Buying a home is one of the largest investments most people will make. Most people get a home inspection done as part of the buying process to help protect that investment. Buying a home is typically the largest financial investment a person or family will make. Ensure your Home Inspector has the Inspection Knowledge & Experience to protect your investment. The Barrie Home Inspector is the Right Choice for you. If you are living in Ontario and are planning on buying a home, here are some tips for you:
What Should You Expect from a Home Inspection
You have to communicate with your home inspector prior to having your home inspected. Ask questions about what is inspected and even more importantly what is not inspected. For example most people think, and even some home inspectors, that a well and septic tank inspection will be included as part of the home inspection. There are licensed professionals who perform both of these inspections and they are usually hired separately to perform their inspections.
A home inspection is a visual inspection of your home and its major systems. Not everything is visible to the naked eye so home owners should be aware that there maybe hidden problems that may show up at a later date. An example of this is a property inspected in Collingwood. Seller had a flood in basement and did not disclose to Realtor or buyer. Nothing was visible during home inspection as pictures taken showed. When taking possession of house client found visible mould on insulation and when mould experts were brought in, it was also found under linoleum. It is almost impossible to protect yourself from this type of dishonesty which is very disheartening for the majority of honest people out there.
Every professional home inspector has a Standard of Practice which dictates what and what is not inspected. Most home inspectors have this readily available on their website and it is highly recommended that you discuss in detail any concerns or issues prior to hiring one. If your potential new home has some issues that concern you, call your home inspector and discuss them before the home inspection to ensure that they will be addressed to your satisfaction.
Inspecting Your Home Inspector
Professional Home Inspectors typically belong to an organization that certifies them. Research the organizations website for courses and types of qualifications that they require prior to certifying members. Is there a background check and minimum amount of inspections required prior to certification. As a Certified Master Inspector you require both a background check and must have performed over 1,000 paid inspections. The Barrie Home Inspector has performed over 8,000 paid inspections and is a Certified Master Inspector. Many home inspectors also have certifications from other professional organizations that are related to the home inspection field. Roger Frost is a Certified Building Code Official with the Ontario Building Officials Association which indicates he is certified for both Part 9 and Part 3 of the Ontario Building Code. Knowledge and experience are the key prerequisites for a professional home inspection.
After interviewing your potential home inspectors ask for some past referrals or check on a creditable site such as Home Stars or Angie’s List. Visit your home inspector’s website and view a sample home inspection report. Note the detail and observations, are they what you would expect when you receive your report?
When booking your inspection, does your Home Inspector have lots of available time available, that in itself should be a red flag. Most professional home inspectors with experience are usually pretty busy and to hire a good one you will have to compromise on dates and times to book an inspection that suits all parties.
The Home Inspection
The big day has arrived for the Home Inspection. A savvy buyer will come prepared with a list of questions and notepad for any items of interest that may require further evaluation. Unfortunately most buyers quickly become bored with the time and detail needed to inspect a house and usually end up chatting with the Realtor. I would highly recommend that the home buyers stick to their home inspector and ensure that they are aware of significance of any deficiencies or controls that he or she may point out. At the end of the inspection you will get a detailed overview of the complete home inspection, including pictures of any items or interest or deficiencies. This is the time to go with your home inspector and ensure you understand the significance or potential cost for items identified. Failing to address item at inspection still leaves the option of addressing issue when your read your home inspection report. Most inspectors will cheerfully review your home inspection report with you if you have any questions.
If a deficiency is found by the inspector the consumer should obtain three quotes for the repairs from a reputable and insured contractor. The inspector will not provide estimates nor should they recommend companies to use.
Pre-Inspection for Sellers
Many home sellers end up receiving less from the sale of their home than they expected due to a major deficiency that was uncovered during the home inspection. This could easily been avoided if they had opted for a pre-home inspection. Even if no major deficiency is found, just the fact that the laundry list of little items that require doing can be eliminated from the buyers home inspection report can make it very worthwhile. Buyers could become nervous while listening to their home inspector drone on about missing caulking, cracks in asphalt pavement, exposed wood that requires painting, doors that need adjusting, holes in screens, loose boards on deck and the list can go on and on. These types of deficiencies are common but also very easy to repair or replace. When you go to a car lot, the cars are freshly washed and shiny, your home should be presented that way also, invest in a pre-inspection and make your sale go smoother and get the best price possible.
