Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems is an insulating, decorative and protective finish system for exterior walls that can be installed on any type of construction. It is the only exterior wall covering that insulates and provides weather protection in a selection of shapes, colors, and textures that can replicate almost any architectural style or finish material, or stand by itself as an architectural finish. While similar in appearance to stucco, EIFS is an exterior cladding system that consists of components and installation requirements very different from traditional stucco (see Figure 1 – Sectional View of a Typical EIFS Application). EIFS also requires very different care and maintenance than its “look-alike” cousin, traditional stucco.
In 1952, two significant developments took place that led to the development of EIFS in Europe. The first patent was granted for expanded polystyrene (EPS) insulation board and the first synthetic plaster, an organic plaster using water based binders, was developed. The use of EPS and synthetic resin materials together began in the late 1950s and in 1963
EIFS was marketed in Europe. EIFS answered a need in the European construction market for a material that could insulate older masonry structures and enhance their appearance. In Europe, the use of EIFS on stud/sheathing walls is rare, as most European buildings have solid masonry walls. European concrete or masonry substrates can function as exterior walls without the EIFS. European EIFS tend to have thicker and coarser finishes, which provides for better waterproofing. The systems used in Europe also feature the use of less portland cement and a higher resin content in the base coat, giving the system more flexibility and water resistance, albeit at greater cost.
The technology for EIFS was transferred to the United States in 1969, when Rhode Island-based Dryvit Systems, Inc. introduced EIFS in the U.S. During the oil crisis of the early and mid 1970s, EIFS becomes popular with energy-conscientious builders and buyers, who sometimes see energy bills halved. EIFS began by being used almost exclusively in the commercial building market, and was only gradually adopted for use in homes. By 1980, EIFS cladding accounted for one-half of 1 percent of the residential housing market, and by 1995 nearly 200 million square feet (18,580,608 m2) of EIFS were being installed annually on exterior walls in North America.
Also, in 1995, the industry suffered a setback when a number of EIFS clad homes in the Wilmington, North Carolina area were discovered with moisture damage behind the cladding. The damage was caused by poor construction detailing and practices, principally, the omission or improper installation of flashing in violation of minimum standards of construction set forth in building codes. A federal and several state class action lawsuits were filed, only one of which was certified (in the State of North Carolina). The North Carolina class action was settled by manufacturers. While the original problems were discovered first in North Carolina, it is really a nationwide issue.
In March of 1999, the NAHB (National Association of Home Builders) Research Center listed the most common problems they found that were associated with water intrusion in EIF systems as being:
Windows, Doors, Electrical Outlets Roof Flashings
Deck Flashings
Below Grade Installation
Projections, Vents
The NAHB commissioned study went on to state:
“. . .homes surveyed ages two to six are experiencing structural damage due to excessive moisture buildup within walls. The cause of the moisture accumulation is rain water intrusion from a combination of factors including: improper sealing at joints and around windows, doors, and other penetrations; improperly sloped horizontal EIFS surfaces; inadequate flashing at roof lines, dormers, decks, etc.; and window frames that leak into wall cavities.”
What Is EIFS (Exterior Insulated Finish Systems)?
While giving the appearance of stucco, EIFS is actually a multi-layered wall system that consists of the following components: Insulation Board – Made of polystyrene (or similar material), which is secured to the exterior wall surface. Base Coat – Applied on top of the insulation and reinforced with fiber mesh. Finish Coat – Applied on top of the base coat giving a durable, crack-resistant finish.
The first half of the acronym, “Exterior Insulation” is derived from the fact that the first component installed is a foam insulation board. The foam board is mechanically and/or adhesively attached to the exterior sheathing of the home. In this respect the foam board serves as an exterior insulating layer. Over this foam board is applied a synthetic base-coat material in which is embedded a fiberglass reinforcing mesh. This is typically referred to as the “base-coat”. On top of the base coat is applied one or more “finish coats”. This is the exterior layer that gives the product its stucco-like appearance. Hence the second part of the acronym “Finish Systems“.
