Power Line Clearances. The Canadian Electrical Code Part I gives electrical utilities an exemption from the code for “installations and equipment in its exercise as a utility, located outdoors or in buildings or sections of buildings used for that purpose.” The CEC Part I is “a voluntary code for adoption and enforcement by regulatory authorities.” When adopted into the provincial regulations, this exemption is almost always maintained for work that falls within the scope of an electrical utility’s business.
Over time, many electrical utilities have either developed their own design standards or use standards developed by others. Two CSA standards are often used as authoritative references for utility installations. These are CAN/CSA-C22.3 No. 1- M87 Overhead Systems and C22.3 No. 7-94 Underground Systems. In some instances, utility standards may meet or exceed electrical code requirements, or they may also fall short. One would hope that utility standards should satisfy minimum electrical safety requirements, especially for installations on private property.
In a brave new world of less regulation and greater competition, electrical utilities may want to take a closer look at their own design standards, to determine whether they should conform with the Canadian Electrical Code. In this article, we will look at some examples where the CEC Part III standards fail to meet the minimum safety requirements of the CEC Part I, and visit another issue that might affect electrical utilities as changes evolve.
Let’s begin by comparing some of the differences in high low and high voltage clearances. I will refer to the Canadian Electrical Code as CEC Part I and the CSA Part III overhead standards as CEC Part III. Both prescribe minimum horizontal and vertical clearances for a broad range of voltage classifications. As an aside, there are a few instances where the CEC Part I actually references CEC Part III when an installation strays beyond the parameters set out in the code. As a result, some paragraphs of CEC Part III actually become requirements of our electrical code.
For our first example, CEC Part I specifies a minimum vertical clearance of 4.0 m for low voltage service conductors across a residential driveway. This increases to 5.0 m when crossing the driveway to a commercial or industrial facility. Using the same example, CEC
Part III would require minimum clearances of 3.7 m for low voltage service conductors across a residential driveway, and 4.42 m crossing the driveway to a commercial or industrial facility. Obviously, there is some disparity between the two standards.
CEC Part I specifies a minimum vertical outdoor clearance of 7.0 m for 46 kV exposed live parts such as cable terminations, fuseholders and switches, located outside a substation fence. CEC Part III has different requirements for areas accessible only to pedestrians and where there is also access by vehicles. The comparable 46 kV CEC Part III clearances would be:
• 3.7 m – where accessible only to pedestrians
• 5.2 m – where also accessible to vehicles
Here there appears to be a major difference between these standards for the elevation of high voltage exposed live parts.
Horizontal clearances between power lines and buildings is another place where there are differences. CEC Part I, requires a minimum 3 m horizontal distance between 46 kV lines and buildings (still far too close in this writer’s opinion). However, CEC Part III goes even further. Here the minimum horizontal distance between 46 kV lines and buildings is 1.0 m plus conductor swing to “a normally inaccessible surface” and 1.8 m plus conductor swing to a
“readily accessible surface.”
The CEC Part III definition of readily accessible is “that an object is accessible to persons without the use of special means” (for example, a ladder). The amount of conductor swing depends upon whether the line is considered to be sheltered from the wind. In the writer’s opinion, the horizontal clearances in both CEC Part I and Part III are both deficient.
However the CEC Part III requirements have a greater potential for problems and electrical accidents.
A further requirement of CEC Part I is calculating the 5000-volt maximum ground potential rise, and the step and touch voltages in substations. These are determined from the ground electrode resistance and the available ground-fault current. The first step normally involves ground resistivity measurement, then calculating the maximum step and touch potentials as specified in Table 52 of CEC Part I. Parameters for these calculations are found in the IEEE No. 80 substation grounding standard.
Ground potential rise can be calculated from station ground resistance and the available ground-fault current. Some electrical utilities are more interested in minimizing ground potential rise, since the GPR may affect any communications equipment installed in stations.
Step and touch potentials have also been identified as a safety issue and therefore should be considered as well.
For the reasons mentioned, electrical utility installations should comply with the Canadian Electrical Code Part I, particularly on customers’ property. As with previous articles, you should consult the electrical inspection authority in each province or territory as applicable, for a more precise interpretation of any of the above.
Always consult your local utility for their regulations regarding clearances or installation.
The Barrie Home Inspector has many more articles on electrical issues and regulations that would be of interest to most home owners.
Successful Mosquito Control. Mosquito control in your backyard is important because it can help you enjoy your yard and it can also prevent or minimize the occurrence of certain diseases. There are many options for controlling the growth of mosquito populations, from do it yourself products to hiring of professionals companies who can spray and treat area for mosquito control. Here are some tried and tested tips to protect yourself and your family and make your outdoor season more enjoyable.
When rain falls, water also accumulates in holes, low areas and swampy ground. Water can also collect in objects that have been left lying around and in municipal drainage holding areas. Look around the exterior of your house and the surrounding areas and correct any low lying areas or old containers which may be a potential breeding ground.
There are many approved products you can buy for use in reducing infestation of these insects. You can use a name brand repellent product or utilize spray type products to get rid of them for good. It is best to go out during times when they are the least active and avoid places which are known to harbor them in large numbers. Wear clothes that cover vulnerable areas of your body until you can safely destroy their habitat and breeding ground.
There are also certain animals that can help control the populations of these insects. These can be especially helpful if there are any stagnant water in near your home. Certain types of fishes for example will eat the larvae that may be present in the water. The efficacy of these organisms may vary so research first before introducing these organisms into the environment.
If you can minimize their access to the house, then you will certainly increase your comfort and safety. Use screens on your windows and avoid keeping the doors open. If all of these entry sites are covered with screens, then the insects will have no way of getting inside your home. Consider getting nets that have been treated with an insecticide, if you want more protection.
Insecticides can also be utilized by the homeowner to deal with a large population. Before you use these products however, check if there are requirements for usage and if the law allows such usage. Once purchased, read the instructions first so you know what to do and how to apply it. Prepare your equipment and do not forget to protect yourself while applying it.
If you have tried all the solutions you can think of but these insects are still bothering you, consider hiring professionals for the task. There are numerous companies who specialize in this particular area. One thing you should look for before hiring is a license. Confirm these by contacting the involved organization and making sure that it is current.