Double Taps in Panel – A double tap in an electrical panel refers to added wires at fuse connections so as to increase the number of circuits that are available to the electrical system. This is accomplished by connecting two conductors (electrical cables) to one terminal of a circuit breaker, and or two neutral conductors under one screw at the neutral bar. Cutler Hammer and Square D both make a circuit breaker on which it is permitted to attach two connectors, these types of circuit breaker are clearly identified on their labels. The best solution to this problem is to have a licensed electrician install another circuit breaker and remove the double tap connection.
Vermiculite Insulation – Many older homes have had vermiculite insulation added to their existing insulation. The vermiculite insulation that originated from Libby Montana was found to have traces of asbestos present. The only way to determine if vermiculite has asbestos is by sending samples to a lab for testing. Having vermiculite insulation removed can cost a home owner of an average house between 8 and 15 thousand dollars. Having your home properly inspected can prevent you from having an expensive asbestos removal bill after taking possession of your new home.
Window Sill Mortar Cracks – This is one of the most common deficiencies found during a home inspection, concrete split window sills with cracked or missing mortar. On newer homes the builder will typically put caulking over the mortar seam between two pieces of concrete sill. Over time the caulking shrinks and allows water and moisture to start attacking the mortar seam. Once the mortar is cracked the natural thawing and freezing action in winter starts to break up the mortar and the moisture proceeds down to the brick below the sill. Even on fairly newer homes it is common to see the brick mortar under a window sill starting to crack, and in some cases the moisture causes damage to the brick by spalling. Spalling is when the brick (typically clay brick) absorbs moisture and then freezes, the freezing action causes the moisture to expand, blowing of part of the brick finish.
Chimney Caps – New homes have to have a one piece cap installed, no more mortar chimney caps which usually have many gaps and cracks. The requirements for a chimney cap are to be one piece and they must have a drip edge installed. The top of the cap is required to slope away from the liner. Jointed precast chimney caps are also required to have flashing installed extending from liner to the drip edge. A bond break is required between liner and cap which is comprised of a non-bonding sealant that can expand and contract with the liner. Older caps usually had two piece caps which were then sealed with mortar. Unfortunately the mortar tends to easily crack and allow water to penetrate. Failing to keep the chimney properly sealed can lead to damage to flue tile and eventual repair of some or all of the flue liner. Most people opt to insert a stainless steel chimney liner when water damage has affected their clay flue tiles.
Leaking Thermal Seals – Energy saving windows and doors have thermal sealed glass units installed which provide an air gap for insulation. Signs of a leaking seal are foggy or moisture droplets on the inside portion of the thermal unit. Most window units leak from the bottom section of the window where the support blocks are located. Cheaper builders grade windows have smaller and less support which can lead to a puncture of the sealant material causing the leak. Some people, usually sellers, will call in a company to drill holes in exterior glass unit and then clean the window interior with alcohol type product which will easily evaporate or be absorbed by the desiccant material most windows have in the bottom section. This is not a great fix as you lose your thermal seal and you might as well just break the outer glass and remove it and save yourself some money. The recommended way to repair a leaking thermal seal unit would be to remove the glass unit, slider or casement etc., and take it to a local glass repair shop. Some companies will repair the existing thermal unit while others will replace unit with a new one.
Attic Insulation – Telling potential home buyers that there is rodent trails in their attic insulation is not a pleasant experience. Women are especially concerned about the thoughts of sharing their home with some mice. Unfortunately almost 95% of brick homes that have fiberglass insulation will have mice running around in their attic. Mice can walk up a brick wall as easily as we walk on a sidewalk. They can also compress their heads allowing them to access the attic through any small hole or crack. Vinyl clad homes do not have this problem as mice are unable to climb on the vinyl material. Cellulose insulation, which is re-cycled paper treated with fire retardant chemicals, does not attract mice and when an attic is inspected there is no visible signs of rodents in the insulation. My solution on my own home was to blow in approximately 6 inches of cellulose insulation over the existing fiberglass. I have not seen a mouse since then but I would not guarantee that there was no mice living under the cellulose in the existing fiberglass insulation. Rodent trails have also been found during inspections in attics with Roxul and Rock Wool insulation types.