EFIS provides many advantages that other exterior finishes and sidings do not. Chief among these are superior energy efficiency and great design flexibility. As a matter of fact, studies have shown that EIFS can reduce the air infiltration in a wall by as much as 55%, when compared to standard brick or wood construction. One should bear in mind that an EIFS system is a non-structural component of the wall. In other words, it is not designed to be weight bearing.
Most early EIFS employed a face seal approach to rainwater management, and was thus very susceptible to failure. Because of these early problems, most EIFS now incorporates some sort of a drainage plane to allow for moisture drainage. Newer installations incorporating this design could be considered concealed barrier systems. However, due to the nature of the product and the realities of the construction process, even newer drainage EIFS systems can experience problems:
“Short-cuts” are often taken in the application of EIFS systems, causing the primary face seal moisture barrier to fail and leak (lack of proper caulking, flashing, etc.).
The integrity of the second line of defense is highly dependent on correct detailing by the designer and proper installation by the builder and his subcontractors. Very often, flashings, housewrap, windows, doors, etc., are improperly installed.
EIFS does not breathe and will not allow trapped moisture to evaporate easily, which can cause great damage over time.
Because EIFS (Exterior Insulated Finish Systems) rely on a perfect seal at the exterior surfaces, they are susceptible to entrapment of moisture inside the system. Water can enter the system where seams and seals fail, where moisture migrates from inside the building and where punched openings (windows, doors, etc.) are present. Because of the low vapor permeability of the finish, water trapped behind the EIFS cannot dry out quickly toward the outside of the wall (see figure 1). Depending on the rest of the wall system design and installation, there may also be limited drying potential to the inside. Limited drying potential in combination with high leakage potential can lead to moisture buildup inside the wall, and eventually to mold growth and structural decay.
Why Most EIFS Have Failures
Since EIFS clearly provides many advantages, what’s the big deal? The basic problem begins with the erroneous belief that homes can be made to be “water proof”. The simple truth is, they cannot. For example, even when applied by professional caulking applicators, All caulk joints will eventually fail. . . .even those caulk joints made under laboratory conditions. No residential windows are fully waterproof. . . .they are designed and manufactured to a water-resistant standard. Some water will always find a way in. When it can’t get out, you have a problem.
Why Can EIFS Be A Problem?
Homes clad with EIFS (Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems) a.k.a. synthetic stucco have a very strong tendency to retain moisture between the sheathing of the home and the finish system. The design of EIFS, unlike other systems (brick, stone, siding, etc.), does not allow the moisture to drain out. The problem is water intrusion and entrapment in the wall cavities. The moisture can sit in contact with the sheathing for a prolonged period and rotting may result. Damage can be serious.
While a brick or stone wall will contain an internal drainage plane behind it and weep holes along the bottom edge to allow for water drainage, moisture intruding into the EIFS wall cavities is more damaging because it cannot readily escape back out through the waterproof EIFS exterior as quickly as it can through brick veneer, stone, or cement stucco, leaving the internal sheathing and wood framing vulnerable to rot and decay.
Successful installation of EIFS depends upon keeping water out of the wall cavities. Consequently, in an effort to keep the water out, an industry-wide installation standard was developed that details installation procedures to be followed. In conjunction with this, the EIFS manufacturers then trained and certified applicators to install their products and supplied them with materials which met specification standards.
But, here is where the system begins to break down, because unfortunately, the manufacturers failed to take into account the realities of residential construction:
Barrier type systems rarely work. The EIFS external barrier system depends upon a perfect external water barrier to keep water out of wall cavities. Since the outer shell is the only barrier against water intrusion, it must form a “perfect” barrier at “all times.” When there are so many entry points for water intrusion in the exterior shell of a house, this is an unrealistic expectation.
Lack of inspection and enforcement of standards. Most manufacturers, unrealistically expected that the building industry on its own (including public inspection departments), would maintain industry standards & specifications, provide oversight, and provide inspection of the EIF system as it was installed. Everyone thought that someone else was minding the store, consequently, the vast majority of EIFS applications nation-wide, have never been inspected. Compounding this problem is the fact that the EIFS manufacturers have failed to insist upon the very standards they helped originate, be met by the applicators they supply materials to.