Find out what they intend to do to kill the existing population. There are many techniques and treatments that can be used for these kind of requests. Ask what products they will be using. Keep yourself informed by researching on these solutions and their effects. Determine which sites are going to be treated and how long the effects will last.
Mosquito magnets have a good reputation for controlling mosquitoes. They work on heat, smell and carbon dioxide to attract the mosquitoes and then destroy them with fan mechanism. This system works 24/7 and is effective in controlling their growth.
Doing Your Own Basement Waterproofing. Basements are a great space to enjoy for the whole family as long as there is no water problem. They can be a living space, amusement room, or storage space. Prior to enjoying the use of your basement or start any renovation or remodelling project, to enjoy any of those functions, it must be waterproof. Waterproofing prevents excessive indoor humidity that can result to a space that is damp, musky and unpleasant to occupy, and there is also the possible hazard to your health due to the mold or mildew growth. Excessive moisture can also affect the structural stability of your basement, wood will start rotting once it reaches 20% moisture level. Many homeowners prefer to attempt waterproofing their basement themselves to save money.
Can the average homeowner waterproof the basement without professional help? There are steps that you as a homeowner can do to to help waterproof your basement and prevent the infiltration of water and moisture. For example, make sure that the land surrounding your basement has adequate drainage away from structure for at least six feet. Also, to help with water drainage you should keep your downspouts and eaves clear of leaves and debris and ensure that discharge is directed away from home. However, these are not adequate as waterproofing strategies, they are only methods to reduce water build up around your foundation walls. Generally, to waterproof your basement effectively, you need to work with a professional.
Why employ a professional when waterproofing your basement?
Waterproofing is not a project that most homeowners have the knowledge, expertise or equipment for. It needs expertise, experience and a knowledge of various skills to successfully waterproof a basement. An trained and experience basement repair expert can also recognize with greater accuracy the problems that cause seepage and leakage into your basement. If you overlook the cause of the water problems you can waste money and time and may even make the problem worse. Quick fixes are never a lasting solution when it comes to wett basements. An expert can offer you long-term waterproofing solution and will back up his work with a written guarantee. Working with a professional can be more pricey than carrying out the project by yourself, but it will usually be worth the investment.
How to find a Water Proofing contractor
There is typically a large number basement-waterproofing contractors operating in your area, it can be somewhat a daunting task to choose which one to hire for your basement. The easiest way to hire a reliable contractors is by asking people you know, especially those who waterproofed their basement in recent years. Also, you may use Google or HomeStars to find contractors. Prices can fluctuate by quite a bit when comparing different waterproofing contractors, but make sure you don’t base your decision on price. Rather, you should look at their reputation and references when picking a waterproofing contractor. Last but not least, make sure that the one you’re going to hire has the required licenses and enough insurance coverage to compensate you if project goes awry.
Your Professional Home Inspector – Barrie Home Inspector will advise you of any water problems when you buy a new or existing home.
Maintenance Tips to Save You Money. Your Barrie ON home is one of the single biggest investments you’ll ever make in your lifetime, so be sure you do all you can to take care of it. A well-maintained home usually sells more readily and will usually bring a higher price when you go to sell your home. Regular maintenance also makes your home more comfortable and any regular care that you do put into it will minimize any unexpected repair work and expenses that could occur if your home was not maintained. Regularly scheduled small repairs and continuous upgrades to your home can and will keep any maintenance costs from becoming exorbitant.
The maintenance schedule that I’m presenting here is a general guide for you to simply follow. The actual timing is left up to you to decide when you want to actually perform the tasks. You may want to further divide the list of maintenance items for each season into months so that your everyday schedule will not become affected by this list of tasks. Now let’s get to work, so your home (and the components within your home) will last a lifetime.
WINTER
Clean or replace furnace air filters every other month during the heating season. Periodically check vents outside (intake and exhaust) to make sure they are not blocked by snow or debris. Then vacuum all heating supply registers, return grills, baseboards or radiators inside the home.
After consulting your hot water tank owner’s manual, carefully test the temperature and pressure relief valve to ensure it is not stuck. (Caution: This test may release hot water that can cause burns and it may also cause the valve to develop a slow leak due to sediment build-up not allowing the valve to close fully. This will require a plumber to replace the TPR valve). In some areas, sludge may accumulate in the bottom of the tank. Draining approximately 1 gallon of water from the clean-out spigot at the bottom of your tank will indicate the presence of sludge and the necessity for regular draining to control sediment and maintain efficiency. Be sure to shut off the power or fuel supply before draining any water from the tank.
Clean the humidifier (if equipped), two or three times during the winter season.
Vacuum bathroom fan grille or any other registers you may have in your home. I recommend removing the register grills and vacuuming inside the duct work, (as far as possible). Vacuum all fire and smoke detectors, as dust or spider webs can prevent them from functioning. Dust ceiling fan blades.
Vacuum radiator grilles on back of refrigerators and freezers, and empty and clean the drip tray underneath the refrigerator.
Check inside bathroom vanities and kitchen sink cabinets for signs of moisture. Look for leaks at shut-off valves at sinks, toilets, laundry equipment, and main water shut-off valve. Carefully inspect pipes for condensation or slow drips. Repair the plumbing system if necessary.
Remove mineral deposits from faucet aerators and shower heads by soaking the parts in white vinegar and scrubbing them with an old toothbrush.
Examine attic for frost accumulation. Check roof for ice dams or ice build-up. If either of these occur, this is a sign of inadequate insulation and/or ventilation.
Check electrical cords, plugs and outlets for all indoor and outdoor seasonal lights to ensure fire safety: if worn, or plugs or cords feel warm to the touch, replace immediately. Check the operation of all ground-fault circuit interrupter outlets by pushing the “test” button. The “reset” button should pop out, indicating the receptacle is operating properly. Press in the reset button. Check the AFCI circuit breakers inside the main panel. Press the test button to make sure it trips. Then reset.
FALL
Have all heating and cooling systems checked by a qualified service person once a year or according to the manufacturer’s warranty and service recommendations. Failure to do manufacturer-recommended servicing may void warranties.