Reversed Polarity – Many times when a home owner has done their own renovation of a basement there are a lot of electrical outlets with reversed polarity or open grounds. This creates an immediate problem which has to be explained to the potential home buyer. When the electrical work was not done properly it indicates that there was not permit taken out for the work and it was never inspected or passed by the approving electrical authority. If this was found in a renovated basement then it usually is a safe bet that there was never any permits taken out for any work including plumbing and framing etc. When buying properties for myself I always assume that if there are visible defects in workmanship found then there will be others that are hidden by drywall, paneling and ceilings. A buyer has to weight the benefits of ignoring the fact that there was no permits or inspections performed against the possible liabilities.
1. “Everyone’s Idea of a Home Inspection is Different.”
You’ve found your perfect dream house. But after watching horror shows on unsuspecting buyers who have bought a “money pit”, you want a home inspector to take a look at your potential new home before you buy. That way, you’ll be forewarned about any defects or problems, so you will not have any un-expected surprises. A home inspector’s job is to conduct a visual examination of the physical condition of the house and the major systems within it. The key word here is “visual.” That means home inspectors don’t have to remove carpets to make sure the floors aren’t warped, for example, or drill into walls to check for insulation.
2. “I’m not going up on your roof.”
Some inspectors never climb any roof. The American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI), a professional organization with around 5,000 members whose guidelines have been adopted as the industry standard, says its member inspectors must “observe” the roof, but it doesn’t say they actually have to go up there. Some inspectors will use their ladder if the roof is slippery or unsafe or even use binoculars to check for any defects.
3. “Training? What training?”
As a rule, who do you think requires more regulated licensing requirements, hair stylists or home inspectors? While many home inspectors have years of experience that make them experts at what they do, the only credential some can boast is an impressive looking website. In fact, only British Columbia and Alberta have regulations regulating home inspectors.
4. “Who is More Important, you or Your Real Estate Agent.”
Since many prospective homebuyers are new in town, they naturally turn to their real-estate agent to recommend a home inspector. Not a good idea, says many experienced home inspectors. Home inspectors often rely on real-estate agents for referrals, so it’s not hard to figure out where their allegiance lies. “As a result, they may provide a “sanitized version of a report” know in some circles as sugarcoating the inspection”. It is up to the buyer to arrange for a competent professional to inspect the property they are going to purchase.
5. “What are you Willing to Pay for a Home Inspection”
The standard home inspection, which starts around $300 to $400, may seem to cover all the basics — but watch out: Even ASHI-approved inspectors aren’t required to look for problems with kitchen appliances, fire and lawn sprinkler systems, septic systems, lead paint, radon gas, smoke detectors, (noncentral) air conditioners, pests, and geological and soil conditions. These “extras” nearly always add to your bill. On the other hand don’t expect to buy a duplex and pay the same price as a single residential home.
6. “Should Your Hire Experts”
Septic and well inspections should be left to the experts. Septic systems are totally underground and most professional home inspectors will advise you to have an expert inspect the system. The Barrie Home Inspector recommends you use a trained installer to pump your tank and then provide a written analysis of the system. Trained well testers will inspect the well and perform flow tests measuring the flow and recovery rate.
7. “The Home Inspection Report”
Professional home inspection reports are typically computerized and will include up to 100 pictures of an average size home. Pictures will include all deficiencies and there will be a narrative defining defect and recommended course of action. The Barrie Home Inspector will go over every picture at the time of inspection and will provide explanations and recommendations before leaving the property. This is a valuable service as it is far better to actually be looking at a furnace or sump pump that has some issues than reading a report at home and possibly not fully understanding the full scope of the issue.
8. “Thermal Imaging Scans”
The Barrie Home Inspector provides Free Thermal Imaging Scans of your home during the Home Inspection process. Thermal imaging is a valuable tool for finding hidden moisture, missing insulation or overheating electrical equipment. When the Delta T factor is over 18 thermal imaging can even find areas where insulation is not evenly distributed in walls and attics.