Evolution of application guidelines. Another consideration is that guidelines for EIFS installation have been evolving over the years. An example of this is below grade termination of the EIFS. While not allowed by building code, early on, it was allowed by some manufacturers specifications. However, due to problems with this type of application nation-wide, in 1996 Dryvit Corp (one of the largest EIFS manufacturers), changed all of its specifications to require an 8 inch separation be left between the EIFS and soil (termite problems in the South & carpenter ants in the North, moisture wicking up into the EIFS, frost damage, inability of the EIFS to drain water away if it is buried, etc.). Unfortunately, this type of new information has been slow to “trickle down” through the information chain (from the manufacturer è distributor è applicator). Some distributors even claim their insulation-board doesn’t wick water, and consequently can be placed below grade (experience shows that it does, however).
Leaks and damage are hidden from view. There are few, if any, external visual clues to an early leakage problem. As a matter of fact, it can take years for an intermittent leak to evidence itself as damaged sheathing, window leaks, rotted framing, mold growth, etc. Many insurance companies, builders, and applicators may not take a leakage problem seriously, until they can actually see the damage. The reason for this “mind-set” is understandable, because no one wants to be responsible to pay for repairs that may be unnecessary. Unfortunately, by waiting until a problem is noticeable as visible damage, the word repair can become the word replace. What was once a relatively inexpensive repair has become a very expensive replacement.
Problems With Secondary Weather Barrier and the Inability To Drain
Most wood-framed residential homes require a secondary weather barrier to be placed over the sheathing before the exterior cladding is installed. This barrier protects the home from incidental water intrusion and allows moisture to exit the home by traveling on top of the barrier, keeping the sheathing and structural members relatively dry. Eliminating a barrier and rendering a substrate unprotected invites trouble, no matter what type of exterior cladding is used.
Due to the design of the EIFS, a majority of EIFS clad homes built before 1997 do not have a secondary weather barrier placed over the exterior sheathing. A large number of EIFS applications use an adhesive to fasten the two-foot by four-foot insulation boards to the sheathing. If an adhesive is used to hold the insulation boards to the sheathing, then a secondary weather barrier cannot be used. Any water that infiltrates the system will become trapped between the EIFS and the sheathing.
It is estimated that 95 percent of homes clad with EIFS in the United States are barrier-type. Most barrier EIFS projects are adhesively applied because it is less time consuming to install. Adhesively applied EIFS prohibits a vapor barrier from being installed. It also prevents many self-flashing windows from being installed properly since the sill flashing must be cut off to accommodate the adhesively attached foam board.
EIFS homes built before 1997 have a greater chance for moisture intrusion problems. Newer EIFS homes built since 1997 using “drainage EIFS” may have a reduced chance of moisture intrusion, but are not immune.
Lack Of Applicator Training
EIFS must be purchased from an EIFS distributor. The manufacturer or distributor trains applicators and issues certificates stating that the applicator has been properly trained. It is the responsibility of the distributor to ensure that EIFS is sold only to those certified applicators.
Not Following Manufactures Installation Guidelines
Deviations from Industry Standard guidelines during installation, is likely the largest contributor to EIFS cladding problems. EIFS application requires the strict observance of manufacturer recommended specifications and guidelines, and involves meticulous workmanship and attention to detail. When improperly applied, the EIFS cladding does not perform its intended function and can allow water to infiltrate behind the cladding, where it becomes trapped.
Due to the lessons learned during the early years of the industry, around 1996 set of “Installation Details” were developed by EIMA (EIFS Industry Members Association), that have since become the industry installation standard. Each manufacturer may have its own specific requirements as well. EIFS Installation Details are procedures outlined by the EIFS manufacturer that provide guidance to the architect, builder and applicator as to the proper installation of the product. All EIFS manufacturers have details and procedures that builders and applicators are expected to follow. Installation details are typically very similar among EIFS products and EIFS manufacturers, but there are differences.
