Common Home Inspection Deficiencies
Double Taps in Panel – A double tap in an electrical panel refers to added wires at fuse connections so as to increase the number of circuits that are available to the electrical system. This is accomplished by connecting two conductors (electrical cables) to one terminal of a circuit breaker, and or two neutral conductors under one screw at the neutral bar. Cutler Hammer and Square D both make a circuit breaker on which it is permitted to attach two connectors, these types of circuit breaker are clearly identified on their labels. The best solution to this problem is to have a licensed electrician install another circuit breaker and remove the double tap connection.
Vermiculite Insulation – Many older homes have had vermiculite insulation added to their existing insulation. The vermiculite insulation that originated from Libby Montana was found to have traces of asbestos present. The only way to determine if vermiculite has asbestos is by sending samples to a lab for testing. Having vermiculite insulation removed can cost a home owner of an average house between 8 and 15 thousand dollars. Having your home properly inspected can prevent you from having an expensive asbestos removal bill after taking possession of your new home.
Window Sill Mortar Cracks – This is one of the most common deficiencies found during a home inspection, concrete split window sills with cracked or missing mortar. On newer homes the builder will typically put caulking over the mortar seam between two pieces of concrete sill. Over time the caulking shrinks and allows water and moisture to start attacking the mortar seam. Once the mortar is cracked the natural thawing and freezing action in winter starts to break up the mortar and the moisture proceeds down to the brick below the sill. Even on fairly newer homes it is common to see the brick mortar under a window sill starting to crack, and in some cases the moisture causes damage to the brick by spalling. Spalling is when the brick (typically clay brick) absorbs moisture and then freezes, the freezing action causes the moisture to expand, blowing of part of the brick finish.
Chimney Caps – New homes have to have a one piece cap installed, no more mortar chimney caps which usually have many gaps and cracks. The requirements for a chimney cap are to be one piece and they must have a drip edge installed. The top of the cap is required to slope away from the liner. Jointed precast chimney caps are also required to have flashing installed extending from liner to the drip edge. A bond break is required between liner and cap which is comprised of a non-bonding sealant that can expand and contract with the liner. Older caps usually had two piece caps which were then sealed with mortar. Unfortunately the mortar tends to easily crack and allow water to penetrate. Failing to keep the chimney properly sealed can lead to damage to flue tile and eventual repair of some or all of the flue liner. Most people opt to insert a stainless steel chimney liner when water damage has affected their clay flue tiles.
Leaking Thermal Seals – Energy saving windows and doors have thermal sealed glass units installed which provide an air gap for insulation. Signs of a leaking seal are foggy or moisture droplets on the inside portion of the thermal unit. Most window units leak from the bottom section of the window where the support blocks are located. Cheaper builders grade windows have smaller and less support which can lead to a puncture of the sealant material causing the leak. Some people, usually sellers, will call in a company to drill holes in exterior glass unit and then clean the window interior with alcohol type product which will easily evaporate or be absorbed by the desiccant material most windows have in the bottom section. This is not a great fix as you lose your thermal seal and you might as well just break the outer glass and remove it and save yourself some money. The recommended way to repair a leaking thermal seal unit would be to remove the glass unit, slider or casement etc., and take it to a local glass repair shop. Some companies will repair the existing thermal unit while others will replace unit with a new one.
Attic Insulation – Telling potential home buyers that there is rodent trails in their attic insulation is not a pleasant experience. Women are especially concerned about the thoughts of sharing their home with some mice. Unfortunately almost 95% of brick homes that have fiberglass insulation will have mice running around in their attic. Mice can walk up a brick wall as easily as we walk on a sidewalk. They can also compress their heads allowing them to access the attic through any small hole or crack. Vinyl clad homes do not have this problem as mice are unable to climb on the vinyl material. Cellulose insulation, which is re-cycled paper treated with fire retardant chemicals, does not attract mice and when an attic is inspected there is no visible signs of rodents in the insulation. My solution on my own home was to blow in approximately 6 inches of cellulose insulation over the existing fiberglass. I have not seen a mouse since then but I would not guarantee that there was no mice living under the cellulose in the existing fiberglass insulation. Rodent trails have also been found during inspections in attics with Roxul and Rock Wool insulation types.
Reversed Polarity – Many times when a home owner has done their own renovation of a basement there are a lot of electrical outlets with reversed polarity or open grounds. This creates an immediate problem which has to be explained to the potential home buyer. When the electrical work was not done properly it indicates that there was not permit taken out for the work and it was never inspected or passed by the approving electrical authority. If this was found in a renovated basement then it usually is a safe bet that there was never any permits taken out for any work including plumbing and framing etc. When buying properties for myself I always assume that if there are visible defects in workmanship found then there will be others that are hidden by drywall, paneling and ceilings. A buyer has to weight the benefits of ignoring the fact that there was no permits or inspections performed against the possible liabilities.
