Many homeowners have electrical work done without having a building permit or an electrical inspection at completion of work. One very unique problem that I have encountered every so often, is a homeowner installing a bathroom where main electrical panel is located.
Most electrical work requires that you pull a permit with your local electrical authority. Many jurisdictions allow a homeowner to work on his/her own home’s electrical system. Some areas only allow work on branch circuits and not main service panel installation. Other areas will not allow homeowner permits at all. This varies from place to place, so it is CRITICAL that, before you commence any do-it-yourself home wiring project, you first check the rules in your area.
Exclusion of Rules: If a house had a permit issued, was inspected and met the standard required at that time, it would be considered “Grandfathered”, and would not be required to be brought up to today’s standards. This would not apply to any work that was done improperly or to any additions to electrical system without a permit.
According to 2006 Electrical Code Simplified, the following rules apply:
Rule 2-308 requires a minimum working space of 39 inches of floor space in front of electrical equipment.
Rule 26-402 Location of Panelboards
Subrule (1) Panelboards shall not be located in coal bins, clothes closets, bathrooms, stairways, high ambient rooms, dangerous or hazardous locations, nor in any similar undesirable places.
According to the NEC (2011 edition)
Section 230.70(A)(2) – “Service disconnecting means shall not be installed in bathrooms.”
Section 240.24(E) – “In dwelling units, dormitories, and guest rooms or guest suites, over current devices, other than supplementary over current protection, shall not be located in bathrooms.”
This is from Ontario Electrical Safety Bulletins 2009
BULLETIN 26-20-2
Panel boards – Location, Working Space and Mounting Height
Rules 26-402, 2-308, 2-310 and 6-206
Issued May 2009
Supersedes Bulletin 26-20-1
Scope
(1) Mounting height of a Panelboard
(2) Working space around a panelboard
(3) Panelboards and bathrooms
Rules 6-206 and 26-402 give direction as to where an electrical panelboard should not be installed by
noting some of the undesirable places. An important part of this requirement is to also insure ready
access to the panelboard and to provide suitable working space for operation or maintenance as required
by Rules 2-308 and 2-310.
(1) Mounting height of a Panelboard
Direction
There has been some confusion in the industry regarding interpretation of Rule 26-402(2) with respect to
the correct mounting height of a panelboard in a dwelling unit. This subrule has two criteria that must be met:
1. The panel shall be mounted as high as possible.
2. No circuit breaker handle or breaker blank shall be more than 1.7 m above the finished floor level.
(2) Working space around a panelboard
Question What is meant by “A minimum working space of 1 m with secure footing…” when applied to residential panel boards that are mounted on or in a wall and require access from only the front?
Direction This is interpreted as meaning a space that is at least 2 m in height, at least 1 m in depth in front of the panel, and at least 1 m in width or the width of the panel board, whichever is greater. The panel board does not have to be centered in the width of the working space; it can be off center.
(3) Panelboards and bathrooms
Background
Questions periodically arise about installing a panelboard in a bathroom. This is considered an undesirable location because of excessive moisture issues and limited working space in front of the electrical panel in many bathrooms.
Direction
If the panelboard were installed in a “separate room” located off of the bathroom, that provides the one square meter of clear working space as required by Rule 2-308, as well as ready access to the door leading into the room as per Rule 2-310, then the panelboard would be considered to be located in an acceptable location.
Check back often to see more information as this article is updated as information becomes available.
In Ontario the home owner is responsible for maintaining their septic system. Failure to properly maintain your septic system can lead to contaminated ground water. That is why if your source of drinking water is a well you should have it tested on a regular basis.
Most potential purchasers will require any maintenance or pumping information you have available for both your well and septic system. The typical septic system consists of a septic tank and a leaching bed.
Since the 1970’s most septic systems have consisted of perforated pipes surrounded by stone and sand. If the sand is not available on site it would have to be imported in. The field has a biofilm at the bottom of the stone and sand which is the final filter before the effluent enters the natural soil.
All the waste water from your home goes to your septic tank. The primary chamber allows all the solids to settle before the water moves to the second chamber where any remaining particles should settle. The baffle prevents any floating particles from entering your bed. The expected life span of a septic tank is approximately 30 years. Over use can shorten it life span considerably which is why it is important that a system be properly sized for the house it is serving.