A common misconception among some applicators is that the “Installation Details” are designed for specific parts of the country, exposed to certain weather conditions, and not to them. This couldn’t be farther from the truth, and has led to some expensive repairs having to be made. The Installation Details were designed to be used industry-wide, and are applicable whether the installation is in a northern cold climate, or southern warm climate. One should never make the mistake of dismissing as being insignificant, even some of the smaller deviations from the accepted industry installation standards. Unfortunately, there is a long history of applicators having done this in the past. . .to their great regret later on when the bills come due to pay for replacing the entire exterior. When installed properly, many EIF systems can perform well. However, EIFS is a very unforgiving product and even the smallest short-cut in installation standards and quality of components, can lead to big problems down the road.
The problem we face now is, sometimes an individual contractor may fail to fully follow the manufacturer’s installation guidelines. Often times only a portion of the guidelines are followed, materials from different manufacturers are inter-mixed, etc. This can allow moisture into the wall system. Once the moisture is in it can’t get out, which can lead to wood rot. Some of the more common installation “short-cuts” are listed below:
Foam insulation placed below grade. Prior to recent building code changes, the foam board insulation used in EIFS was placed on the wall below grade. It was discovered that foam in contact with the ground causes conditions conducive to pest infestations (termites, carpenter ants, etc.). With EIFS-clad homes, the visible evidence of infestation is blocked from view by the exterior siding. In fact, the exterior siding typically looks pristine and shows no signs of any problems. Behind the EIFS cladding, pests can live in a protected environment and then establish themselves inside the home.
Another problem with placing the foam below grade is the ability of water vapor to migrate upwards through the foam. When the temperature rises at the transition from masonry to wood, the water vapor condenses and causes water to settle on the sill plates and exterior band joist. If this water does not evaporate quickly, wood rot can set in and decay the structural members of the home.
Improperly flashed & caulked windows. Window leaks account for the majority of water damage in EIFS houses. The EIFS itself isn’t usually leaking; instead, water is entering between the window and the EIFS, or the window itself is leaking water. The solution requires a window flashing that works, as well as a correctly detailed joint between the window and the EIFS wall. Wherever a window, a door, or an electrical or plumbing fixture interrupts the EIFS surface, a proper joint must be constructed, that integrates a reliable flashing into the secondary weather barrier.
A very important component that is often missing in window detailing is the backer rod. The backer rod serves two functions: First, it prevents the caulk bead from adhering to the back of the joint, allowing the caulk to flex in response to thermal expansion and contraction and other building movements. If the backer rod is omitted, the caulk will adhere to the back of the joint as well as the sides, limiting its ability to stretch and guaranteeing premature failure. Second, it controls the thickness of the finished application of caulk, which should ideally be about half as thick as it is wide. More often than not, though, the caulk and backer rod are never applied at all. It is important to keep in mind that no residential windows are waterproof, they are designed and manufactured to a water-resistant standard. The very best windows allow some water into the wall cavity through their own joints, and “construction grade” windows may leak a great deal. The quality of windows installed with the EIFS is directly related to the amount of water that will infiltrate. For example, wood windows perform poorly, while welded seam vinyl windows perform substantially better than other window types. EIFS homes cannot be made totally “water proof”, and windows will leak. Regardless of how well the backer rod/sealant method seals the joints between window and the edge of the EIFS wall, windows will leak at some point (even those caulk joints made under laboratory conditions by EIFS industry engineers will eventually fail).
Flashings missing or improperly installed. are an important element in protecting your house from leakage, and should be utilized to properly direct water away from the structure. Some of the more common locations where they are required are: deck ledger boards, kick-out flashing at roof / wall intersections, at window and door heads, headers and other horizontal surfaces, etc. All too often, flashings are not installed, or installed improperly.
Roof termination. EIFS should be held off of roof a minimum of two (2) inches and backwrapped.
Expansion joints at dissimilar materials. Expansion-joints should be used where EIFS terminates, or meets a dissimilar material. The typical expansion joint is a flexible, watertight joint utilizing, backer rod and sealant. Expansion joints are typically 1/2 inch in width.
Backwrapping. Where the foam substrate terminates, it should be backwrapped, in order to provide for proper protection of the foam. Backwrapping also provides for improved attachment of the substrate to the sheathing.
Horizontal Surfaces: Trim Bands Quoins. There should be no horizontal (flat) surfaces. All surfaces should slope away from the structure.