Understanding Your Septic Tank. The septic tank is buried, watertight container typically made of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene. It holds the waste water long enough to allow solids to settle out, forming sludge, and oil and grease to float to the surface as scum. It also allows partial decompositions of the solid materials. Compartments and a T-shaped outlet in the septic tank prevent the sludge and scum from leaving the tank and traveling into the leach field area.The most common leach field consists of a series of trenches containing perforated pipe surrounded by septic rock, or gravel, and covered with mesh and dirt. The effluent entering the leach field is partially absorbed into the soil and partially evaporated. the leach field should not be driven on or covered by a driveway or patio.
If your home’s plumbing system does include an on-site septic system, it is incredibly important to be aware of the signs of possible damage, along with the maintenance needed to prevent it. A damaged or clogged septic system can be costly to repair. It can also impose possible health risks for homeowners, tenants and neighbors. A failing septic system could be responsible for releasing wastewater and harmful bacteria and viruses, including E. coli.
There are many different types of septic systems ranging from what are called conventional in-ground systems to sand mounds and from spray irrigation systems to stream discharge systems. There are also seepage pits, cesspools, and homemade systems. This booklet is not intended to cover every situation, but is intended to give the homeowner an understanding of the concept of how a septic system works and a better understanding of a septic inspection.
The in-ground type of septic system uses a series of perforated pipes located below the ground surface. These pipes are placed in a bed of crushed stone or aggregate. The sewage flows over the crushed stone or aggregate into the underlying soil. The condition of this soil determines how well your septic system will operate and how large the absorption area needs to be. If the absorption area is too small and the soil is too tight as with clay soils, the liquid cannot soak into the soil fast enough causing the waste to either back up into the home or emerge at the ground surface. An early sign of waste emerging at the surface is “lush growth.” The saying “that the grass is always greener over the septic tank” isn’t true when it comes to a properly operating septic system.
How often should a septic tank be cleaned or pumped? The frequency for pumping a septic system depends on a number of factors; the average frequency is between two and four years. You can, in some cases, abuse a septic system and neglect to pump it for 10 or 20 years without any apparent problem. This would be like driving your automobile for 50,000 miles without changing the oil. You might get away with it, but you would certainly cause undue wear and tear on the engine. The same is true with a septic system. You may get away with not pumping the system for many years, but you will pay for it in the end by having to replace the absorption area.
When the soil conditions are right, an area of active microorganisms is formed where the waste enters the soil. As the waste slowly percolates through the soil the microorganisms continue to grow and feed on the harmful bacteria and viruses in the septic waste. The underlying soil continues to absorb and filter the waste. Four feet of soil is all that is needed to treat the septic waste in good soil conditions.
The Barrie Home Inspector always recommends that you have your septic tank pumped by a licensed installer who can give you a written assessment of the complete septic system.
Midland Cottage and Home Inspections. The very first thing a person needs to know is what qualifications his inspector has? The Midland Home and Cottage inspector is a Certified Building Code Official by the Ontario Building Officials Association, The only home inspector to have this designation North of Toronto. Basically, this just means that, rather than the two basic courses that most “home inspectors” have, the Midland Cottage and Home inspector has over 13 recognised Ontairo Building Code courses. These courses are all over 1 week in duration and the applicant must obtain over 70% pass mark for each qualification. For a complete list of training and courses that the Midland Home and Cottage Inspector has obtained, please visit Qualifications
With over 3,000 paid home and WETT inspections our expertise is available to assure you peace of mind when purchasing a property. Every summer we inspect cottages from Rama to Tiny Beaches, Innisfil up to Midland and Penetang. Severn River, Kahshe Lake, Sparrow Lake, Georgian Bay and Lake Simcoe are just a few of our common inspection areas. Our experience ranges from the $400,000 entry level cottage to the $2,000,000 dollar dream home.
Inspecting mulit-million dollar properties is not un-usual for us as we have inspected commercial properties for our corporate clients that vary from 1.5 million to 10 million dollars. These commercial properties are not an every day occurance but just to give you an idea of our experience and training, which you get the full benefit of when using our services.
We were the first company to bring Thermal Imaging to Simcoe County and we bring a fully equiped truck to all our inspections. We take our inspections seriously and would never think of showing up in a car with a fold up ladder. We bring 3 ladders to all our inspections, 30 ft, 24 ft and 12.5 ft, if you want a professional job then you must hire a professional.
Our cottage inspections start at $399.00 in the local area, prices may vary according to distance required to travel. Our home inspections start at $399.00 for a single residential home
If you require a WETT inspection we are happy to provide that service for you. Our fee for a WETT inspection during the Home or Cottage Inspection is $50.00 per unit.
