Smoke Alarm Information

New Smoke Alarm Requirements as of 2015

Ontario Building Code

3.2.4.22. Smoke Alarms

(1) Except as permitted by Sentence (6), smoke alarms conforming to CAN/ULC-S531, “Smoke Alarms”, shall be installed in each dwelling unit and, except for care, care and treatment or detention occupancies required to have a fire alarm system, in each sleeping room not within a dwelling unit.

(2) At least one smoke alarm shall be installed on each storey and mezzanine of a dwelling unit.  Smoke Alarm with Strobe

(3) On any storey of a dwelling unit containing sleeping rooms, a smoke alarm shall be installed in,

(a) each sleeping room, and

(b) a location between the sleeping rooms and the remainder of the storey, and if the sleeping rooms are served by a hallway, the smoke alarm shall be located in the hallway.

(4) A smoke alarm shall be installed on or near the ceiling.

(5) Except as permitted by Sentence (6), smoke alarms required by Sentence (1) shall,

(a) be installed with permanent connections to an electrical circuit,

(b) have no disconnect switch between the over current device and the smoke alarm, and

(c) in case the regular power supply to the smoke alarm is interrupted, be provided with a battery as an alternative power source that can continue to provide power to the smoke alarm for a period of not less than seven days in the normal condition, followed by 4 min of alarm.

(6) Suites of residential occupancy are permitted to be equipped with smoke detectors in lieu of smoke alarms, provided the smoke detectors,

(a) are capable of independently sounding audible signals within the individual suites,

(b) except as provided by Sentence (7), are installed in conformance with CAN/ULC-S524, “Installation of Fire Alarm Systems”, and verified in conformance with CAN/ULC-S537, “Verification of Fire Alarm Systems”, and

(c) form part of the fire alarm system.

(7) Smoke detectors permitted to be installed in lieu of smoke alarms as provided in Sentence (6) are not required under Clause (6)(b) to sound an alarm throughout the rest of the building, provided they sound localized alarms within individual suites and otherwise meet the requirements of Clause (6)(b).

(8) If more than one smoke alarm is required in a dwelling unit, the smoke alarms shall be wired so that the actuation of one smoke alarm will cause all smoke alarms within the dwelling unit to sound.

(9) A smoke alarm required by Sentence (1) shall be installed in conformance with CAN/ULC-S553, “Installation of Smoke Alarms”.

(10) Except as permitted by Sentence (11), a manually operated silencing device shall be incorporated within the circuitry of a smoke alarm installed in a dwelling unit so that it will silence the signal emitted by the smoke alarm for a period of not more than 10 min, after which the smoke alarm will reset and again sound the alarm if the level of smoke in the vicinity is sufficient to reactuate the smoke alarm.

(11) Suites of residential occupancy equipped with smoke detectors installed in conformance with CAN/ULC-S524, “Installation of Fire Alarm Systems”, as part of the fire alarm system in lieu of smoke alarms as permitted by Sentence (6), need not incorporate the manually operated silencing device required by Sentence (10).

(12) The sound patterns of smoke alarms shall,

(a) meet the temporal patterns of alarm signals, or

(b) be a combination of temporal pattern and voice relay.

(13) Smoke alarms required by Sentence (1) shall have a visual signalling component conforming to the requirements in 18.5.3. (Light, Color and Pulse Characteristics) of NFPA 72, “National Fire Alarm and Signaling Code”.

(14) The visual signalling component required by Sentence (13) need not,

(a) be integrated with the smoke alarm provided it is interconnected to it,

(b) be on battery backup, or

(c) have synchronized flash rates, when installed in a dwelling unit.

(15) The luminous intensity for visual signalling components required by Sentence (13) that are installed in sleeping rooms shall be a minimum of 175 cd.

Types of Smoke Alarms

There are many types of smoke alarms, each with different features. Alarms can be electrically connected, battery-powered or a combination of both. The combination with a hush feature to reduce nuisance alarms are highly recommended. Smoke alarms commonly use one of two types of technology to detect the presence of smoke in the air:

These alarms consist of a light emitting diode and a light sensitive sensor in the sensing chamber. The presence of suspended products of combustion in the chamber scatters the light beam. This scattered light is detected and sets off the alarm. Photoelectric models are best suited for living rooms, bedrooms and kitchens. This is because these rooms often contain large pieces of furniture, such as sofas, chairs and mattresses which will burn slowly and create more smoldering smoke than flames.

An ionization smoke alarm uses a small amount of radioactive material to ionize air in the sensing chamber. As a result, the air chamber becomes conductive permitting current to flow between two charged electrodes. When products of combustion enter the chamber, the conductivity of the chamber air decreases. When this reduction in conductivity is reduced to a predetermined level, the alarm is set off. This is the most common type of smoke alarm. Ionization models are best suited for rooms that contain highly combustible materials that can create flaming fires. These types of materials include flammable liquids, newspapers and paint related products. We recommend installing this type of smoke alarm in the kitchen where grease fires can occur.

Every manufacturer has these alarms. They can be powered by a 9-volt battery or 3-4 double A batteries or a 10-year sealed lithium battery. In rental units, it’s imperative that the landlord install and provide batteries for these alarms.

These devices use a radio frequency to cause the other alarms to sound when one is activated. This can provide a higher level of security to homes that do not have hardwired alarms.

These devices are wired into the electrical system of the home. In homes built after 1986, only the alarm in the upper level by the sleeping area needed to be hardwired, the other levels could have battery operated devices. These alarms should have battery back up as power outages can render you unprotected if there isn’t one. This is the time when higher hazards exist when people use alternate methods of light and heating. Hardwired alarms also need to be changed after 10 years. These cannot be replaced with battery-operated alarms as this would cause a decreased level of protection and would be a fire code violation.

Homes built with interconnected hardwired alarms are protected with constant notification on all levels. When replacing these alarms make sure that the alarms purchased are compatible with the others in the house. If not they will not signal correctly and reduces level of protection.