Shared Responsibilities
An EIFS applicator is responsible for the application process-attaching the foam insulation to the substrate, applying the fiberglass mesh, embedding the fiberglass mesh with base coat and applying a finish coat. EIFS installers have little control over construction details designed to prevent water intrusion into wall cavities from roofs, even including those details which are required by some state building codes and by the specifications of the EIFS manufacturers. Many details outlined by manufacturers require the services of other tradesmen. A typical EIFS applicator does not install backer rods and sealant, but should install the EIFS so that it is possible to install these critical components. The builder is responsible for subcontracting the backer rod and sealant components. Flashing around windows, doors, decks, chimneys and roofs is the responsibility of the builder and his roofer. Unless the builder required the roofing subcontractor to install step flashing and (EIFS required) kickouts, it probably was not done.
The applicator should recognize improper flashing and not continue the application process until the problem is corrected. Unfortunately, this also slows down the overall building process. . .costing the home builder extra money. It doesn’t take an applicator long to recognize that an unhappy home builder may NOT call him to bid on the next project. According to the National Association of Home Builders Research Center,
Pressure Differentials
EIFS is basically a face-sealed system. The system relies on a water and airtight seal over the entire wall system. When this is achieved, an air cavity is created between the exterior sheathing behind the EIFS and the interior of the home. Positive air pressure changes caused by wind on the exterior of the home create a negative pressure in the wall cavity. Any breach in the barrier EIFS system will force air through that opening and into the wall cavity. When rain is introduced in this scenario, water (in its liquid form or as vapor), not air, is forced through any breach in the barrier EIFS. Many researchers indicate that the difference in pressure differentials is responsible for the majority of the water intrusions in face-sealed systems. Other wall claddings such as brick, lap siding, shingles and traditional stucco allow air to infiltrate, thus rendering the positive force applied to the building to be balanced.
Lack of Care and Maintenance
The beautiful architectural designs made possible by synthetic stucco systems make these homes very desirable and marketable. It is critical, however, to carefully maintain these systems to prevent water intrusion and deterioration. It is very important that the six following steps be followed to protect your investment.
Home Owners Responsibilities
Annually inspect all sealant around windows, doors, penetrations through the EIFS, EIFS transitions (such as EIFS to brick, EIFS to stone), and stucco terminations (at roof, at grade, at patios or walkways). Arrange for prompt repair of any areas of caulk that is split, cracking, crazing or is losing adhesion. Also, promptly repair any cracks in the EIFS.
Any leaks, cracks, areas of discoloration, mold or mildew should be promptly investigated by a certified EIFS inspector. Repairs should be proper and prompt.
Anytime you make a penetration through the EIFS such as to mount a satellite dish, add shutters, new wiring, cables, plumbing, security systems, etc., the perimeters must be sealed with a quality sealant approved for EIFS.
Modifications, additions or renovations (including roof replacement) to the structure of any kind should be inspected by a qualified EIFS inspector to ensure waterproofing of critical details is properly performed.
Periodic cleaning of the surface is necessary to maintain its appearance and prevent permanent staining. Pressure cleaning equipment must be calibrated to the EIFS manufacturer’s recommended pressure level (low) to prevent damage. Select a firm with experience in cleaning these EIFS systems. There are no products that are totally maintenance free, and EIFS is no different.
Maintenance Schedule. I would recommend setting up a maintenance schedule with an EIFS specialist to carefully inspect the exterior for damage, about every 1-2 years. Any needed repairs should be made at that time (usually just re-caulking, etc.). EIFS is the type of system where it is very important to catch any problems early-on.
The Fire Code is a subset of the Building Code. It prescribes construction and safety issues as they relate to how the building is required to perform should it catch fire. A significant distinction with the fire code is that it can apply retroactively.
The Fire Code can be applied retroactively A new Fire Code was developed that applies to specifically to basement apartments. The code applies to all basement apartments whether existing or new. Owners must ensure that their apartment complies with the new Fire Code and must obtain a certificate of compliance.