FURNACE: Examine the forced air furnace fan belt for wear, looseness or noise; clean fan blades of any dirt buildup (after disconnecting the electricity to the motor). Then clean dirt and dust from around the air grills and ducts. Open furnace humidifier damper and clean humidifier (if equipped). Hire a licensed HVAC technician to inspect the thermostat, electrical components and controls, inspect the heat exchanger, check flue, air flow and air fuel mixture, adjust the burner and oil the motor and circulating fan. The exhaust pipe should be checked for loose or corroded sections. Have your ducts cleaned at least every 5 to 6 years, this keeps your furnace clean and will increase the life expectancy. Make sure the exposed ductwork have no cracks or leaks and seal seams (where needed) with aluminum tape.
BOILER: Bleed the air from hot water radiators. Older circulating pumps should be lubricated twice during the heating season. Expansion tanks should be drained annually. The heat shield (located where the burner enters the heat exchanger) should be checked to ensure that it is not loose or corroded. Burn marks around the heat shield or soot on the front may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A technician should be contacted.
OIL FURNACES AND BOILERS: Oil systems should be checked by a qualified technician on an annual basis. Oily soot deposits at registers of forced-air systems may indicate a cracked heat exchanger. A technician should be contacted. The exhaust pipe from the furnace or boiler should be checked for loose connections or corroded sections. The barometric damper on the exhaust pipe should rotate freely. The chimney clean out should be cleared of any debris. The oil tank should be inspected for leaks. Soot on the front of the furnace or boiler may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A technician should be contacted.
Paint interior rooms while it’s still warm enough to leave windows open. Ditto for shampooing or replacing carpets.
Remove window air-conditioning units and store them. If they are not removable, cover them with plastic to protect them over the winter.
Check smooth functioning of all windows and lubricate as required. For single pane widows, remove or replace all screens with storm windows. Examine all hardware and locks on windows and doors, and lubricate moving parts. Each exterior door should have a one-inch deadbolt lock for safety.
All yard care power equipment should be drained of fuel in the late fall or early winter and serviced according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Cover outdoor furniture or store it inside a shed.
Clean and repair garden equipment after the last use of the season. Remove dirt and rust, then store in dry area. Upcoming winter will be a good time to file rough spots on hoes and shovels and to apply linseed oil to handles of garden tools. Thoroughly rinse pesticide and herbicide sprayers to prevent clogging, and rinse fertilizer spreaders to prevent corrosion.
Drain and store outdoor hoses. Close the valve supplying the outdoor hose connection and drain the hose bib (exterior faucet), unless your house contains frost proof hose bibs.
Ensure that all smoke detectors, carbon monoxide detectors and fire extinguishers are in good working order. Replace batteries in appropriate devices as needed, or at least twice each year. Massachusetts regulations require detectors to be installed on every habitable level of your home and within 10 feet of any bedroom.
Check gauge on all fire extinguishers; recharge or replace if necessary.
Check fire escape routes, door and window locks and hardware, and lighting around outside of your house; ensure that your family has good security habits.
Again, Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water. Refill with water or oil if necessary.
Take care of known issues with pipes that freeze. Heat tape/wire can be used to keep them warm during extremely cold weather or insulate to improve freezing conditions.
Ensure that all doors to the outside shut tightly, and check other doors for ease of use. Renew door weatherstripping if required. If there is a door between your house and the garage, install or check the adjustment of the self-closing device to ensure it closes the door completely.
Disconnect the duct connected to the dryer and vacuum lint from duct, the areas surrounding your clothes dryer and your dryers’ vent hood outside.
Ensure that all windows and skylights close tightly. Remove screens from the inside of casement windows to allow air from the heating system to keep condensation off window glass.
Again, Clean leaves from eaves troughs (gutters) and roofs, and test downspouts to ensure proper drainage from the roof. Ensure that these downspouts carry all rain water away from the foundation area at least 5 feet. Downspout extensions will improve any basement seepage conditions.
Check chimneys for obstructions such as nests. Have your wood burning fireplaces and appliances inspected annually and cleaned/swept and repaired as required to prevent chimney fires and carbon monoxide poisoning.
SPRING
Celebrate spring by cleaning the garage. Hold a yard sale, or organize a community yard sale with neighbors. Dispose of paint thinners, household cleaners and pesticides properly. Contact your city’s department of public works to find out when the next scheduled collection of hazardous materials is.
Check and clean or replace furnace air filter.
Shut down and clean furnace humidifier (if applicable), and close the furnace humidifier damper, as this will not be needed until next heating season.
Have central air-conditioning unit checked according to the recommendations of the unit’s manufacturer or every two or three years. Replace the filter in the forced-air system. Clean debris and vegetation from the exterior condenser or heat pump.
Check dehumidifier and clean if necessary (if applicable).
Turn OFF gas furnace and fireplace pilot lights where possible.
Have well water tested for quality (if applicable). It is recommended that you test for bacteria every six months.
If you are on a Septic system, have it pumped and inspected.
Check smoke, carbon monoxide and security alarms and replace batteries.
Clean windows, screens and hardware, and replace storm windows with screens, if equipped with single pane windows. Check the windows for cracked or broken glass, loose putty around the glass panes, holes or bent frames in screens, and evidence of moisture between pane and storm windows. Clean out any slider door tracks and ensure that the drainage holes are clear.
Fix squeaks in floors and stairs by applying weight to the area (having a partner stand on it) and driving an 8d or 12d galvanized finish nail through the flooring into a floor joist or stringer. If you have access to the floor from underneath, glue and screw backs to the floor or treads and toenail through a floor joist or stringer.
Open valve to outside hose connection after all danger of frost has passed.
Examine the foundation walls for cracks, leaks or signs of moisture, and repair as required.
Check to make sure your sump pump works properly by pouring water into the pump silo to raise the float and activate the motor. Ensure discharge pipe is connected and allows water to drain away from the foundation and inspect the hose line for obstructions or visible leaks.
Re-level or repair any exterior steps or decks which moved or were damaged due to winter frost or settling.