9. “Home Inspection Guarantee”
Ask your home inspector what his guarantee is. Many professional home inspectors will offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee if the client is not completely satisfied. The Guarantee is sometimes only offered by experienced inspectors who have no problem standing behind their service.
10. “Caveat Emptor”
Caveat Emptor stands for Buyer Beware and is a centuries old expression. It is as true today as it was in the old days. Whenever money is changing hands it is up to the consumer to do his or hers homework and protect their interests. An educated consumer is a smart consumer.
Your Home – How Long Will it Last? When you are considering buying your dream house there are many items in a house that will eventually require replacement. The Barrie Home Inspector has put together a list of components and systems that you can expect to replace at some time in the life span of your home. Some of the areas we will be dealing with are your roof, heating and air conditioning, hot water tanks, siding or cladding, plumbing supply lines and doors and windows.
Gas furnaces will typically last 20 to 25 years with only minor repairs being required. Most furnaces are replaced after the heat exchanger fails and even if still under warranty the labour costs would be prohibitive. The flame sensor is the most common failure and a gas furnace can vary from $100.00 to $200.00, so it pays to shop around. The initial cost of a new gas furnace can range from $900.00 to $14,00.00 with installation being extra.
Oil furnaces have a life expectancy of 20 years based on results used in 2010. Also with the oil furnace you need an oil storage tank. The storage tank should be a listed ULC rated tank which is good for 10 years from date on listing tag. After ten years your oil supplier will have to visually inspect your tank before delivering oil.
Central Air Conditioning
Units can last anywhere from 15 to 20 years. Some models will last longer and most experts will tell you to just run them until they stop. Having a working 25 year old central air conditioner is not un-common. Roofs with Fiberglass shingles can expect to last around Below is a list of items in the home and the Life Expectancy or the individual items.
Roofs
The most common type of roofing material is fiberglass shingles. The builders grade of shingle usually will last between 18 and 20 years. The south side of roof gets more sunlight and will start deteriorating first. Whenever you see your shingles starting to curl it is time to start thinking about replacing your shingles. Ensure your roofers quote will include things like, installing a starter strip, whether of not he will be replacing any valley or flashing material and will he be putting new flashing on plumbing vents etc.
Plumbing
Some insurance companies will not insure home with galvanized plumbing as it is not used anymore and it will have exceeded its predictable life span. The common life expectancy of galvanized steel is 20 to 50 years. Copper is rated to last over 50 years and was the most common type of plumbing material used replacing galvanized steel. Pex plumbing is thought to be able to be used for well over 50 plus years as there is not hard data available as yet. Polybutylene piping—a gray, plastic plumbing material used from the 1970s through the 1990s—is extremely prone to breakage.
Hot Water Tanks – The consensus on the life expectancy on water heaters seems to depend on some variables, such as; how hard your water is, do you drain tank periodically, and the hotter the water the shorter the life span. 8 to 12 years seems to be the average life span.
Exterior Cladding
Fiber-cement, wood, and aluminum siding have a 50 year life expectancy, but life expectancy for wood is contingent on painting. Vinyl has a 25 year expected life, however, it may be replaced earlier because it tends to look less presentable over time due to fading and cannot be painted. Fiber-cement board has twice the life span of vinyl. Wood composite products have the shortest useful life span – around 10 to 30 years.
Doors & Windows
Aluminum windows are expected to last between 15 and 20 years while wooden
windows should last upwards of 30 years. Newer PVC windows have a life expectancy from 8 to 30 years. Quality of manufacturing will vary and items like using Argon gas for thermal units can greatly extend life of window. Some exterior doors now come with a lifetime guarantee but don’t expect to find that door installed by a subdivision builder.