Some manufactures have created smoke alarms that have dual sensing systems in them to assist with nuisance alarms. It would require both the smoke sensing device and the fire gas sensing device to activate before an alarm is triggered. These are helpful in homes where the style of cooking creates more smoke that average or where there have been problems with nuisance alarms that cannot be solved by the hush button feature.

SMOKE DETECTORS

A smoke detector is a device that senses smoke, typically as an indicator of fire. Commercial security devices issue a signal to a fire alarm control panel as part of a fire alarm system, while household smoke detectors, also known as smoke alarms, generally issue a local audible or visual alarm from the detector itself.

Smoke detectors are housed in plastic enclosures, typically shaped like a disk about 150 millimeters (6 in) in diameter and 25 millimeters (1 in) thick, but shape and size vary. Smoke can be detected either optically (photoelectric) or by physical process (ionization), detectors may use either, or both, methods. Sensitive alarms can be used to detect, and thus deter, smoking in areas where it is banned. Smoke detectors in large commercial, industrial, and residential buildings are usually powered by a central fire alarm system, which is powered by the building power with a battery backup. Domestic smoke detectors range from individual battery-powered units, to several interlinked mains-powered units with battery backup; if any unit detects smoke, all trigger even in the absence of electricity.

Function
Smoke detectors protect people by notifying them of fire in the home, especially when people are sleeping. They usually provide an audible alarm, and some have a visual alarm consisting of a flashing light.

Ionization Type Detectors

An ionization smoke detector uses a radioisotope, typically americium-241, to ionize air; a difference due to smoke is detected and an alarm is generated. Ionization detectors are more sensitive to the flaming stage of fires than optical detectors, while optical detectors are more sensitive to fires in the early smoldering stage.

The smoke detector has two ionization chambers, one open to the air, and a reference chamber which does not allow the entry of particles. The radioactive source emits alpha particles into both chambers, which ionizes some air molecules. There is a potential difference (voltage) between pairs of electrodes in the chambers; the electrical charge on the ions allows anelectric current to flow. The currents in both chambers should be the same as they are equally affected by air pressure, temperature, and the ageing of the source. If any smoke particles enter the open chamber, some of the ions will attach to the particles and not be available to carry the current in that chamber. An electronic circuit detects that a current difference has developed between the open and sealed chambers, and sounds the alarm.[15] The circuitry also monitors the battery used to supply or back up power, and sounds an intermittent warning when it nears exhaustion. A user-operated test button simulates an imbalance between the ionization chambers, and sounds the alarm if and only if power supply, electronics, and alarm device are functional. The current draw of an ionization smoke detector is low enough for a small battery used as sole or backup power supply to be able to provide power for months or years without the need for external wiring.

Carbon Dioxide Detectors

Carbon monoxide sensors detect potentially fatal concentrations of carbon monoxide gas, which may build up due to faulty ventilation where there are combustion appliances such as heaters and cookers, although there is no uncontrolled fire outwith the appliance.

High levels of carbon dioxide (CO2) may indicate a fire, and can be detected by a carbon dioxide sensor. Such sensors are often used to measure levels of CO2 which may be undesirable but not indicative of a fire; this type of sensor can also be used to detect and warn of the much higher levels generated by a fire. One manufacturer says that detectors based on CO2 levels are the fastest fire indicators, and also, unlike ionization and optical detectors, detect fires that do not generate smoke, such as those fueled by alcohol or gasoline. CO2 fire detectors are not susceptible to false alarms due to particles, making them particularly suitable for use in dusty and dirty environments.

Photoelectric Detectors
Photoelectric detectors have a small light source that normally misses a sensor that is set up out of the target area. Smoke particles deflect the light onto the sensor, creating an alarm. Photoelectric detectors are good at sensing smoky fires.

Not Heat Detectors
Smoke detectors are not heat detectors. High temperatures will not trigger smoke detectors.

Power Source
Smoke detectors require an electric power source from a battery, house voltage, or both. Batteries may be conventional alkaline type that last one to two years, or lithium type that can last 10 years. Battery powered detectors typically have a power indicator light that is permanently on or flashes intermittently. Most units emit a loud chirping sound every few seconds when the battery is low.

120 Volt Systems
Many authorities insist on smoke detectors powered by the house electrical system. These detectors don’t need batteries changed and can be connected to any junction box, like a light fixture. Smoke detectors are not usually on a dedicated circuit, but detectors should never be on a switched part of a circuit, so that they don’t get turned off accidentally.

Battery Backup
Some detectors operate on house power but have battery backup systems. The thinking is that a fire, especially if it’s electrical, may cut power to the detector before it can sound an alarm.

Interconnected Detectors
Many jurisdictions call for smoke detectors to be interconnected, so if one senses smoke, all will sound an alarm. This desirable arrangement is typically only found on newer homes. The interconnection most often uses conventional 120 volt house wiring (typically with 14 gauge, 3-conductor wire), but some are on a low voltage system.

Location
Smoke detector location is a somewhat controversial issue. Everyone agrees there should be at least one detector in each home. There is also agreement that the detector should be near the sleeping area. Some say there should be aPlacing Your Smoke Detectors detector on every level of the home with sleeping quarters. Others say there should be a detector on every floor level, regardless.

Detectors In Bedrooms?
Some say there should also be detectors in bedrooms, rather than just in the hall ways. This protects people sleeping from a fire that starts in the bedroom. This is particularly helpful if the door is closed, because a detector in the hall may not sound quickly enough to save the person in the bedroom. One other recommendation is to ensure the detectors near sleeping areas are between the escape path and the bedrooms (not at the other end of the hall).

Humidity Can Cause False Alarms
Smoke detectors should not be in or adjacent to kitchens or bathrooms, since high humidity levels can cause false alarms.