Check for damaged or improperly sloped gutters. Clean out all gutters and downspouts. Make sure they are free from leaks and rust and ensure all spikes, straps and clips are tightly fastened. Seal any loose joints and seams. Make sure downspouts are not damaged and carry all roof water at least five feet away from the foundation. Downspout extensions will improve any basement seepage conditions.
Clear all drainage ditches and culverts of debris.
Undertake spring landscape maintenance and, if necessary, fertilize young trees.
SUMMER
Inspect window putty on the outside of glass (single panes) and replace if cracking or falling off.
Lubricate all door hinges and tighten screws as needed. Lubricate squeaky door hinges with lightweight machine oil. Free sticky doors by trimming edges or shimming hinges with thin pieces of cardboard.
Deep clean all carpets and rugs.
Check caulking around all sinks, bathtubs, and showers. Some types of caulking become brittle with age, and therefore useless as a water seal. Replace with a long-lasting resilient caulking material, such as silicone or latex.
Vacuum bathroom fan grille.
Monitor basement humidity and avoid relative humidity levels above 60 per cent. Use a dehumidifier to maintain safe relative humidity. Clean or replace air conditioning filter, and wash or replace ventilation system filters if necessary.
Inspect the crawl space or basement walls after rains for water accumulation or excessive moisture. Look for signs of water damage on the sub floor and joists beneath bathrooms, the kitchen and laundry. Find and fix leaks now or pay the price later.
Check basement pipes for condensation or dripping, and take corrective action, for example, reduce humidity and or fully insulate all accessible cold water pipes.
Examine main support beams, support columns, and floor joists for evidence of bowing or warping.
Probe visible wood structural members such as sills, joists, beams, and columns, with a screwdriver, pocket knife or ice pick, to be sure wood is solid and free from decay and wood boring insects.
Make sure all shut-offs are marked appropriately (heating, plumbing & electrical)
If you have a plumbing fixture that is not used frequently, for example, a laundry tub or spare bathroom sink, tub or shower stall, run some water briefly to keep water in the trap. This prevents sewer gases from entering the living area. You can use cooking oil to replace water, as it will not evaporate like water will.
Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water. Refill with water or oil if necessary.
Check security of all guardrails and handrails throughout house (interior and exterior). Install brackets or hardware if loose.
Lubricate garage door hardware and ensure that it is operating properly and lubricate the automatic garage door opener motor, chain, etc. and ensure that the auto-reverse mechanism is properly adjusted. Make sure all bolts and screws are properly tightened and secured. I highly recommend that every homeowner install an auto-closer on the hinges of the fire rated door between the garage and the house.
Check and replace damaged caulking and weatherstripping around all exterior windows and doors.
Inspect electrical service lines for secure attachment where they enter your house, and make sure there is no water leakage into the house along the electrical conduit. Check the seal at the house penetration area.
Ensure that the ground around your home slopes away from the foundation wall, so that rain water does not drain towards your basement walls. Soil should slope four to six inches for a distance of six feet out from the foundation walls.
Inspect masonry foundation walls (inside and out) for cracks or weakened, crumbling mortar. Repair if necessary. Also check for signs of termite mud tunnels.
Check exterior wood siding and trim for signs of deterioration such as peeling or cracked paint. Remove any wood/soil contact to prevent rot and wood boring insects. Clean, replace or refinish as needed. If you decide to repaint your house yourself, you can cut this job down to size by painting just one or two walls per year. Typically, the paint on the south and west-facing walls deteriorates faster and requires more frequent re-coating than paint on north or east-facing walls. Check for and seal off any holes in exterior cladding that could be an entry point for small pests such as bats, mice, squirrels and chipmunks.
Clean and seal decks. Ideally, you’ll need three consecutive warm, sunny days. On day one, dry out the deck. Apply deck cleaner and scrub the deck on the second day and let it dry 24 hours. On the third day, apply deck sealer.
Repair and paint all fences as required.
Remove or trim any plants, shrubs or vines that contact any house siding.
Climb up on your roof or use binoculars, to check its general condition and note any sagging that could indicate structural problems requiring further investigation from inside the attic. Note the condition of roofing material for possible repair or replacement, and examine all roof flashings such as at the chimney, roof joints, vent stacks, dormers and skylights for any signs of cracking or leakage.
Check the chimney cap and the mortar between all bricks. Tuck point between the bricks if necessary.
If you have access to attic spaces, check underneath the roof for stains that indicate leaks, especially from “flashed” areas. Tar these exterior flashing areas if necessary. Also, check all soffit vents to make sure insulation is pulled away from these areas. The attic area should always be the same temperature as the outside.
Trim back tree branches that scrape against or overhang the roof. Keep branches away from chimney to avoid fire hazard and allow proper draft for safe and efficient chimney operation.
Driveways and sidewalks should be checked for cracks and deterioration. Settling which will result in surface water run off towards the house should be corrected as should uneven sections which pose a safety hazard to pedestrians.
Clean and repair cracks in concrete driveways using epoxy patching material. Repair asphalt driveways using asphalt patching material. Seal asphalt driveways every other year.
Repair any hazards that present a safety problem.
Take pictures of every room in your house. Take special care to photograph any heirlooms or valuables. In the event of fire, flood or other disaster, it will be important in filing an insurance claim. Photographs or video of your possessions can also be helpful and help proof your claim. Store this in a safe place off site…maybe a relatives home or a bank safety deposit box.
You will also have the option of receiving Season appropriate email reminders describing specific maintenance steps that you should be taking in order to keep your home in top-notch condition. You simply choose the components of your home that need maintenance and a Seasonal email reminder will be sent to you accordingly.
You can review all of your current monthly scheduled maintenance items. And if you get really excited about maintenance and want to see future maintenance activities, you can select the desired month and it will show you all upcoming tasks.
Check back often to read more interesting home improvement articles from Home Inspector
Bathtub Plumbing Problems. As one of the most used plumbing fixtures in the home is the bathtub, a bathtub that has problems draining can annoy the whole family. Some of the more common problems with bathtub drains are hair, soapy sediment, and cleaning products that are blocking the drain. A clogged bathtub drain will affect everyone in the household. Fortunately, there are number of things a homeowner can do to clear a clogged bathtub drain.