Want some important information on inspections and maintenance of your home then do a search on our Tips Web Site, where you will find lots of money saving advice for home and cottage owners.
For the most qualified inspection and for free information and advice please feel free to call me at 705-795-8255 or Toll Free at 888-818-8608
All inspection services come with an un-conditional Money-Back Guarantee.
Dianne Nice
Globe and Mail UpdatePublished on Monday, Sep. 20, 2010 12:00AM EDTLast updated on Monday, Sep. 20, 2010 6:58AM EDT
Even though it’s still warm outside, Roger Frost is thinking about winter.
Time and again, the Barrie, Ont.-based home inspector has seen homeowners rack up huge expenses because they forgot to take a few preventive steps in the fall.
The most common mistake, he says, is forgetting to seal window sills. A $5 tube of caulking is all it takes to fill in cracks and prevent moisture from damaging mortar and bricks. “It’s probably the most expensive damage to most houses, other than just letting the roof go,” Mr. Frost says. “If you don’t notice it right away, it can only take one winter and then you’ve got damaged brick to replace.”
For those closing their cottages for the season, now’s the time to seal any openings that could attract animals and trim back tree branches near the roof. Cottage owners should hire a local to remove snow from the roof to avoid a collapse, Mr. Frost says, and don’t forget to drain water from pipes and pumps before leaving for the winter.
Here is Mr. Frost’s list of fall maintenance essentials:
1. Check windows and doors. Windows should be caulked outside. Inside, make sure there is proper insulation between the window and the rough framing. Check window sills and frames for cracks where water can enter. If wood sills need repainting, get it done. Exterior doors can have weather stripping and an adjustable door sweep installed to reduce unwanted air flow and heat loss.
2. Winterize and store equipment. Drain the gas from your lawnmower. Wash and store patio furniture and gardening equipment in a dry area to prevent rust and mildew. Rather than covering your air conditioner, place some spacers on top with a weighted piece of plywood to keep snow off, but allow lots of ventilation to prevent corrosion.
3. Service your furnace. Run your furnace before it gets cold outside to avoid expensive emergency service. Annual maintenance by a technician is recommended and filters should be replaced monthly – or sooner if you have a lot of pets. If your home is still using a hot-water system, you should bleed the system by opening the valves at the radiator until water seeps out.
4. Seal your home’s exterior. Fill any gaps and cracks around windows, door frames, the foundation and pipes entering the home to keep water and animals out. Sealing your asphalt driveway, patio and wood deck can prevent them from cracking and sagging.
5. Inspect the roof. Check flashing and shingles for potential water entry points. To prevent ice build up, clean all gutters and downspouts of debris. Also, make sure your attic insulation is sufficient at the edges of the roof and that you have soffit baffles installed to allow ventilation.
6. Prevent components from freezing. Outside water supply taps and lines should be shut off from inside the home; the taps and lines should be drained of all water and left open. Insulating plumbing pipes will not only prevent any chance of freezing but it will also prevent condensation.
7. Inspect your fireplace. Clean debris from the rain cap on your chimney and check it for gaps and cracks, along with the bricks and mortar. Annual chimney cleaning is recommended and fall is the ideal time. Make sure the damper works properly. Store wood in a dry place away from the outside walls.
Professional Cottage and Chalet Inspections
Protect your investment in recreation properties by having a Building Code Qualified inspector assess your property. We offer the experience, training and latest equipment to ensure your property does not have any hidden surprises. We have over 9 years of experience in cottage and chalet inspections and we even do “boat access” inspections. (you supply boat)
Our inspections include Free Wett inspection for wood burning appliances and a Free Thermal Scan which will find heat loss, hidden moisture problems, over-heating of wiring and mould. With over 27 years of combined construction and inspection experience and over 2,000 residential home inspections we offer a 100% Money-Back guarantee if not completely satisfied.
Feel free to call and ask us about problems with your cottage or chalet at no charge. We provide assistance to many home owners who call in with problems, some even call us to explain their home inspection report that our competitors provide, we are always happy to help. We have written many articles on the different systems of cottages, homes and commercial buidings and we welcome you to browse through and look for items of interest. Visit our Home Owners Tips and Advice site and benefit from our expertise and training.