You should keep all toxic and hazardous chemicals out of your septic tank system. Avoid washing coffee grounds and other food items down your drain. Grease and cooking oils create a layer of scum in your septic tank and should not be disposed of down your drain. Plastics, dental floss, paper towels, tampons, cigarette butts and kitty litter should not be disposed of by your toilet.
A quick check of the septic tank can determine whether you need a plumber of a septic pumper. If your septic tank is full to the lid then your drainage field has a problem. If the tank is down 6 -8 inches check the inlet to see if there is any clogging from grease or other products.
Using a garbage disposal can increase your solids by as much as 50% and are not recommended for use in septic tanks. Water softeners pump large amounts of water into your septic system and the salt can be harmful to the bacteria in your tank.
There are two types of Tertiary Treatment systems, that must be approved by the Building Materials Evaluation Commission prior to use in Ontario, passive and aerobic systems. The passive system filters the sewage to produce the required final effluent and the aerobic system has an active blower which adds air to sewage increasing bacterial growth.
When purchasing a new property ask your realtor for drawings or site plans showing location and the date the septic system was installed. Most municipalities or health departments keep these records on file. Having you septic tank pumped and inspected by a trained member of Ontario Association of Sewage Industry Services should be done prior to purchasing property.
Urea formaldehyde foam insulation (UFFI) – What’s the Truth
Urea formaldehyde foam insulation (UFFI) has been used as an insulating material in North America since the mid-1960’s and in Europe for several decades. It is estimated that 100,000 homes in Canada and 500,000 homes in the United States are insulated with Urea Formaldehyde insulation. This form of insulation was used extensively in Canada and the U.S. during that time, especially during the period from 1975 to 1978. In Canada, the government offered financial incentives for its use and as with most government programs was poorly supervised allowing shoddy workmanship from poorly trained installers.
Urea Formaldehyde Foam Insulation (UFFI) was installed primarily in wall cavities during the 1970’s as an energy conservation measure. Its appearance is like ordinary shaving cream. Dry, it can be a white or tan colour, and fluffy like styrofoam. To ascertain if UFFI is present in a home samples of insulation must be taken for lab analysis.. It is made by using a pump set and hose with a mixing gun to mix the foaming agent, resin and compressed air. The fully expanded foam is pumped into areas in need of insulation. It becomes firm within minutes but cures within a week. UFFI is generally spotted in homes built before the 1970s; one should look in basements, crawl spaces, attics, and unfinished attics. Visually it looks like oozing liquid that has been hardened. Over time, it tends to vary in shades of butterscotch but new UFFI is a light yellow color. Early forms of UFFI tended to shrink significantly. Modern UF insulation with updated catalysts and foaming technology have reduced shrinkage to minimal levels (between 2-4%). The foam dries with a dull matte color with no shine. When cured, it often has a dry and crumbly texture.
Formaldehyde is also widely used in building materials. It is especially used in glue, foam insulation and pressed wood products, such as, plywood, particle board, paneling, wood finishes and furniture. Many floor coverings, like carpeting, padding, and adhesives also contain formaldehyde. Other products include paper products, cosmetics, deodorants, shampoos, fabric dyes, inks, and air and carpet deodorizers.
The United States had the first problem case involving Urea Formaldehyde which was installed in a mobile home. This mobile home was extremely air tight and the urea formaldehyde was apparently only half mixed and poorly installed. Although there were no directly attributable problems to the insulation the Federal Government banned its use as a precautionary measure. The fears of having a home with UFFI installed eventually created a loss in market value of the homes and the fear of cancer and other health problems coupled with the decrease in property value of homes insulated with UFFI, have given it a stigma from which it has never recovered. The Consumer Product Safety Commission banned the sale of UFFI in the United States in 1982. Shortly thereafter, laws were enacted to further ban its use. However, in April of 1983, the U.S. Court of Appeals repealed the law, due to insubstantial evidence of UFFI contamination.
Claimants in a Quebec court case took the Federal Government, manufactures and others to court in a record setting case which lasted about eight years. Unfortunately they could not find any homes where the formaldehyde gas levels exceeded the conservative amount of 0.1 parts per million. The court found there was no basis for a settlement and the plaintiffs had to pay most of the court costs.
Urea Formaldehyde insulation is still used in Europe where it is considered one of the best retro-fit insulation products. In 1983 the United States Court of Appeals repealed the law banning its use due to insubstantial evidence of UFFI contamination.