The following is a list of tips to fixing a bathtub that that has an issue with its drain:
1. Most clogs start in the strainer. The first thing you can do is check the strainer on the drain if you have one. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws and clear out any accumulated hair and debris. Once complete, run the water to see if the problem is resolved.
2. You can use a plunger to unclog the bathtub. Fill the tub with water high enough so that the head of the plunger will be submerged in the water. Place the lip of the plunger head over the drain hole. Using forceful thrusts push on the plunger. Repeatedly plunge until you clear the clog and then run hot water through the drain to see if you cleared the clog and the water is continuously running through the pipes.
3. Pour a drain cleaner in the bathtub drain. There are chemical drain cleaners on the market, however, some cleaners are corrosive and can damage the pipes. There are natural drain cleaners on the market that will clear a clog without harming the septic system. You can also make a homemade drain cleaner that consists of pouring a half cup of white vinegar and a half cup of baking soda. If it is a tough clog, it may have to sit overnight. After sitting, run hot water through the plumbing system to clear out any loosened and broken up debris.
4. Using a manual snake is effective at clearing a stubborn bathtub drain clog. First, use a screwdriver to remove the screws that are securing the trip lever face plate. Pull the face plate forward (towards you) and take out the drain stop. Then, unscrew and take out the bathtub drain grate. Feed the snake with the auger head going in first. Feed the snake through the drain system until you reach the blockage. Manipulate the snake so that you are grasping and loosening the clog. Push the snake auger head through the clog. Then, retract the snake and pull the clog out. Once you have the clog removed, run the faucet with hot water to get rid of any remaining pieces of debris.
If you are unable to clean the drain yourself you will require the services of a professional plumber. You might have to have your drained cleaned with a roto router or even have it scoped to identify the problem.
When buying a new home in Barrie ON use a professional home inspector you can trust, call the Barrie Home inspector.
Perhaps no piece of equipment has changed the way energy professionals look at buildings more than the blower door. Over the past 15 years, entire diagnostic procedures have evolved around this relatively simple device that can make subtle, but measurable, changes in house pressures.
The blower door as we know and love it today springs from technology first used in Sweden in 1977, where it was actually a blower window. The idea migrated to the United States with Ake Blomsterberg, who came to Princeton University to do research in 1979. “We started using it because we were trying to understand infiltration,” says David Grimsrud, who was a researcher at Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory (LBNL) in Berkeley, California, at the time.
According to Grimsrud, the Princeton researchers decided to mount the fan in a door because door sizes are more uniform than windows. Ken Gadsby (who was and still is at Princeton) recalls that they based the height of the lower door panel on his inseam length! With the help of the blower door, the researchers discovered that hidden leaks accounted for a much greater proportion of air leakage in a home than the more obvious culprits, such as windows, doors, and electrical outlets–a giant leap forward in our understanding of how a house operates (and malfunctions). Researchers at LBNL began to see how useful the blower door would be in weatherization and retrofitting work.
Blower door companies started springing up to serve the new market. LBNL energy researcher Max Sherman even got into the business of manufacturing blower doors for a short time. “The Department of Energy put out a solicitation to buy ten blower doors, so my father and I started a company and bid on the contract and we won,” Sherman remembers. These were big, heavy, clunky blower doors, made of plywood and Formica.
“We were all working out of our garages,” recalls Gary Anderson, cofounder of the Energy Conservatory. In 1986, Home Energy (then Energy Auditor and Retrofitter) identified 13 blower door manufacturers, with combined revenues for sales and testing nearing $10 million per year (see “A Healthy Outlook for the Blower Door Industry,” EA&R May/June ‘86, p. 6).
Home Energy
estimated that blower door sales alone reached $1.2 million in 1985. The focus at that time was on making more powerful fans in more manageable sizes.
And Then There Were Three
The industry has consolidated today, with only three North American manufacturers–the Energy Conservatory, Infiltec, and Retrotec–now vying for sales in a growing market.
The Energy Conservatory
Of the three, Energy Conservatory (manufacturer of the Minneapolis Blower Door) is easily the largest, selling 800 to 1,000 blower doors per year, along with Duct Blasters, digital pressure gauges, and other diagnostic tools and procedures.
The Energy Conservatory was hatched over lunches between partners Gary Anderson, then an auditor in St. Paul, and Gary Nelson, an engineer at the Minnesota Energy Agency, during which they would discuss the latest discoveries in residential energy efficiency. The blower door was one advance that captured their imagination.
“It got to be an expensive hobby,” Anderson recalls. The pair retrofitted a two-story garage to use as a calibration chamber and strove continuously to create a design that would be more practical for mainstream contractors. That meant it had to be less expensive, lighter, and easier to use. They worked to make blower door testing more friendly, accurate, and efficient, and helped develop protocols for weatherization programs to prioritize air sealing efforts.
In the late 1980s, the Energy Conservatory was involved in research that led to the understanding that duct leakage is a big problem–not just for energy waste, but also because pressure imbalances caused by the duct system can result in backdrafting and indoor air quality problems. This realization led to the development of a duct leakage testing fan (the Duct Blaster) and a digital manometer for more precise pressure measurements.
Infiltec
Infiltec sells blower doors, in addition to developing energy software and conducting indoor air quality studies for the Environmental Protection Agency.
“We sold our first blower door in 1980,” says Infiltec’s David Saum. Saum got into the business when his retired father was looking for ways to make his home more energy-efficient. Saum did some research and found articles on the Super Sucker, the window-mounted unit being used in Texas. “We decided that we could do better,” Saum says. In addition to blower doors, Infiltec now sells duct testers, mostly for testing ducts in new construction. Infiltec has recently taken its blower doors to Russia to test multifamily buildings there (see “To Russia with Blower Doors,” HE Sept/Oct ‘95, p. 8).
Retrotec
The Canadian firm Retrotec concentrates on selling units for testing fire protection systems, and on teaching HVAC contractors how to use the blower door to boost their business (see “HVAC Contractors Discover Blower Doors“). Retrotec has also been in business since 1980. The founders originally opened their factory because they needed blower doors to use in research projects for Natural Resources Canada (the equivalent of the U.S. Department of Energy).