Below is a chart of the life expectancy of most household items:
Life Expectancy of Household Components
Appliances
Life in years
Compactors
10
Dishwashers
10
Dryers
14
Disposal
10
Freezers, compact
12
Freezers, standard
16
Microwave ovens
11
Electric ranges
17
Gas ranges
19
Gas ovens
14
Refrigerators, compact
14
Refrigerators, standard
17
Washers, automatic and compact
13
Exhaust fans
20
Source: Appliance Statistical Review, April 1990
Bathrooms
Life in years
Cast iron bathtubs
50
Fiberglass bathtub and showers
10-15
Shower doors, average quality
25
Toilets
50
Sources: Neil Kelly Designers, Thompson House of Kitchens and Bath
Cabinetry
Life in years
Kitchen cabinets
15-20
Medicine cabinets and bath vanities
20
Sources: Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association, Neil Kelly Designers
Closet systems
Life in years
Closet shelves
Lifetime
Countertops
Life in years
Laminate
10-15
Ceramic tile, high-grade installation
Lifetime
Wood/butcher block
20+
Granite
20+
Sources: AFPAssociates of Western Plastics, Ceramic Tile Institute of America
Doors
Life in years
Screen
25-50
Interior, hollow core
Less than 30
Interior, solid core
30-lifetime
Exterior, protected overhang
80-100
Exterior, unprotected and exposed
25-30
Folding
30-lifetime
Garage doors
20-50
Garage door opener
10
Sources: Wayne Dalton Corporation, National Wood Window and Door Association, Raynor Garage Doors
Electrical
Life in years
Copper wiring, copper plated, copper clad aluminum, and bare copper
100+
Armored cable (BX)
Lifetime
Conduit
Lifetime
Source: Jesse Aronstein, Engineering Consultant
Finishes used for waterproofing
Life in years
Paint, plaster, and stucco
3-5
Sealer, silicone, and waxes
1-5
Source: Brick Institute of America Floors
Floors
Life in years
Oak or pine
Lifetime
Slate flagstone
Lifetime
Vinyl sheet or tile
20-30
Terrazzo
Lifetime
Carpeting (depends on installation, amount of traffic, and quality of carpet)
11
Marble (depends on installation, thickness of marble, and amount of traffic)
Lifetime+
Sources: Carpet and Rug Institute, Congoleum Corporation, Hardwood Plywood Manufacturers Association, Marble Institute, National Terrazzo and Mosaic Association, National Wood Flooring Association, Resilient Floor Covering Institute
Footings and foundation
Life in years
Poured footings and foundations
200
Concrete block
100
Cement
50
Waterproofing, bituminous coating
10
Termite proofing (may have shorter life in damp climates)
5
Source: WR Grace and Company
Heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC)
Life in years
Central air conditioning unit (newer units should last longer)
15
Window unit
10
Air conditioner compressor
15
Humidifier
8
Electric water heater
14
Gas water heater (depends on type of water heater lining and quality of water)
11-13
Forced air furnaces, heat pump
15
Rooftop air conditioners
15
Boilers, hot water or steam (depends on quality of water)
30
Furnaces, gas- or oil-fired
18
Unit heaters, gas or electric
13
Radiant heaters, electric
10
Radiant heaters, hot water or steam
25
Baseboard systems
20
Diffusers, grilles, and registers
27
Induction and fan coil units
20
Dampers
20
Centrifugal fans
25
Axial fans
20
Ventilating roof-mounted fans
20
DX, water, and steam coils
20
Electric coils
15
Heat Exchangers, shell-and-tube
24
Molded insulation
20
Pumps, sump and well
10
Burners
21
Sources: Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Institute, Air Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration News, Air Movement and Control Association, American Gas Association, American Society of Gas Engineers, American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air-Conditioning Engineers, Inc., Safe Aire Incorporated
Home security appliances
Life in years
Intrusion systems
14
Smoke detectors
12
Smoke/fire/intrusion systems
10
Insulation
Life in years
For foundations, roofs, ceilings, walls, and floors
Lifetime
Sources: Insulation Contractors Association of America, North American Insulation Manufacturers Association
Landscaping
Life in years
Wooden decks
15
Brick and concrete patios
24
Tennis courts
10
Concrete walks
24
Gravel walks
4
Asphalt driveways
10
Swimming pools
18
Sprinkler systems
12
Fences
12
Sources: Associated Landscape Contractors of America, Irrigation Association
Masonry
Life in years
Chimney, fireplace, and brick veneer
Lifetime
Brick and stone walls
100+
Stucco
Lifetime