Not In Corners
Smoke detectors should be installed on the ceiling because smoke rises. While some say on or near the ceiling, we prefer the detector to be away from wall /ceiling intersections, where dead air may delay activation. We prefer the detector to be near the middle of the room or hall width to help ensure early warning.

Testing Smoke Detectors

Test your smoke alarms regularly by pressing the test button or by using smoke from a smoldering incense stick.

Replace batteries regularly.  Install a new battery in each alarm at least once a year. All battery-operated smoke alarms are required to emit a warning sound, usually an intermittent “chirp” when the battery power is low. When warning chirp sounds, replace your battery immediately. Never wait. Change your batteries when you change your clocks in the spring and fall.  Smoke alarms do wear out, so if you think your alarms are more than 10 years old, replace them with new ones.  Newer smoke detectors start aan automatic dating mechanism as soon as activated.  Annoying chirping will start in 10 years so ensure you replace your parents or grandparents smoke detectors parior to the end of 10 year period to prevent getting a panic call in middle of night 🙂

Central Station Alarms
Some smoke detectors are connected to central station alarm monitoring facilities. These central stations will respond to an alarm, typically by phoning the home and then sending the fire department, if they don’t get an immediate response from the occupants. This kind of alarm connection typically has the detectors in the home interconnected. These monitored detectors are commonly found in homes with security systems.

Replacing Smoke Alarms

When you replace your smoke alarm you have to maintain the level of protection that was required at time your home was built.  If your smoke detectors are all inter-connected you have to maintain that standard of protection.  It is recommended that you take your old smoke alarm with you to ensure you buy the proper model.   For example you cannot replace a interconnected smoke alarm with a battery operated smoke alarm from Costco.

Hiring a WETT Certified Inspectorwett certified inspections

Most insurance companies now require a WETT Certified Inspection on any wood burning appliances prior to issuing a Home Insurance policy.  When you buy a new home or change insuarance companies be prepared to provide them with an Inspection Report from a WETT Certified Inspector.

WETT Inspection Barrie is available 7 days a week for your convenience.  Call Roger today  705-795-8255

Wett Certified for Over 15 Years

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Roger Frost
Certified Building Code Official
Certified Master Inspector

Phone: 705.795.8255
Email Roger

barrie home inspector

 

Inspection Areas

Alliston
Angus
Barrie
Innisfil
Orillia
Midland
Penetanguishene
Newmarket
Wasaga Beach

Certifications

Barrie Certified Master InspectorBarrie WETT Certified InspectionsOntario Building Officials AssociationNorth American Certified Home Inspectors

Wasaga Beach Home Inspector

The  Wasaga Beach Home Inspector

Roger Frost is a  Professional Certified Home Inspector who has over 20 years of residential inspection experience.  As a Certified Building Code Official Roger uses his knowledge of the Ontario Building Code  to assess your new home from roof to foundation.  He can also identify safety issues and will give a detailed report describing the current condition of the property at the time of the Home Inspection.
Roger will guide you step-by-step through any deficiencies found.  At the end of the inspection you will get a complete review of the inspection findings and will also be supplied with a computerized report

Certified Home Inspector for Wasaga Beach 

I encourage you to attend the Home Inspection or at least the final portion of the Home Inspection. This allows both of us to view any deficiencies and discuss appropriate actions to be taken to correct any items of concern.  Roger Frost personally guarantees that your Home Inspection will provide you with an objective, unbiased and detailed report based on the condition of the home at the time of inspection. The Home Inspection report will help you make a final purchase decision.  All  Home Inspections come with a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

A Home Inspection is the best way to protect yourself when buying a new home. Roger will evaluate and provide you with a report on the exterior and interior components of the home.  When inspecting your new property we use a lot of equipment and tools to ensure you will receive the best available home inspection.

List of Some of the Equipment Used for Home Inspection

Thermal Imaging Camera for infrared scanning of your entire home.Wasaga Beach Home Inspector

Moisture meter capable of detecting moisture in walls and ceilings.

3 ladders – 24 foot, articulating ladder, step ladder and telescoping ladder

Polarity electrical tester,  electrical load tester, camera, flash lights, drills, wrenches, screwdrivers, pry bars, shovels and humidity tester.

When choosing your home inspector in Wasaga Beach contact Roger Frost to receive an inspection by a Certified Master Inspector and who is also a Certified Building Code Official

Wasaga Beach is a town located on the shores of Georgian Bay in Simcoe County, Ontario, Canada. Wasaga is situated along the longest freshwater beach in the world, it is a popular summer tourist destination, located along the southern end of Georgian Bay, approximately two hours north of Toronto, and neighbors, to the west, the town of Collingwood. Wasaga Beach is situated along 14 kilometers (8.7 mi) of sandy beach on Nottawasaga Bay and the winding Nottawasaga River.

Because Wasaga Beach has homes that are built along Georgian Bay and also the Nottawasaga River,  local expertise is a very valuable asset for your home inspector.   As a long time inspector and former resident of Wasaga Beach Roger Frost can protect your financial investment when purchasing a property.

Free Thermal Imaging with Infrared Camera  Free thermal imaging

Free Thermal Imaging is also included with every home inspection.  Infrared scanning can find hidden moisture, areas of heat loss, missing insulation and over heating electrical fixtures or cables.

Money Back Guarantee –  Roger Frost  offers a 100% Money Back Guarantee which is cheerfully refunded if you are not happy with your Home inspection for any reason.  This guarantee is good for 30 days after you take possession of your home.

Call Roger today,  The Wasaga Beach Home Inspector today for your next purchase.  Cell Phone   705-795-8255

The Wasaga Beach Home Inspector  proudly serves clients in the Georgian Triangle area offering our exclusive home inspection services,infrared (IR) thermal imaging and mold & indoor air quality testing services to provide you with one of the most comprehensive, fully customize-able home inspection packages available on the market!