“At the time, you couldn’t buy a blower door,” vice president Brendan Reid says. Retrotec now offers seven models–all different configurations of the same equipment. Four of these are used in testing industrial fire protection systems. The company offers an optional panel system made of molded plastic sheets, which Reid says installs faster than the standard doors and looks better, although it is less adjustable. Retrotec also sells a sealed smoke puffer, and a duct leak testing system for new construction. With nine employees and two independent sales contractors, the company has annual revenues of just over $1 million.
The Amazing
Shrinking Sucker
Old-timers in the industry can best appreciate the evolution of blower door technology over the years. They’re the ones who remember struggling with a heavy, bulky fan and door panels. “We had a chance to use one of Max’s blower doors,” Gary Anderson recalls, “and when we’d lug the blower door out there, two things happened. We’d be blown away by what we were learning, but at the same time, we were frustrated by how long it took.”
“Our first blower door moved 4,200 cubic feet per minute (CFM) maximum flow, weighed about 55 lb, and was about 28 inches long,” says Anderson. “Then we made a 10-inch long fan that moved 6,400 CFM, increasing flow by 50% with a shorter fan.” Refining the frame was the next major improvement in the blower door, and the Energy Conservatory went to a cloth-covered aluminum frame.
Infiltec’s design also evolved over time, switching from a DC to a much less expensive AC motor. They also introduced a flexible door panel and started using fan rpm instead of just pressure drop to measure flow, improving the accuracy of calibration.
HVAC Contractors Discover Blower Doors
Home Energy
’s readers are familiar with the use of blower doors for weatherization. HVAC contractors are also beginning to recognize the value of using blower doors to improve the quality of their work and to distinguish their company’s service in the market. Many have found that they can make more profit by fixing the problems than by selling higher-capacity equipment to provide thermal comfort in a leaky house. The blower door helps them do that. It also improves their ability to address such issues as backdrafting and indoor air quality.
People like John Tooley of Natural Florida Retrofit and Larry Palmiter with Ecotope have played an important role in bringing blower door testing to the HVAC industry. Since they and others learned of the hazards that can be caused by pressure imbalances in homes and ducts, they have worked to get the message out to people who work on houses. The energy waste and safety problems that can be diagnosed with pressure diagnostics are substantial, and contractors in many areas now understand that it’s good business to use blower doors in their work.
Blower door manufacturers provide training for those who will use their equipment. For example, Retrotec has specifically targeted HVAC contractors with a package that includes seven days of training, with manuals, videos, brochures, and telemarketing scripts. As Reid says, “We realized that if they didn’t have the training and support, they almost never used the blower door.” He adds that the 160 contractors Retrotec has trained in the last four years use the blower door to differentiate themselves from the competition and to add value to a proposal in a way that doesn’t cost them a lot of money. “We’re trying to show that a higher price is often a better value.”
Mediterranean Heating and Air Conditioning
Mediterranean Heating and Air Conditioning, in Canoga Park, California, owns five blower doors, and it didn’t take long for their investment to start paying off. “The first week after we got the blower door, we tested my house and found 500 CFM of leakage,” representative Mike Gardner relates. “I looked up in the return air chase and found it was open to the attic–a 12 inch by 30 inch space, open to the attic. The more houses we tested, the more we found that that’s common. Systems are losing 30% to 60% of capacity on the hottest days, and that’s normal!”
Gardner uses the blower door as an educational tool, to help customers understand that they are losing air. “We use Polaroid cameras in the attic to show them where the duct leaks are,” he says. After the Northridge earthquake, Mediterranean staff could easily verify whether ducts had been damaged.
“We’ve really had a shift in emphasis in what’s important in the HVAC business,” says Gardner. “Now the most important factor in how a system works is the integrity of the air distribution system. You have to ensure that integrity, so that people get the performance they expect from the equipment you install.”
Gardner’s company goes into about 10,000 houses a year. Blower doors will one day be a necessity in his business. “If you don’t understand the problems associated with duct leakage, you’re not going to be in the business,” he says. A year ago Gardner knew of only one other contractor in the Los Angeles area who had a blower door, “and it sat in the closet.” Now he knows seven contractors in the area who use them. “It’s an incredible competitive advantage.”
Holt Service Company
Before they started using blower doors in their business, “we could not find the problems because they were hidden under the insulation,” says David Holt, president of Holt Service Company in Columbus, Georgia. Holt, the third generation to oversee the operations of the family business, says his company has used blower doors for three years. “It makes us money and it solves a lot of problems for the customer. The true benefit to consumers is health, safety, and personal comfort. The financial aspects are nice, the icing on the cake.” He relates the story of a woman who had serious respiratory problems for years, which disappeared after he sealed her duct system. “Within about ten days, she called and said, `For the first time in ten years I’ve been able to sleep without getting up and getting my respirator.’”
“What’s it worth for you to sleep comfortably in your home all night and not wake up all clogged up?” Holt asks potential customers. “You don’t have to breathe all this dust and mold, don’t have to deal with all the moisture; you’re breathing cleaner, fresh air; and there’s no backdrafting.”
What’s Next?
“The equipment has pretty much evolved to optimum,” says Anderson. “The fan weight has dropped from 60 lb to 35 lb, at the same time increasing flow.” The next step is toward computerization and improved error analysis. A computerized, digital blower door will make data more accurate and repeatable at lower house pressures. It will also make it easier for researchers to track a wide variety of conditions. For example, David Grimsrud is now at the University of Minnesota, where he is conducting blower door tests by remote control, tracking measurements by computer to study backdrafting in buildings. His studies use the newest development by the Energy Conservatory: a 16-channel data acquisition system that processes input from carbon dioxide monitors and pressure and temperature sensors.
Super Sucker, the Sequel
In another interesting development, a monster blower door that takes the name of the window-mounted unit used in Texas all those years ago is being used to test large residential and commercial buildings in Canada. The Super Sucker is a whopping 55,000 CFM fan that is 40 ft long and 5 ft in diameter. It is transported to the site on a flatbed trailer, and it takes a team of five people to hook it up (to a pair of double doors) and perform the test.