We are available 7 days a week for inspections and even work weekends. We actualy prefer to inspect cottage properties on weekends as it allows us to visit new areas and enjoy the local parks and scenery. No matter what your location our service are probably available to you, we are just a phone call away. Call Roger at 705-795-8255 or Toll Free at 1-888-818-8608
What We Bring to Your Cottage or Chalet Inspection
3 Ladders – 30 ft, 24 ft and 12 ft
Thermal Imaging Camera – Infrared detection of moisture, heat loss or overheating conditions
Moisture Meter – Up to 1 inch penetration of most building materials
2 Levels – 6 ft and 4 ft
Complete tool set – wrenches, screwdrivers, pry bars, shovels
Combustible Gas Detector
LED Snake and Colour Monitor (inspecting holes and other areas without damage)
Electric circuit checker and measuring device
Building Code Qualified Inspector – Certified by Ontario Building Officials Association
When Only the Best Will Do ! Call Roger at 1-888-818-8608 or 705-795-8255
Structural Concerns
Most smaller cottages are supported by piers and columns situated on top of bedrock. As long as water and frost heaving are not an issue this is an adequate support. Many cottages are prone to movement due to water being trapped where supports are located, allowing freezing action to move your cottage supports in the winter months…not a good situation if you happen to have drywall or other materials that will crack and become a visual eye sore. Newer and larger cottages will normally have their piers or foundations sunk down below the “Frost line” which is normally below 4 feet. This prevent the “frost heaving” effects of supports that are located on pads or similar support.
Winterizing Cottages
Many people have turned their single season cottage into a year round home or cottage. This is definately a way to recoup the costs involved with maintaining a cottage and can allow you full use of your second home. Insulation and vapour barriers are two items that are very important to your buildings health. Older cottages were not built with any concern for a buiding envelope and this is now going to be a major concern with adding insulation etc. After deciding what type of insulation you want to install, you have to determine how you are going to ensure that your insulation will not become wet and mouldy from moisture passing through it. This is where your vapour barrier comes into play, minimum code requirement is 6 mm of poly on the warm side of your wall in cold climates. This barrier prevents warm moist air from passing through your insulation where it will meet the cold air and turn to moisture, this is call the “dew point” and this is exactly what your vapour barrier is designed to prevent. In a perfectly built house all exterior surfaces, except for windows and doors, are sealed tight by 6 mm poly and even your electrical boxes are wrapped and sealed to prevent moisture from entering your wall cavity.
Insulation
There is no preferred insulation although personally I prefer blown in cellulose, this is mainly because rodents tend to avoid this type of insulation due to the chemical fire retardent used to create it. Usually 9 out of 10 homes with fiberglass blown in have signs of rodent activity in their attic. Apparently field mice can walk right up your exteiror wall, so I have been told. Electronic devices are available to keep un-wanted intruders from your attic. Vermiculite insulation was probably added to more cottage attics than any other type of insulation for small additions and renovations. There is multiple lawsuits that are now being settled based on the asbestos located in vermiculite insulation. Asbestos was mainly found in vermiculite produced in the Libby Mine in Montana and was sold under the Trade Name Zonolite. Visit Barrie Home Inspector site for complete information. Many homes, chalets and cottages have vermiculite insulation underneath fiberglass batts or blown in insulation so it is important to check prior to purchasing…many people have been shocked that their inspector failed to identify this potential health hazard.
Electrical
Many insurance companies will not insure a cottage, chalet or home that does not have a 100 amp service panel installed. Older cottages and homes may have had a lot of “handy man” additions made to the service and sometimes this additions are downright dangerous…for example the latest venture that I uncovered was a 60 amp service with a 100 amp sub-panel fed directly off the 60 amp bus bars. When in doubt have the ESA inspect your electrical installation and if there were recent renovations to property you are purchasing were the proper permits taken out….this can save you future grief and worries.
Ventilation
Many people have their own ideas how an attic should be insulated and some do not even understand the basics of proper ventilation. Your attic, if properly designed, insulated and ventilated should be the same temperature as the outside air. Proper ventilation allows any warm humid air that escapes through your ceiling insulation and vapour barrier to be removed bycombined air intakes and exhaust vents. By code 25% of ventilation must come from the bottom of your roof and 25% from the top, most people just use the soffit and top and are not concerned with adding ventilation in between, unless your have a multi-tiered roof. Turbines, ridge vents, gable vents and passive roof vents can all be used to ventilate the top of your roof. I personally like the passive or ridge vent systems. You require 1 square foot of ventilation for every 300 square feet of roof which is divided by bottom and top, so not a big requirement. Turbine vents even pull more air out of your attic but personally I find that they allow too much snow and rain into the attic. During most of my attic inspections there is always a little pile of snow or wet spot on the insulation underneath the turbine vents, even in my own home. There is not enough to cause any damage and I personally have never seen a ceiling stain or sign of moisture that was attributed to turbines, but it is my personal preference to use passive vents, they are quiet and don’t let in moisture. They make roof vents now that are hurricane proof and types that use natural wind to increase ventilation with no moving parts. As usual you normally get what you pay for.
Watch for more articles concerning cottage and chalet inspections.
Written by Roger Frost
Cottage Inspector