Call Roger at 705-795-8255  Or send Roger an email 

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Roger Frost
Certified Building Code Official
Certified Master Inspector

Phone: 705.795.8255
Email Roger

barrie home inspector

 

Inspection Areas

Alliston
Angus
Barrie
Innisfil
Orillia
Midland
Penetanguishene
Newmarket
Wasaga Beach

Certifications

Barrie Certified Master InspectorBarrie WETT Certified InspectionsOntario Building Officials AssociationNorth American Certified Home Inspectors

WETT Inspections in Barrie & Simcoe County

WETT Inspections in Barrie

We provide same day service to clients in Barrie and Area

If you require a Certified WETT Inspection of your Woodstove, Fireplace or Pellet stove
Call the Barrie WETT Inspector.

What is WETT ?   Wood Energy Technology Transfer is a Non-Profit education and training association dedicated to training individuals to perform a Certified Inspection of your Wood Burning appliance.

How Long is Wett Certified Inspection good for?   WETT Inc. has no time limits on the validity of your WETT Inspection report.  Your Home Insurance Company is the deciding factor and each company is different.   Some Insurance Companies will require a new WETT Certified Inspection when a home is purchased.  Many people are requested to obtain a new WETT inspection when changing Insurance Companies.   Check with your Insurance Company prior to changing to ensure your saving enough money to justify the cost of a WETT Inspection.

Some of the Items Checked during WETT Inspection

WETT Certified Inspections 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Smoke Chamber – checked for cleanliness and any openings or cracks.

Damper – checked for proper operation

Firebox – all seals and material are inspected for openings or damage

Hearth & Floor Protection –  Inspected and measured to ensure compliance

Flue Pipes & Venting – Correct installation and clearances verified

Clearances to Combustibles –  All required clearances are verified

Chimney Construction – All surfaces and supports are inspected

Rain caps – recommended for all clay flue chimney installations

Chimney Cap and Liner –  Inspected for cracks or missing mortar

Ensure your families “Peace of Mind” by having your “Wood Burning Appliance” inspected by a WETT Certified Inspector.

If you are purchasing a new home that has a Wood Burning Appliance you can take advantage of the Barrie Home Inspector’s discount of $150.00 when included as part of Home Inspection package.

That’s right!  Your WETT inspection is only $100.00 per appliance with Home Inspection package. Regular WETT Inspection fee is $250.00.

Visit the Barrie WETT Inspection website for useful information about installation or clearances required.

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Residential Wiring Risks

Residential Wiring Risks

Since the introduction of electricity in homes, circa. 1910, various electrical wiring methods have been used. The main types can be  grouped into five separate categories. All wiring types if installed and maintained correctly can be safe and conforming to electrical standards. However, if not installed or maintained correctly, each has potential risks.

1910–1950: “Knob and tube”

Knob and tube (K&T) wiring was installed in virtually all houses from 1920 to 1950.  It incorporated single conductors run along the sides of the wooden framing. The conductors were supported by ceramic knobs and insulated from contact with wooden joists by ceramic tubes. Electrical splices (wire to wire connections) were done in free air, soldered and covered with insulating tape. The conductors were covered in flame-retardant cloth impregnated with rubber. The conductor quality was excellent, consisting of heavy gauge copper wire with a minimal number of soldered connections enroute to receptacles and lights. However there was no ground conductor. Thus the receptacles of knob-and-tube circuits were not grounded.

Risk in modern homes:

The safety concerns of knob-and-tube wiring are due to alterations or modifications of the original wiring.

  • UNGROUNDED RECEPTACLES: Original 2-prong ungrounded receptacles have often been exchanged for modern 3-prong receptacles, giving false impression of ground protection.
  • POOR CONNECTIONS: To meet the house electrical requirements, circuits are often found tapped to the knob-and-tube, likely done by the homeowner or persons not qualified as residential electricians. These add-on circuits can be most dangerous, resulting in hot-spots at the added connections.
  • INSULATION BREAKDOWN: If there has been “overfusing” (overrated fuses or breakers installed on the circuits) there can be insulation breakdown, as overfusing combined with overloading the circuits significantly raises the temperature of the conductors beyond their designed temperature limits, resulting in a fire hazard.

Inspection procedure:

An ESA inspection or a Master Electrician will check all of these above concerns to determine if the wiring is acceptable. Receptacles are inspected to assure that they are the correct type. The quality of the connections is determined by “voltage-drop testing” (an accurate method to determine if there are any poor connections enroute to the receptacles). The panels are checked for any signs of overfusing and the insulation is checked. If any of the above are found to be deficient, the knob-and-tube circuit is not acceptable and repairs are identified.

1950–1962: Ungrounded twin-conductor cable, NMD 1

Twin-conductor cable replaced knob-and tube in early 1950s due to ease of installation. Contained two insulated conductors wrapped in paper and black tar-based cloth casing. Originally contained no ground wire (NMD1), thus the receptacles were not grounded. The insulation temperature rating of this cable was 60°C. Grounded receptacles were not required until 1962.

Risk in modern homes:

As with knob-&-tube circuits, original 2-prong ungrounded receptacles have often been exchanged for modern 3-prong receptacles, giving false impression of ground protection. This is an easy check and an easy repair. Ground-fault circuit interruption (GFCI) receptacles or breakers can be installed, providing 3-prong receptacles with ground protection. Most insurance companies will not insure a home with Knob and Tube wiring.

1962–1984: Grounded twin-conductor cable, NMD 3 & 6

Ground conductors were required in residential cables in 1962. NMD 3 was introduced containing a ground conductor. Homes were now wired with modern, 3-prong outlets. As with NMD1, NMD3 had an insulation temperature rating of 60°C. Later NMD6 was introduced with an increased temperature rating of 75°C.