A Blower Door for Windows
At the other end of the spectrum, the Canadian consulting firm CanAm Building Envelope Specialists Incorporated is marketing an individual window depressurization testing kit, called the MiniLab, which is used to identify and quantify air leaks around windows. This mini-blower door allows retrofitters to demonstrate improvements in air leakage when they replace or seal windows, and enables new home builders to specify and measure the performance of their windows.
The History of the Blower DoorWindow leakage is tested by installing 6-mil plastic on the inside around the window frame, cutting a hole in the middle of the plastic and attaching and sealing a tube in the hole. The hose is then connected to the blower, which pressurizes the space between the plastic and the window. The device has flow meters and a Magnahelic gauge, like a blower door, to measure flow in CFM at a given pressure. New standards in Canada require windows to meet air leakage ratings at 75 Pascals (Pa) of pressure.
Who’s Buying
Blower Doors?
“The market has changed from year to year,” says Infiltec’s Saum. “Originally it was entrepreneurs during the energy crisis; then it changed to utilities and weatherization agencies; and then a few years ago, to the fire protection business.” Blower doors are used to test fire protection systems that use halon gas instead of water (to prevent water damage in case of a fire). These systems used to be tested by setting them off and timing how long it took the halon to dissipate. The EPA banned this procedure when “it was found that halon was the worst ozone eater by a factor of ten,” says Saum. With a blower door, contractors can calculate how long it will take for the halon to leak out of a structure without actually releasing it into the atmosphere.
“To some extent, we have begun to saturate the weatherization market,” Anderson says. However, the blower door is also a valuable tool for HVAC contractors and builders. “Everybody who goes into houses and changes the way the houses operate wants to be sure they don’t do damage. HVAC contractors are becoming more aware than builders; they are much more familiar with the problems that can arise.” Retrotec’s Reid agrees, “There’s high potential because of the numbers,” he says, “with about 50,000 HVAC contractors in North America.”
“We’re moving to a time in housing construction when we’ll see more mechanical ventilation systems,” adds Grimsrud, requiring the near elimination of infiltration, and heralding a demand for infiltration testing in the construction industry.
Anderson points out that most of the people who stopped by the Energy Conservatory’s booth at a recent builders’ show weren’t familiar with blower doors, “but just about every one of them talked about moisture problems, backdrafting, fireplaces that won’t draw–all of which have to do with the airtightness of the envelope.”
“They definitely will benefit from this technology,” Anderson continues. “The option is to build the house and then deal with the problems that show up. A blower door gives builders some control over these problems, because they know how tight the house is, how to deal with duct leakage, and how to size a ventilation system.”
“The most important legacy of the blower door,” concludes Anderson, “is the evolution of the understanding of the house as a system and how you can characterize and diagnose the problems using pressure analysis.”
Visit the Barrie Home Inspector’s tips and maintenance site for more information on energy saving for home owners..
– Most water problems that homeowners encounter can usually be by controlling water above ground. Simple but effective means of controlling those above-ground problems may prevent structural damage to your home as well as dry up those basement damp areas. Most home owners are un-aware that saturated soil increases the soil pressure on the basement wall which can the lead to cracks, shifts, collapses and other structural problems. Start first by looking to the roof,. An inch of water on 1,000 square feet of roof amounts to about 623 gallons of water. A foot of compacted snow on that same roof could contain up to 4 inches of water, or nearly 2,500 gallons. Getting all that water away from the house is a big first step to preventing basement problems and can prevent needless costs in repairs. Ensuring your eaves trough have extension or splash pads that adequately remove water from around your house is the first step in preventing water intrusion or damage to your home. A slope of about 1 inch per foot drainage near the foundation wall is usually adequate. Also, the ground should be sloped to carry the water away from the downspout discharge.
In addition to proper drainage above ground, a properly installed drainage system below ground is important to keeping your basement dry. A properly installed drainage system at the house foundation will prevent many water problems from entering your basement and eliminate saturated soil conditions next to the wall. A study of leakage problems showed that more than 90 percent were due to improperly installed drainage systems. The engineer says a properly installed foundation drainage system includes drainpipes placed alongside the footing. In areas with high water tables, a drainage system can also be installed around the inside of the footing and under the basement floor. Using granular material to allow the movement of water and filtering material to keep soil from plugging drain pipes is essential to keeping the system functioning for the life of the house. Granular backfill should be used next to basement walls, he notes. Using soils that don’t drain well can cause pressure on the walls if the soils become saturated. Most contractors now use a dimpled wrap installed against the foundation ensuring water drains down to weeping tile thus preventing hydraulic pressure from building against foundation walls. Poor drainage will also increase the potential for moisture or water vapor to move through the wall into the basement.
In certain areas, that moisture can carry minerals that are detrimental to the concrete. Basement walls that have had water or moisture leaks will usually leave an effervescent stain which is typically non-removable. Homeowners and home inspectors always view effervescence as indication of water penetration.
Window wells also need to be correctly constructed with drains linked to the foundation drains. Soil elevation in the window well should be several inches below bottom of window and sloped to the drain. The cost of installing the drainage system during new construction is minimal and is minimum building code requirement. As a home inspector window wells are usually an area where there is some deficiency that is noted on inspection report.
Window drains are usually installed in two ways; one is to place window well drain on top of foundation weeping tile and then fill with clean stone, thereby preventing entry and possible blockage from debris; two is to connect window well drain with Tee into foundation weeping tile and close off top of window drain with mesh sock or other means of preventing debris entry. As a home inspector I find many window well drains that are open and partially filled with leaves and toys etc. A blocked window well drain will allow build-up of water in heavy rain or snow melt and could enter basement windows.
Many homes have in ground drains for roof drainage discharge. These usually work well in warm months but in winter they are prone to freezing. I always recommend to my clients that they install a Tee at the top of ground drain which will serve as run off if ground drain is frozen but water is melting on roof. As the ground is the last are to un-thaw water will back up downspout and then freeze at night, installing a Tee will prevent this.