There are usually four components of the Inspection that must be met:
1. Fire Containment or Separation of Suites
2. Fire alarms – Units must have working smoke alarms
3. Egress – There must be safe way out for occupants.
4. Electrical – Must have ESA inspection.
By-laws are created in some municipalities to prevent basement apartments as a nuisance protection for the neighbours.
Basement Apartments – The History
After 1993, a permit was required to change a home from single family to multi-family.
In 1994, the government in Ontario said that we could ignore local bylaws that prohibited second dwelling units in houses if certain conditions were met.
In 1994, the province set new Fire Code rules for basement apartments. A deadline was established for all existing basement apartments to upgrade to the new fire code.
In 1995, the Provincial government told municipalities that they could enforce their bylaws regarding basement apartments. A grand-fathering clause says that apartments existing before November 1995 do not have to meet local bylaws.
TWO-UNIT HOUSES (SECOND SUITES) Barrie ON – Local By-law
WHAT IS A TWO-UNIT HOUSE?
A two-unit house is a building that contains two residential dwelling units. Commonly, a two-unit house starts as a single dwelling unit (detached, semidetached or townhouse) with a second dwelling unit created within the house later on. The second unit is sometimes referred to as a second suite, an inlaw suite or a basement apartment. Duplexes & semi-detached units located on the same property are also considered as two-unit houses.
Effective January 1, 2004 the City of Barrie requires every two-unit house within the city to be registered. As part of the registration process, the City will confirm that the two-unit house is legal under the City’s Zoning By-law, and that the house complies with several health and safety regulations.
WHY DO TWO_UNIT HOUSES NEED TO BE REGISTERED?
There are probably a couple thousand two-unit houses in the city. Concerned that many of these units may be illegal and/or unsafe for the occupants, the City of Barrie has adopted a by-law to require every two-unit house to be registered. Through the registration process the house will be inspected to confirm compliance with the Zoning By-law, the Building Code, the Fire Code and the Property Standards By-law. Any unregistered two-unit house is a contravention of the Registration By-law.
HOW OFTEN DO I HAVE TO REGISTER?
Registration of a two-unit house is a one-time event. Under the current legislation, you do not have to re-register, unless your registration was revoked.
CAN THE CITY REVOKE BY REGISTRATION?
Yes. The registration does not need to be renewed, but you must always continue to maintain your building in compliance with Part 2 of the Fire Code and with the Property Maintenance By-law. If your building is inspected, usually at the invitation of a disgruntled tenant, and contraventions of the maintenance regulations are found, you will be served an order to remedy the contraventions within a time limit. If you do not make the repairs within the time specified, you may face penalties under either the Fire Code or the Property Standards By-law. In addition, the registrar may revoke your registration. Any continued use of the house as a two-unit house without being registered would be a separate violation, subject to its own penalties. Registration can also be revoked if the house ceases to be used as a two-unit house. Applications to re-register a two-unit house would be subject to the rules and fees in effect at that time.
Toronto’s Second Suites By-law
On July 6, 2000, the City of Toronto’s new “second suites bylaw (493-2000)” came into effect. This bylaw permits second suites in all single-detached and semi-detached houses throughout the City of Toronto, with certain conditions.
Some of the conditions include:
• the second suite must be self-contained with its own kitchen and bathroom;
• the house, including any additions, must be at least five years old;
• the floor area of the second suite must be smaller than the remaining part of the house;
• in most cases, a home with a second suite must have at least two parking spaces;
• all existing second suites must comply with the Ontario Fire Code, zoning and property standards
For prospective purchasers of these properties, once the legality of the apartment has been established, then it must be insured that it meets health and fire standards. This can be established by the production of a “Letter of Compliance” from the local Fire Department or the municipality. If this inspection has never been done, or was done a great length of time ago, you may wish to have an Independent Fire Code Inspector report on the conditions to-day.
Retrofit legislation calls for the maintenance of the fire safety measures originally built into these two family units. If proper compliance is not indicated at this time you may wish to negotiate with the vendor to perform these upgrades prior to closing, or you may wish to adjust the price accordingly and do the work yourself.