Your offer has just been accepted on your dream home, now you need a home inspector. Many Realtor’s will supply you with the names of their favorite home inspector or recommend as many as three local home inspectors. Whether you take your Realtor’s advice or you find your own home inspector, through friends advice or online, there is some information you should verify before hiring a home inspector.
In Ontario there is no requirement for a home inspector to be licensed. There are professional associations that most professional inspectors belong to, you can go online to view their
The Best Home Inspector in Barrie ON
requirements for membership. Prior experience is a good starting question when interviewing a prospective home inspector, a registered builder obviously will have more knowledge than a factory worker. Professional qualifications from Provincial Organizations are also indicate a higher level of professionalism than some online courses which issue great looking certificates but are a little short in actual knowledge. The number of home inspections and years in business are absolutely the most defining question you can ask.
Because buying a home is one of the biggest investments that most people will make you should plan to attend the home inspection and bring a pad and pencil with you. A good home inspection also gives you invaluable details about your new home in addition to information about the condition of the property. You’ll learn where the main shutoff valves to the utilities are located, how the house operates and more! Asking questions during the home inspection will ensure you are completely aware of any issues that may have come up after you moved in. Remember a educated consumer is a smart consumer.
Some of the items your home inspector looks for which can affect the sale of the home are:
Drainage Issues – Poor landscaping can cause wood rot, wet basements and crawlspaces and even mould growth. Most drainage issues are caused by poor downspout location or damaged gutters. Simply re-grading area around the house can repair most drainage issues. Most home owners are un-aware that water is a natural compactor of soil and will continually lower the grade in an area where it is allowed to pool.
Foundations – Responsible for distributing the houses load to the footing, this is an important part of your home structure. Crumbling or large cracks in the concrete can signal expensive repairs maybe required. Wet or leaking foundations can indicate high water tables or drainage issues.
Roofs – Builders grade roof shingles rarely last much beyond 18 years and typically will always fail on the south side of roof first. Homebuyers buying a home that is around 15 years old can expect to pay for shingle replacement in near future. Replacing shingles on a home is a required maintenance expense that should be budgeted for by home owners and buyers. Beware of double layer shingles, although legally acceptable in Ontario, the added cost of removal and dump fees will just be passed on to the next roof re-shingling.
Electrical Wiring – Aluminum wiring in a home, although still legal, cannot be insured by some insurance companies. Some insurance companies will require it be completely removed prior to issuing a home policy. Some older homes still have older two wire copper wiring with no ground wire or even worse, knob and tube wiring still installed. It is amazing how many times a house will have a new panel, new romex wiring throughout the house and when the attic is inspected there is still one or two live knob and tube circuits. This are exactly the type of things homebuyers need to know prior to purchasing a home. The absolute worst case scenario for home buyers is the renovated basement with no electrical permits and all the work done by homeowner. This is where you will typically find poor workmanship and even life safety issues which could have shocking results.
Plumbing – Water runs downhill, should be pretty simple, but that is not always the case. Although seeming a pretty simple task plumbing is definitely beyond the scope of some people. Improper venting is probably one of the most common deficiencies found when inspecting a home which has had renovations. Missing traps on plumbing drain lines is also quite a common occurrence even though it can allow sewer gas into your home. Many people are unaware that your washing machine is required to have an air gap at the drain to prevent siphoning. Improper Tee used on toilet drain lines are also quite common, the list just goes on and on.
Building Permit – If a home has been renovated and no building permit was taken out, you can safely assume that the hidden electrical, plumbing and building envelope were not inspected prior to being enclosed. Your home inspector will advise you of the possibilities but ultimately it is your decision, which you base on information given to you. Remember, CAVEAT EMPTOR – BUYER BEWARE, once you move in it is hard, if not impossible, to get any repairs done or money back from the seller.
As part of your home inspection you can have a wood burning appliance WETT Certified for only $75.00. Most insurance companies now require you to have your Fireplace, Wood Stove or Pellet Stove inspected by a WETT Certifed Inspector prior to issuing you a home insurance policy.
Call Roger at 705-795-8255 or Toll Free at 888-818-8601
Most homes have gutters installed to collect and discharge water away from our home. Without gutters water would splash when hitting the ground and possibly enter our basements. For every inch of rain that falls on a roof of 1,000 square feet, you can expect to collect and drain approximately 600 gallons of rainwater. Improper drainage is probably one of the main causes of water penetrating into basements.