Professional home inspectors can identify problems and potential problems before buying a house or before major and expensive repairs are required. Always check your home inspectors qualifications prior to hiring, CAVEAT EMPTOR – BUYER BEWARE
Choosing The Best Silicone Sealant. A silicone sealant is a highly versatile material that can be used for indoor and outdoor applications. The material is an ideal sealing agent because it is flexible, could resist extreme temperatures, and could be applied easily. But the product comes in a variety of kinds and choosing the right one for a specific application could be challenging. This is especially true if you are just an average person that suddenly wants to fix some pesky leak or install a new bathroom fitting.
These sealing agents were not created equal so before buying one, you need to first consider a number of factors to ensure that the one you will purchase will perform at its best. Using a wrong sealant for a certain application could cause problems in the future. These problems could include leaks, weak sealant bonds, and seals that wear off quickly.
Any of these problems occurring will force you to buy a new sealing agent which is in a practical sense, inefficient. So to avoid spending extra money that could have been spent for other useful purposes, you should really take time in carefully choosing the best product for the situation.
Initially, you need to assess the environment in which the sealing agent will be exposed. This will be a major factor that in determining the most suitable sealant you need. There are sealing agents that were designed to endure different environmental conditions like high moisture levels, high temperature, etc. And for each environment, in combination with other elements, there exists a suitable sealing agent. Being able to choose the right product will save you precious time and money.
These products offer different levels of strength. The main purpose of these products is for providing air and water tight seals but some could be used as adhesives and there are kinds that are excellent in this criterion but is weak in carrying pulling forces. These types are generally used for applications that only require a good seal.
On the other hand, there are varieties that both offer good surface bonding and strength which is suitable for heavy duty applications that both require a tight and strong seal. But of course, these are more expensive.
Aside from strength of the bond and of the material itself, you also need to consider the flexibility that the product you will purchase could provide. For applications that will expose the sealing agent to abrupt temperature changes, the flexibility of the material will play a great role on the how long the sealing agent will hold. It is a common knowledge that a material expands when the ambient temperature is high and conversely, contracts when the temperature is low. Exposing a rigid sealing agent to continuous cycles of expansion and contraction could damage it.
Given that you could already choose the best silicone sealant for the job, the last thing you need to consider that will be essential in completing your job successfully is safety. These chemical sealants contain some harmful chemicals that could have a detrimental impact on your health. So in handling these chemicals, make sure that you take necessary measures to protect yourself from health hazards.
When purchasing a home in Barrie ON you should always employ the services of a professional home inspection company. The Barrie Home Inspector has performed over 4,000 inspections and guarantee’s your Peace of Mind when buying a home. Call Roger at 705-795-8255 to book your inspection.
Installing an Underground Sprinkler System. In a difficult residential real estate market, home-sellers need every edge they can get when it comes time to market their properties. One of the best ways to improve the value of their home is an underground irrigation system. A professionally-installed underground irrigation system will not only keep your lawn and foliage looking great, it will also help you conserve water. All of which means more money in your pocket – both at the end of the month, in the form of lower water bills, and when you’re ready to move.
If you’re frugal, you can always try to do the job yourself. It will almost certainly take longer, and you’ll have to do some thinking before you set out, but an irrigation supply distributor can help you with the process. Once you’ve finished your research, you’ll need to come up with a project blueprint. Your irrigation supply company will devise a plan for you that is suitable for the St. Louis area, and even your particular yard.
Many irrigation supply companies will give you a free grid template which you can use to mark the position of your house, trees and shrubs, and other yard features. After filling it in, you can show it to the distributor who will then calculate the most effective locations for your pop-up sprinklers, water supply lines and other parts of your underground irrigation system.
The distributor will then give instructions on how to check your homes water pressure, which needs to be 60 psi (pounds per square inch) and about 10-13 gpm (gallons per minute) water flow to support an underground system.
Finally, they will provide a thorough list of all the parts necessary for the total installation of your system.
Note: before you rent the trencher, ask yourself a few basic questions:
* Do I really have the time and money to take on this project? Depending on the area of your yard, it could take anywhere from several days to a several weeks of hard labor to finish your own system. If the answer is no, call a professional contracting company.
* Have I purchased enough hardware for the job?
* Have I called all the utilities in the Barrie area to determine where their buried lines are located BEFORE I start digging?
After all, you don’t want to make a costly mistake trying to install an underground irrigation system yourself, only to be forced to call a contractor later to clean up your mess!
Window Cleaning Techniques. Many people struggle with their window cleaning abilities. It does not sound like it should be a difficult task, but there are a lot of people who really become frustrated with this and will rather get someone else to do this for them. However, it is actually easier than you may think. You will really surprise yourself.
First, you have to get yourself the right sort of equipment. The proper tools are going to make all of the difference. If you are using a simple old sponge you will find that there will not be that much difference which you will be able to report.
The secret to cleaning windows is not in the detergent. A lot of people think this and are fooled by the marketing skills of certain companies. Most of the time, it comes down to your techniques. You will need a small dose of detergent which will provide you with a good suds.
Use a detergent that you are used to using or that you have been recommended. Most window cleaners will tell you that it is not the detergent that really matters. It is more in the technique that makes most of the difference. As long as you have something that makes enough suds, you will be on the safe side.
Start by using the mop. Make sure you soak this and give the glass a good coating. If there are any spots that are left over and are not coming off, then get a little blade out and scrape it off. Make sure you do not scratch the glass. Just scrape upwards.
Soak the mop in your solution made up of a little detergent, mixed with water and then rub it on the glass. If there are any marks lefts over, then use a scraper. Just scrape in one direction otherwise the glass is going to become scratched.
A micro-fiber cloth will be used in the later stages for cleaning up the water marks, finger prints and other marks which have been left behind. These are the perfect cloths for drying up the edges, which are tricky to deal with. These can be cleaned easily in the washing machine so they are very convenient.
With all of these factors put together, you will find that window cleaning will be a task that you will begin to enjoy. You may want to put an old towel down on the floor to catch anything that drops down. This will make life easier for you when it comes time to clean up. Most window cleaners will clean the window frames up with a blue cloth. Usually something like detergent will spill over here when you are window cleaning.