Sources: Brick Institute of America, Architectural Components, National Association of Brick Distributors, National Stone Association
Millwork
Life in years
Stairs, trim
50-100
Disappearing stairs
30-40
Paints and stains
Life in years
Exterior paint on wood, brick, and aluminum
7-10
Interior wall paint (depends on the acrylic content)
5-10
Interior trim and door paint
5-10
Wallpaper
7
Sources: Finnaren and Haley, Glidden Company, The Wall Paper
Plumbing
Life in years
Waste piping, cast iron
75-100
Sinks, enamel steel
5-10
Sinks, enamel cast iron
25-30
Sinks, china
25-30
Faucets, low quality
13-15
Faucets, high quality
15-20
Sources: American Concrete Pipe Association, Cast Iron Soil and Pipe Institute, Neil Kelly Designers, Thompson House of Kitchens and Baths
Roofing
Life in years
Asphalt and wood shingles and shakes
15-30
Tile (depends on quality of tile and climate)
50
Slate (depends on grade)
50-100
Sheet metal (depends on gauge of metal and quality of fastening and application)
20-50+
Built-up roofing, asphalt
12-25
Built-up roofing, coal and tar
12-30
Asphalt composition shingle
15-30
Asphalt overlag
25-35
Source: National Roofing Contractors Association
Rough structure
Life in years
Basement floor systems
Lifetime
Framing, exterior and interior walls
Lifetime
Source: NAHB Research Foundation
Shutters
Life in years
Wood, interior
Lifetime
Wood, exterior (depends on weather conditions)
4-5
Vinyl plastic, exterior
7-8
Aluminum, interior
35-50
Aluminum, exterior
3-5
Sources: A.C. Shutters, Inc., Alcoa Building Products, American Heritage Shutters
Siding
Life in years
Gutters and downspouts
30
Siding, wood (depends on maintenance)
10-100
Siding, steel
50-Lifetime
Siding, aluminum
20-50
Siding, vinyl
50
Sources: Alcoa Building Products, Alside, Inc., Vinyl Siding Institute
Walls and window treatments
Life in years
Drywall and plaster
30-70
Ceramic tile, high grade installation
Lifetime
Sources: Association of Wall and Ceiling Industries International, Ceramic Tile Institute of America
Windows
Life in years
Window glazing
20
Wood casement
20-50
Aluminum and vinyl casement
20-30
Screen
25-50
Sources: Best Built Products, Optimum Window Manufacturing, Safety Glazing Certification Council, Screen Manufacturers Association
Home inspectors have been adding Infrared Cameras to their arsenal of tools used to find any hidden deficiencies that might not be visible to the naked eye. Some of the most common items found with the use of a Thermal Imaging camera are; missing insulation, hot spots on electrical panel and moisture penetration. Most home inspectors advertise that Thermal Imaging will help in identifying electrical issues; missing, damaged and/or wet insulation; heat/cold energy loss; moisture intrusion that could lead to mold; hidden roof leaks; damaged and/or malfunctioning radiant heating systems; plumbing leaks; overheated equipment, etc.
Unfortunately Thermal Imaging technology is subject to many variables such as quality, on-site conditions and, last but not least, the ability of the inspector to accurately interpret the data. The Barrie Home Inspector was the first Professional Home Inspector in Simcoe County to offer Thermal Imaging with an Infrared camera. The use of Thermal Imaging has become so common place now that the Barrie Home Inspector now offers Free Thermal Imaging scan with every home inspection.
Infrared Thermal Imaging (ITI) is a non-invasive, non-destructive way of evaluating conditions below the surface. This allows us to detect small, but crucial differences in temperature throughout the house within the building materials. No matter what the temperature is on the outside or inside a good Thermal Imaging camera will pick out wall studs and ceiling joists. Heat loss and drafts are quickly detected and identified.
Plumbing leaks are quickly found and using Infrared thermal imaging is a quick, non-invasive method of investigation, which will confirm moisture migration paths, whether it be from internal plumbing, condensation or from external weather related leaks.
Commercial building roofs which have no visible leaks can be quickly assessed to find any penetrations that have started but not yet fully penetrated. Leaks around vents, ducts, HVAC penetrations are quickly identified. Air leakage is the primary source of heat loss in a commercial building envelope. A complete thermal scan of your building can identify where and causes of air infiltration.