Risk in modern homes:

Many modern fixtures generate considerable heat inside the enclosure, particularly recessed lighting fixtures (pot light). A number of fires have been reported in these fixtures as a result of cables with low temperature rating. Since 1984 the electrical code requires that all ceiling fixtures be wired with a cable rated at 90°C. Cables rated at 60°C and 75°C are not suitable for modern fixtures. The house should be checked to confirm that these older cables are not used for modern lighting.

1965–1974: Aluminum branch circuit wiring.

Installed in the vast majority of homes during this period. Provided an inexpensive solution to escalated price of copper at that time.

Risk in Aluminum Wiring Connections:

Loose connections where aluminum meets copper have shown to develop over time. This results in very hazardous conditions, which often lead to fire. US Consumer Product Safety Commission reports that aluminum-wired homes are 55 times more likely to have one or more connections reach “Fire Hazard Conditions” than homes wired with copper only. The concern is not the cable, but the aluminum-copper connections.  Many insurance companies will not insure homes with ESA.  Some may require an ESA inspection prior to insuring property.

Inspection procedure:

The Electrical Safety Authority has received an increasing number of questions about the safety of aluminum wiring. In particular, purchasers or owners of homes built from the mid 1960’s until the late 1970’s with aluminum wiring are finding that many insurers will not provide or renew insurance coverage on such properties unless the wiring is inspected and repaired or replaced as necessary and this work is inspected by ESA and a copy of the certificate of inspection is provided to the insurer. In some cases the insurer may require replacement of the aluminum wiring with copper wiring. Check with your insurance company for their requirements.

1984–Present: Modern NMD90 cable

The primary cable used today for the wiring of homes is NMD90 (formerly NMD7). Modern NMD90 cable contains two conductors and a ground enclosed in a PVC jacket. It is an excellent all-round indoor cable suitable for modern lighting. It has an insulation temperature rating of 90°C.

Risk in using Wrong Types of Cables:

The cable is designed for home wiring in dry locations only. Not designed for outdoor, underground or wet locations. The home should be checked to confirm that it has not been installed in incorrect locations.

There are always Consumer Alerts for various products, fixtures or failures of items.  Read our Consumer Alerts Page

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DIY Electrical Problems in Home 

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WETT – Wood Energy Thermal Technology

Wood Energy Technology Transfer Inc. (WETT)

is a non-profit training and education association that promotes the safe and effective use of wood burning systems in Canada. With the cost of heating fuel climbing ever higher, more and more people are choosing wood burning systems to heat their homes. While this method offers a less expensive alternative to electrical and gas powered systems, it also poses a greater risk of fire. If your home or business is currently heated completely or partially by a wood burning device it is a good idea to have your system inspected by a certified WETT technician.

A WETT inspection involves examining the appliance for certification by a certified product testing company and confirming that all clearance requirements are met. If the unit is not certified the requirements are more stringent. A WETT inspection will verify the condition of the appliance, proper installation, appropriate ventilation, CSA certification (if any), approved chimney type and installation.

Before arranging for a Certified WETT Inspection there are some basic items you can check prior to calling for an inspection.  You can also call prior to inspection for any information you may require.  Call Roger at 705-795-8255

Fireplace 

  • Check the firebox for cracked firebricks or lining material. Replace any cracked firebricks to keep the firebox in good shape and prevent overheating which can warp steel components and turn the unit into scrap.
  • Check the operation of the damper. Quite often dampers are seized or broken which can lead to unsafe or poor operating conditions.
  • For masonry chimneys, replace any deteriorated or spalling masonry and caulk flashings as needed.
  • Ensure rain caps are present to prevent water leakage inside chimneys and their liners.
  • Clean the unit so a proper inspection can be performed.

Woodstove

  • Visually check the firebox for any cracked firebricks, replace cracked firebricks to ensure the firebox is sound and prevent overheating which can warp steel, crack welds and destroy your woodstove
  • Ensure flue pipes are properly secured with three screws per pipe connection or equivalent pipe clamps installed as per mfg. specs. Ensure the pipe fittings are oriented correctly and the pipe is also sloped correctly.
  • Check the damper operation, door gasket for deterioration and the door glass for cracking.
  • Ensure any heat shielding is secured and in good condition.
  • Keep wood storage and combustible materials at least 4 feet away from the wood stove in all directions at ALL times.

Floor Protection

There are two aspects to floor protection: thermal protection – protecting the floor from radiant heat from the bottom of the stove – and ember protection. For ember

Typical Floor Pad Layout

protection, you need to have continuous, non-combustible flooring under your appliance, extending 8” beyond it at the rear and sides and extending 18” in front of the wood loading door. Continuous means there can be no cracks where embers could get down to combustible material. So, patio stones or bricks won’t work unless you grout between them. If you have a certified appliance, you don’t need to worry about thermal protection. The legs are designed to be long enough to keep the firebox far enough from the floor that the floor won’t get too hot. If you have an uncertified appliance, you will need to have additional thermal protection under the stove.

Flue Pipes

The flue pipe is the pipe that connects the appliance to the chimney. Measure the distance between the pipe and any combustible construction. Required clearance around the standard single wall flue pipe is 18”. Double wall flue pipes have a sticker stating the required clearance (usually 6”).

