
equipment. When the cover is open, the same level of protection from the weather is not
achieved and the receptacle is exposed to potential corrosion or water damage. The
new 2012 Code Rule requires that weatherproof covers provide protection from the
weather, even when an appliance is plugged in (when the receptacle is “in use”). Such
receptacle covers are identified by the words “wet locations”.
2009 CEC – Not specifically recognized.
2012 CEC – Requirements for installation added. Description:
Traditionally, switches and receptacles are installed in boxes that are installed during the
“rough-in” stage of an electrical installation. “Self contained” receptacles and switches
are manufactured with an integral box, meaning that a box is not required to be installed
during rough-in. Such devices are commonly used in the manufactured home industry.
2009 CEC – Location of heat controls not specifically covered.
2012 CEC – Specific requirements added to Section 62 of the Code.
Description:
Given the inherently wet environment in bathrooms, the Code contains specific
requirements for the location of switches and receptacles, and includes provisions for
protection by a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter). The 2012 Code now extends
these requirements to electric heat controls that are located within bathrooms.
2009 CEC – No specific requirements.
2012 CEC – Requirements for ceiling fan outlet boxes added. Description:
CSA standard C22.2 No. 113, “Fans and Ventilators” requires that ceiling fans be
provided with #10 screws for mounting to a ceiling outlet box. Ceiling outlet boxes
specifically designed for this purpose are available in the market and new Code Rules
will help ensure that where used, such boxes are installed correctly.
8) Self-contained wiring devices.
9) Electric heat controls in bathrooms.
10) Outlet boxes for ceiling fans.
7) Protection of receptacles exposed to the weather.2009 CEC – Grounding conductors sized in accordance with Table 17.
2012 CEC – Table 17 deleted.
Description:
Previous code editions required that the grounding conductor be based on the ampacity
of the service conductors. Based on further evaluation of the grounding conductor and
it’s intended purpose, it was determined that the system grounded conductor would carry
the majority of fault current and that a #6 AWG grounding conductor would sufficiently
fulfil the intended purpose during fault conditions.
2009 CEC – contained definitions for GFCI and ground fault protection.
2012 CEC – contains new and expanded definitions.
Description:
The new code definitions clearly delineate differences between ground fault circuit
interrupters intended to protect from shock (Class A type) and those that may be rated or
set at a ground fault current higher than that specified for Class A types. New definitions
also cover equipment that is only intended to indicate or warn that a ground fault has
been detected, as well as equipment that is designed to protect equipment from
damaging ground fault currents.
2009 CEC – Classified areas specified within the rules.
2012 CEC – Classified areas set in table form and aligned with gas standard.
Description:
Similar to gasoline dispensing stations, hazardous locations exist in the vicinity of
compressed natural gas refuelling stations, compressors, and storage facilities. A new
table has been added to the code to more clearly set out the area classification around
various components of such facilities. Values within the new table have also been
revised to align with CSA standard B108, Natural Gas Fuelling Stations Installation
Code.
2009 CEC – Required contact visibility in open and closed positions.
2012 CEC – Requires visibility in open position only. Description: 14) High voltage disconnecting means
13) Classification of hazardous areas around natural gas facilities 12) New terminology for ground fault detection and protection 11) Grounding conductor size Page 5 of 5
Due to the increased electrical hazards associated with high voltage installations,
disconnecting means are required to have contacts that are visible when in the open
position. In addition to other safety protocols, this feature provides operators with a
visual confirmation that there is an air gap between the line and load contacts. By
mandating visibility only in the open position, the Code now permits greater application
of switching technologies employing new and innovative technologies for viewing the
contacts. Such equipment is often more compact, resulting in a smaller footprint and an
increase in revenue producing square footage within buildings.
2009 CEC – Conductor ampacities determined by installation environment.
2012 CEC – Conductor ampacities determined by environment, equipment, and are correlated with NEC ampacities. Description:
The Rules and Tables for determining conductor ampacities have undergone a major
overhaul and have been correlated with the US National Electrical Code. Depending on
the individual installation, higher ampacities are permitted. However, the 2012 Code
also recognizes that conductors act as a “heat sink” for overcurrent devices such as
circuit breakers. Accordingly, new Rules may affect the ampacity of conductors
connected to equipment marked with a maximum conductor termination temperature.
15) Conductor ampacities
2009 CEC – Conductor ampacities determined by installation environment.
2012 CEC – Conductor ampacities determined by environment, equipment, and are correlated with NEC ampacities. Description:
The Rules and Tables for determining conductor ampacities have undergone a major
overhaul and have been correlated with the US National Electrical Code. Depending on
the individual installation, higher ampacities are permitted. However, the 2012 Code
also recognizes that conductors act as a “heat sink” for overcurrent devices such as
circuit breakers. Accordingly, new Rules may affect the ampacity of conductors
connected to equipment marked with a maximum conductor termination temperature.
The condition of older insulation jackets must be monitored. I recently inspected a home where the majority of electrical cables located, only on the left side of panel, had all deteriorated and would have to be replaced. The home owner was totally un-aware of the condition of her electrical system. The cause of the electrical cable insulation deterioration was unknown but could have been mice or contact with chemicals.