Thermal Cameras will not work unless there is a difference of temperature of at least 18 degrees between the inside and the outside of the building. Most roof inspections are done in early morning before the sun has an opportunity to warm the roof. When the roof is cool any areas of moisture will cool at a slower rate than the dry areas showing up as a warm spot at night. If conditions are ideal the thermographer will be able to see the wall framing which will allow him to identify areas of thermal bridging or cavities where insulation is missing.
Proper ventilation of your home is important for your families health and comfort. Your home can become a repository for moisture, smoke, cooking odors and indoor pollutants. To control the levels of these substances in your home you have to have fresh air entering your home to replace these pollutants. In your typical home air movement is controlled mainly by infiltration, natural ventilation and mechanical ventilation.
Infiltration – This is the amount of fresh air that enters your home through openings, joints, and cracks in walls, floors, and ceilings, and around windows and doors . Newer homes are becoming tighter which reduces the amount of natural infiltration of fresh air into your house.
Natural Ventilation – Opening windows and doors is a common method of natural ventilation. I think we all can remember when our mothers used to “air out” rooms even in the middle of winter.
Mechanical Ventilation – New homes all have mechanical ventilation in kitchen, bathrooms and laundry rooms. This rooms have exhaust fans that discharge air to the exterior of the home. Kitchen exhaust fans that just re-circulate air through a metal grease filter can be quite a collector of grease, odors and airborne pollutants. Bathrooms that have peeling paint on ceiling from moisture is a sign of extremely poor ventilation. Exhaust only ventilation systems are only designed to work in the room in which they are installed.
Attic Ventilation – Having the proper insulation and adequate ventilation can protect your attic from mould and wood rot. If air cannot circulate from your soffits and pass through the attic area exiting through upper vents, heat and moisture will collect in the attic area causing extensive problems. When upgrading your insulation it is always a good idea to increase your attics ventilation by adding additional soffit baffles. One sure sign of poor attic ventilation and/or lack of insulation is the formation of ice dams on eaves of roof in the winter. Heating cables are another sign of problems in attics.
Heat Recovery Ventilators (HRV’s) – HRVs are efficient devices that provide good ventilation without a big energy cost for heating the outside air. The HRV uses the air being exhausted to preheat incoming air. Many municipalities now require a HRV unit to be installed if you have a wood burning appliance. This is to prevent negative pressure building up in your home creating a back draft problem. In energy efficient homes there can be a shortage of fresh air entering the home which can cause what was termed the “sick building syndrome”. This is basically when there is more air leaving the home through various sources, such as; fireplaces, furnaces, exhaust fans, hot water tanks and wood stoves. Some of the common symptoms were; back drafting of combustion appliances, mold, mildew and condensation on walls, lack of fresh air with musty and stale odors and a noticeable rush of air into the house when opening a door or window.
If you are contemplating installing a HRV unit for your home it is recommended that you consult and expert to have unit custom designed to work in tandem with your proposed HVAC system. Better results can be obtained when HRV’s are installed as part of new home construction as they can be added to your bathrooms, kitchen and laundry area. HRV’s can be an added option to an existing home but will not function as efficiently. CMHC and ASHRAE both have some excellent articles on home ventilation if further knowledge is required.
Martin Jennings contributed this great piece of information which I thought was worth adding so that everyone could benefit.
Home Services Sales Consultant | The Home Depot
Good advice about keeping your home well ventilated!
I’d like to expand on your attic section which is probably one of the most important sections of the home. A well balanced attic is one that breathes freely during all seasons. Here in Florida, I’ve seen roofing shingle temperatures of 170 degrees only to find the attic temperatures to be 165 degrees; a sure sign of an unbalanced ventilation system. The major culprit is insufficient soffit to ridge vent airflow due to improperly installed insulation.
Most homeowners think that piling up their attic floor with a huge blanket of blown in fiberglass (by themselves) is really saving them money. Get this done by the professionals that will install baffles between EVERY joist and ensure there is adequate ridge ventilation. Allowing the proper convective airflow will result in a cooler attic, better energy conservation, and extended roof life.
A good rule of thumb to determine if your attic is properly balanced:
If the asphalt shingle temperature on a 90 degree sunny day is 170 degrees, your attic should be NO MORE THAN 120 degrees. Achieving this balance will pay off in both the short and long runs!