Installation Guidelines from Woodheat.org

  1. Maximum overall length of straight pipe: 3 m (10 ft.) Typical Chimney Installation
  2. The assembly should be as short and direct as possible between the stove and chimney. The use of two 45 degree elbows is often preferable to a single 90 degree elbow because less turbulence is created in the exhaust flow and they result in less horizontal run.
  3. Maximum number of 90-degree elbows: 2. Maximum unsupported horizontal length: 1 m (3 feet).
  4. Galvanized flue pipes must not be used because the coatings vaporize at high temperatures and release dangerous gases. Use black painted flue pipes.
  5. 6-, 7-, and 8-inch diameter flue pipes must be at least 24 gauge in thickness.
  6. Flue pipe joints should overlap 30 mm (1 1/4 in.)
  7. Each joint in the assembly must be fastened with at least three screws.
  8. The assembly must have allowance for expansion: elbows in assemblies allow for expansion; straight assemblies should include an inspection wrap with one end unfastened, or a telescopic section.
  9. Minimum upward slope towards the chimney: 20 mm/m (1/4 in/ft.).
  10. One end of the assembly must be securely fastened to the flue collar with 3 sheet metal screws and the other end securely fastened to the chimney.
  11. There must be provision for cleaning of the pipes, either through a clean out or by removal of the pipe assembly. Removal of the assembly should not require that the stove be moved.
  12. The crimped ends (male) of the sections must be oriented towards the appliance so that falling dust and condensation stay inside the pipe.
  13. A flue pipe must never pass through a combustible floor or ceiling or through an attic, roof space, closet or concealed space.
  14. Minimum clearance from combustible material: 450 mm (18 in.). The minimum clearance may be reduced by 50 percent to 225 mm (9 in.) if suitable shielding is installed either on the pipe or on the combustible surface.

Don’t put your family’s safety at risk. Maintain wood heat safety requirements by education and proper installation.

Call Roger at 705-795-8255 for your Certified WETT Inspection

Email Roger  for appointments or questions

WETT Inspection Information
Barrie WETT Inspections
WETT Inspection Services

We provide WETT inspections to Angus, Alliston, Barrie, Bradford, Brechin, Collingwood, Everett, Innisfil, Lisle, Midland, New Lowell, Orillia, Penetang, Ramara, Stayner, anywhere in Simcoe County.

A WETT Certified Inspection is only $75.00 when included as part of Home Inspection.

Wood Repair for your Home

Wood repair for your home – Windows, Doors and Cladding

If you have exposed wood on your house, eventually you will probably experience some degree of wood rot.  Wood only needs warmth and moisture to begin turning into a deteriorated mess.  As a home owner you should check any horizontal areas which may collect water with an awl or metal probe.

Even a well-maintained home can develop problems with rot. Rot is caused by wood absorbing water, and there are a wide variety of causes, such as poor circulation, poor drainage or improper sealing.  If you have rotted wood, be aware that it has to be repaired or replaced to prevent water, air and/or bug infiltration into your home. Wood trim in Ontario should be cleaned, caulked and re-painted every four to eight years depending on its condition.  If the wood is not painted regularly, the paint will fail and the wood will not have any barrier to the elements and will soak up water. If it’s not regularly painted, then you can “pay me now or pay me a lot more later.”

There are many methods of repairing rotted wood surfaces.  The number one priority is to remove all rotted wood with a sharp tool ensuring no soft wood is remaining.  Failing to remove rotted wood can lead to rot continuing to damage remaining wood under repair.

There are many products available to repair rotted wood on the exterior of your home..  Some of the more popular methods are covered below:

One common repair method is using a polyester filler which can be shaped and moulded to fill removed areas of rotted wood.  Sanding can match existing  profiles and paint will make repair look like new.

Epoxy fillers are a structural adhesive putty and wood replacement compounds. They are a high-strength no-shrink adhesive paste to fill, repair and replace wood and other materials in structures, walls, floors, furniture, sculptures. They are unaffected by water and insects.  . Epoxies must be mixed with their catalyst to become chemically active, so you have a limited amount of time to work with epoxy before it begins to harden. Heat makes epoxy cure faster, so you should take the weather into account when making repairs.

Wood Trim Repair

Interior surfaces made from wood need to be kept clean at all times to prevent damage. Fixing problems such as dings, cracks, and scratches on wood trim can be a simple task. If part of the surfaces seems to be seriously damaged, you may want to consider replacing the trim rather than repair. Otherwise, you can hide or cover up gouges and minor scratches with the right materials. But first, you have to clean the surface to get rid of the grime and grease.

You can repair wood surfaces with epoxy filler or wood putty, depending on the extent of the damage. Use epoxy filler if the damage is extensive. For cracks and dents in your trim molding, you can use wood putty. Soft wood putty is perfect for filling holes left by screws and nails, and it’s easy to apply. All you have to do is fill the putty into the damaged area and wipe off with your finger. You don’t even have to sand it.

Clean the area to be repaired to remove any grease and dirt. Use masking tape to protect your walls. Using fine grit sand paper, sand off any raised edges or splinters. Next, apply wood filler over the damaged area. If using wood putty, it will shrink as it dries and any excess can be sanded off after it dries. Allow it to dry completely overnight. If using epoxy, be as precise as possible and be careful not to use too much as it will not shrink and is more difficult to sand. After it has dried, sand it smooth and clean off the dust. If you are painting it, apply primer first, then paint.

How Long will your Home Last?

Tips on Staining your homes Deck.

Some homeowners are using Fake Grass

When buying an older home with exposed wood trim protect yourself and your investment by having your property inspected by Barrie Home Inspections

Bremont Homes – Tarion Warranty

Bremont Homes Defies Tarion Home Warranty Program

Bremont Homes are currently building new homes in Innisfil – called the Forest Edge in Innisfil.  This September I was contacted by a new home buyer to accompany him for his Pre-Delivery Inspection.  You can imagine my surprise when I pulled up to the building site in Innisfil and the Bremont Homes representative, who was standing outside the home,  smiled and “wagged his finger at me”  indicating I would not be allowed to do the inspection.  This was confirmed by my client, who had been inside the home when I arrived.  He told me that the Bremont Customer Service person he had been dealing with could not make the appointment and the “Bremont Representative” would  not allow him to have a “home Inspector” present for his PDI inspection.

The Tarion website is very specific about allowing “home inspector’s” to attend the PDI inspection.   This is a direct quote from their website, “The minimum customer service standard allows a purchaser to attend the PDI with a designate or appoint a designate to attend the PDI in his/her place.  There is no restriction as to who the designate may be, so a professional home inspector or any other person is permitted to attend the PDI either with the purchaser or in their place as a designate”    You can visit website here.