Installing gutters is easier now with rolled seamless aluminum eaves trough being the most popular type for new homes. Sectional gutters are typically for the Do It Yourself type of installation. The joints in a sectional gutter system will eventually leak. For proper drainage you should ensure your gutter slopes a minimum of 1/2 inch for every 10 feet of gutter. When your length of gutter exceeds 40 feet you should raise the gutter in the center and slope down to opposite downspout locations. This is why it is important to plan your gutter and downspout drain locations prior to starting job. Many new home designers do not take winter into consideration, and as you often find in Barrie ON home inspections, you end up with downspouts discharging onto sidewalk and driveway walking areas.
When selecting your gutter you most likely will have a number of options to choose from. The most common options are material, profile, size, production, and coating. Many new homes and replacement roofs are using steel or metal roofing material. One downside to metal roofing is that snow and ice tend to start sliding off these roofs in fairly large sheets. Many metal roofs have snow guards or other devices which break up the sliding snow and ice before it leaves the roof. The snow and ice slides can rip your gutters right off your fascia even with snow guards installed and many home owners opt for the more expensive steel gutters rather than the aluminum gutter for this very reason. Vinyl and plastic gutters are usually not installed by professionals and are generally considered a waste of money. Seals tend to leak at joints and they quickly degrade in sunlight.
The lower edge of your shingles should extend beyond the fascia board by about 3/4 inch so that runoff drains into the gutters. If the overhang is too short, water will drip behind the gutter, resulting in rotted roof sheathing and fascia, water stains of your siding, and even soil erosion and a flooded basement. Fix this problem by installing sheet-metal drip edge, which is installed under the first course of roof shingles. Most professional roofers will install this product when shingling your roof.
If you have lots of trees around your home you probably have to clean your gutters on a regular basis. Many home owners in the Barrie On area are choosing to protect their gutters with one of the many forms of gutter protection available today. These gutter protection systems range from a clip in screen to a complete cover which allows water to run over the edge and back into gutter, keeping gutters free from leaves and other debris.
Gutter Inspection & Cleaning
Unless you are used to climbing ladders we recommend you hire a professional company to inspect and clean your gutters. Many seniors opt for installing a gutter guard which prevents debris from entering and blocking gutters.
Most people never know they have mice in their attic until they have a home inspection. In the Barrie area I would estimate that 95% of the brick homes inspected with fiberglass or rock wool insulation have signs of rodents living in the attic. Some attics have so many trails through the insulation it looks almost like a normal pattern. Home buyers are surprised to learn that mice can climb brick walls with ease and only need a gap of 1/4 inch to gain entry into your attic. Come winter time your warm cozy attic would seem like Florida to a mouse.
The average mouse has about 5 to 10 litters in a year and it only takes a month for the young mice to become independent. If left un-checked your attic could easily become overrun with mice. Since mice are nocturnal you may even catch sight of one entering your attic area around dusk when they will be out foraging for food and water. Your attics is a desirable location to a mouse. Attics are protected from the elements, are free from predators and are much cleaner than the hole in the ground their less fortunate mouse-cousins live in.
The three methods of preventing or getting rid of mouse problems is to seal, trim and trap.
Seal – Go over the complete exterior of your home, paying particular attention to any dark areas, and seal any gap 1/4 inch or larger. Heavy materials are recommended such as mortar, sheet metal or heavy gauge hardware cloth. Use a powerful flashlight to illuminate any dark areas, if it stays black then it is a hole, which requires sealing.
Trim – Trim tree limbs at least 4’ away from roofs, attic vents, eaves, and utility wires. Trim and thin ground covers and allow approximately 12 inches of open area under plants.
Trap – Trapping is an effective means of controlling rodents. Snap and glue traps can be purchased at nurseries and hardware stores and are most effective when placed in rodent runways between harborage and feeding areas. There are many scams out there which claim to rid your home of mice. Ultra sonic wave devices, although sellers claim success, most studies have found them completely ineffective. Using poison or bait can also leave your attic with rotting carcasses. Most experts agree that placing your trap near entrances and pathways will produce the best result.
Mice an carry up to 30 diseases which can affect humans and pets alike. To clean up your attic after removing mice mix a biocide solution, whether commercial or bleach water at the ratio of 10 parts water to one part household bleach. Enter the attic and, wearing a HEPA filter mask, use a spray bottle or similar to douse the insulation surface and any objects where mouse droppings are present. Wait a few minutes. Not only does water help weigh down microscopic particles that become airborne when disturbed, but the bleach or disinfectant kills germs, viruses and bacteria on contact.