In this day and age it boggles the mind that any company who has any consideration for their customers would prevent them from enjoying their rights under the Tarion warranty program.  Doing a quick search about Bremont Homes on the internet resulted in an article about problems with zoning,draft plans and “mistakes” in tree cutting.  You can read article here.

If you are thinking of buying a new home,  you might consider the consideration this particular builder has shown his client when denying his entitlement to have a “professional home inspector” present for the Pre-deliver Inspection.  I did another PDI inspection a week previous in Innisfil and found two very surprising items, considering it was a brand new home.  One was the electrical panel had been installed too high and the second was the sump pump did not have a air barrier as required.  There were many more items noted, but how many home owners would be aware of these deficiencies?

This particular client is hiring me to inspect his home as soon as he gets possession, and if I can obtain his permission, I will update this article with a list of deficiencies so you can understand the importance of having a professional to look after your interests when buying a new home.

Always Remember:  Caveat Emptor –  Buyer Beware

There are many groups who are petitioning the Ontario Government to have Tarion held accountable to the Ontario Ombudsman.  Hopefully this will eventually happen which would be a “big win” for new home buyers.   Read one site dedicated to providing information on “Home Construction”>

When purchasing a new home and booking a Tarion Pre-Delivery Inspection – protect yourself and your investment by call the Barrie Home Inspection Service.

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Mould in Your Home

Electrical Issues in Your Home

Fire Prevention in Your Home

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Animals and Rodents in Your Home

Medical Marijuana Building Inspections

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Alliston Home Inspections

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Roger Frost
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Phone: 705.795.8255
Email Roger

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Lipstick on a Pig

Buying a New Home – Beware of Lipstick on a Pig

Many people buy a home with the intention of “Flipping” it for a quick profit. I like to call these homes, “Lipstick on a Pig”. When you look behind the Lipstick this is what I have found while inspecting these “Great Deals”.

Even after spending over 10 years as a Professional Home Inspector I am still amazed at what people will do to a home.

I have put together some interesting pictures of deficiencies encountered over the years. You might find some of them funny, but an unsuspecting home buyer could be devastated to have to fix someone else’s mistake and also pay for the repair.

This is a floor joist which is located under a bathroom. There is no support for this section of floor and there is noticeable sagging in floor in front of toilet. Obliviously the home owner never got a building permit to install the bathroom.

Putting a header across from the two supported joists would have been an easy fix for this problem.

This rotted joist which is supporting the balcony is cantilevered from house.  The only repair for this problem would be to install supporting deck posts and replace all the rotted floor joists.

A building permit would be required to repair this deck as it involves structural design and construction.

This older building has asbestos insulation on galvanized pipes.  This is a double whammy as Asbestos can be difficult and expensive to have removed as it is a Class 2 Hazard, and many insurance companies will not insure a building with galvanized pipes installed.  Some homes will have all visible traces removed with only the hard to access areas still contaminated.

This is an old cast iron boiler that is covered with asbestos.  The home owner decided to cover it with plastic and leave it in the basement.  Home buyer would have to have asbestos removed from boiler and then hire some one to cut it into removable sized pieces.  At one time the subject property was listed for sale at over a million dollars.

Where is the disconnect ?

At first glance this electrical panel looks normal enough.  Further investigation would reveal that contractor connected panel directly to meter,  there is no disconnect.  This will be an expensive repair and if ESA found out your hydro would be disconnected.  I believe this house was being sold “as is” by a local contractor.

This picture shows an electrical cable inserted in the same hole as copper plumbing line.  This provides a possibility of energising your entire plumbing system if short occurs or if insulation has been compromised.  This type of installation provides a warning to quality of workmanship for project.  Also it indicates no permit was taken out or final inspection done.

The Realtor at this inspection pointed out that support beam for basement had been cut to install stairs.  Not only was area of stairs compromised but entire floor was now at risk as contractor never even added support posts where beam was removed.   Imagine the cost of adding supports around stairwell and repairing cut beam.

Many older homes had galvanized plumbing installed prior to the 60’s.  With a life expectancy of 50 years you can understand why some insurance companies will not insure a home with galvanized plumbing installed.  Some home owners change the easily accessible galvanized to copper but leave the hard to access galvanized pipe in place.

Realtor’s hate to hear the word “Vermiculite Insulation”, many times it contains asbestos and can be very expensive to remove. This house had the added bonus of having charred rafters and roof boards.  As always when buying a home it is “Caveat Emptor,  Buyer Beware”.

When you are purchasing a new home, for your family or for an investment, contact the Barrie Property Inspection Service to ensure your not wasting your money.

Home Inspection Certification

Home Inspector Licensing

The Ontario Government is promising to introduce legislation this fall to require licensing for “HOME INSPECTORS“.  The initial legislation to license home inspectors was lost when the Ontario Government decided to Prorogue parliament causing any pending legislation to be discarded.  The Ontario Government has stated that they will re-introduce Home Inspector licensing this fall, hopefully the eventual licencing of home inspectors will be completed in a timely manner.   Many groups and organizations have invested time and resources to ensure a comprehensive level of qualifications will be required to obtain a Home Inspection License.

Currently it is proposed that an Independent Administrative Authority would be created to establish to enforce the legislation and any required elements. This will ensure a minimum standard is set for home inspection reports, wording of contracts, inspection performance and any disclosures required.  Although no mention has been made of the relationship between home inspectors and real estate agents, hopefully they will address any issues related to Realtors trying to influence the home inspection process.

The home buyer will benefit from a standardized inspection process by someone who has the required qualifications and training to perform a professional home inspection. When a home buyer is making such a large financial decision it is only fair that he can rely on the expertise of the person hired to inspect his home.  Inspecting a home involves some expensive items such as roofs, electrical wiring, plumbing, structure and foundation inspections.

Understanding the knowledge a professional home inspector requires is a good first step to knowing who you should hire to inspect your property.  To be a knowledgeable and professional home inspector you must be a fully trained Certified Barrie Home Inspector generalist and able to understand how the building systems/components found in a home perform and wear out over time. These systems include items such as: structural components, exterior components, roofing, plumbing, electrical, heating, air conditioning, interior, insulation and ventilation. That’s why it’s so important to receive proper training/education and continue your education to stay abreast of the continuing changes in building requirements.  The Ontario Building Code will usually have a major update of building codes every five years and some yearly changes, all which can affect the results of your home inspection.   Is your home inspector up to date on his training and knowledge ?

After 4 years of Home Inspection licensing in B.C. the president of CAHPI had this to say about the affect of licensing on their home inspection industry:

“Therefore, under-trained and under-qualified individuals were being supplied with B.C. licenses, and able to enter people’s homes and provide assessments on a condo, a house, or a property, so long as they promised to get training and education at some future date. The shame is that the very people that B.C. government licensing was supposed to protect consumers from were being licensed through a loophole in the licensing regulation that has now allowed yet another out of province licensing body.”

We can only hope that Ontario has taken heed of the problems that B.C. and other provinces have encountered and avoid the same mistakes when setting up Ontario’s licensing process.  I think everyone always views Government Intervention with some trepidation,  we know the costs of home inspections will go up due to added government fees and possible new membership requirements.  Hopefully the newly created Home Inspection Board will come under the watchful eye of the Ontario Ombudsman, which will definitely bring some transparency to the process and ensure a level playing field for all.

The home buyer will end up being the “winner” if this process works,  and everyone should work hard to ensure the home buyer and his investment is always protected.

For any information regarding home inspections please contact The Barrie Home Inspector

Barrie Home Inspections Professional Training & Qualifications

Free Thermal Imaging with every Home Inspection

We can only hope that Doug Ford, as the new premier of Ontario will move this valuable consumer protection legislation forward.  Ford failed to do this.

The latest update is that the Provincial Government will run licensing but the Home Inspection industry will have to pick up 100% of the costs.  Initial estimates put the Licensing Fee at around $2,300.00 per inspector if they all join.   Unfortunately this is not realistic as Government always increases staff and costs while doing any administrative duties.   Hair dressers for example had their licensing fees TRIPLE  about 5  years ago,  and that is just to obtain a Certificate.

Landscaping Tips

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Home
About Us
Home Inspections
Infrared Inspections
WETT Inspections
Helpful Resources
Contact Information
Asbestos Testing
Air Quality Testing
Century Home Inspections
Commercial Building Inspections

Contact Information

Roger Frost
Certified Building Code Official
Certified Master Inspector

Phone: 705.795.8255
Email Roger

barrie home inspector

 

Inspection Areas

Alliston
Angus
Barrie
Innisfil
Orillia
Midland
Penetanguishene
Newmarket
Wasaga Beach

Certifications

Barrie Certified Master InspectorBarrie WETT Certified InspectionsOntario Building Officials AssociationNorth American Certified Home Inspectors

Why You Need a Home Inspection

Do I really need to spend money on having a Home Inspection?  This is the question so many home buyers ask themselves and have a hard time understanding.  A Professional Home inspection will identify issues and deficiencies with a home that may otherwise go unnoticed.  As a home owner and property manager for numerous rental units, one thing stands out about deficiencies, “They Never Get Better”, a small maintenance item that may cost $25.00 now, could end up costing you hundreds of dollars later if not repaired.

Do I Have to Attend the Home Inspection?  Yes, if at all possible attend the home inspection.  This will be opportunity to become educated about your home and its major systems.  As a Certified Building Code Official the Barrie Home Inspector can provide valuable advice and point out deficiencies, explaining their importance and any recommendations for repair.

Is There a Pass or Fail of a Home Inspection?  No, there is no such “bench mark” which can be given to any home.   A home inspection points out existing deficiencies and any potential expenses, such as roof life expectancy or remaining life for your gas furnace for example.  Every person has a different view point on each and every item covered by a home inspection.  For a professional inspector to impose his point of view to a client would be very unprofessional.  The home inspection identifies the major and minor deficiencies in a home, the inspector will provide professional information about the issues but in the end it is the buyer’s choice whether to buy the property after being informed about the overall condition of the home.

Home Inspection Waiver – Typically home owners will have from 5 to 10 days to have a home inspection on the home they are purchasing.  This contingency provides that if conditions are found during the home inspection that are significant, you can back out of your offer free of any penalties.  In a Seller’s Market sometimes conditions are waived by buyers when facing a “bidding war” on a property they want to purchase.

Importance of Building Permits – Many basement renovations, bathroom additions and decks are built without obtaining the proper permits.  If you purchase a home which has had renovations done without a permit you will assume responsibility for this work by default.  The purpose of obtaining a building permit is to have qualified person inspect important aspects of work prior to being covered up.  Some of the more important inspections are:  electrical, plumbing, structural, framing, insulation and heating.  Failure to have these done can allow important deficiencies to go unnoticed until something occurs which could result in considerable expense to home owner.

Qualifications – The Barrie Home inspector has the following qualifications which enable a professional detailed inspection of your prospective property;

  • Certified Building Code Official with the Ontario Building Officials Association of Ontario
  • Certified Master Inspector
  • Member of North American Certified Home Inspectors
  • Member of National Association of Commercial Building Inspectors
  • WETT Certified
  • Completed both Part 9 and Part 3 requirements of Ontario Building Code
  • Over 5,000 home inspections completed with over 10 years of experience
  • Free Thermal Imaging inspection included with every Home Inspection

We provide Home Inspection service 7 days a week and cover most of Simcoe County.

Call Roger at 705-795-8255 or Toll Free at 888-818-8608 to discuss your next home purchase.