Ontario Fire Code Information
Owners of houses containing two self-contained residential units (dwelling units) are now required to bring their buildings into compliance with the new fire safety regulation adopted under the Ontario Fire Code. Tenants in these buildings are entitled to ask their landlords to make sure that the fire regulations are met.
Some of these Regulations are summarized below.
1.0 What is a Dwelling Unit ?
A dwelling unit is a room or suite of rooms operated as a self-contained housekeeping unit that includes independent cooking, eating, living, sleeping and bathroom facilities.
2.0 Buildings Covered by the New Fire Code Regulation ?
The regulation applies to detached houses, and semi-detached houses, and row houses that contain two existing dwelling units. The two dwelling units may be located anywhere in the house.
3.0 What are the Requirements ?
In general, the regulation contained in the Ontario Fire Code addresses four fire safety issues:
3.1 Fire separation
The owner has three options for compliance with the fire separation for each dwelling unit
3.2 Means of Escape.
Four options are provided for compliance with the means of escape from each dwelling unit.
3.3 Smoke Alarms
Depending on the option selected for fire separation and means of escape, it may be necessary to install electrically wired, interconnected smoke alarms throughout the house. Interconnected smoke alarms are designed to sound simultaneously when any one smoke alarm is activated, providing early warning to all occupants of the house at the same time.
Where interconnected smoke alarms are not installed, every dwelling unit must be equipped with a battery operated or electrically wired smoke alarm on every floor level that contains a bedroom or sleeping area.
All smoke alarms must be maintained in working condition, and they must be audible in the bedrooms when the bedroom door is closed.
3.4 Electrical Safety
The owner must also arrange for the house to be inspected by “the Electrical Safety Authority” and to correct all fire safety hazards identified through this inspection.
4.0 Who is Responsible With Complying With the Regulation ?
The owner is responsible for complying with the provisions of the Ontario Fire Code. Penalties for non-compliance can be up to $50,000 fines and up to one year in prison for individuals.
Owners should be aware that bringing existing houses into compliance with the new regulation may require repairs or alterations for which a building permit is needed under the Building Code Act.
Every municipality and city has different by-laws regarding second suites or basement apartments, ensure you consult with yours before making your investment decision.
This year during my inspections in Barrie I noticed a lot of people were draining their eavestrough into drain lines, some into french drains and some into low areas away from their homes. This winter has been exceptionally different as we have had freezing rain followed by snow and then cold temperatures. The always changing weather has created a lot of problems for drainage.
I visited a home a couple of weeks ago because of water entering the basement. What I found was a rear drain pipe had been installed and the eavestrough pipe fed into the drain pipe. This is a great set up in the summer, spring and fall but is a recipe for disaster in the winter.
This particular drain pipe has frozen up completely blocking any drainage. The water then backed up the drain and overflowed against the foundation of the home. The basement window was located adjacent to the drain and the water seeped through the window well and filled the drain with soil. The water then filled up the window well and leaked through the window and down the basement wall. Lucky there was no furniture and the wall only had insulation and vapour barrier installed, which was easily dried out.
A quick solution for this an other eavestrough freezing problems is this; install an open plumbing T, I used PVC but ABS will do also, at the end of your downspout and before your drain line. This will allow water to drain out the open T when the drain line freezes, thus preventing backup and freezing of downspouts and eventually your whole eavestrough. You can add a short drain to this T if water needs to be directed away from foundations or windows etc., common sense will guide you here. This fix is permanent and need not be removed, just install and forget it.
The first step in checking furnace filter is to check and make sure your filter is properly sized for your furnace. Ensure that the filter completely fills the holding area, with no gaps at top, bottom or sides. Also the filter should be thick enough to seal off any avenues for air to bypass the filter. You can typically look at the filter in place by removing bottom panel of furnace. This should only be done once power is shut off. Newer furnaces have a safety switch on their fan compartments but turning power off is always advised.
Another item to check is your owner’s manual for the furnace and check that you have the right style of filter for your furnace. Some people buy universal re-usable filters that might provide too much resistance for the modern high-efficiency furnaces used today. If no manual is available check on the internet for manufactures site and look up specifications for model of furnace you have. If no specifications are available, send them an email, most companies gladly provide information on requests from customers.
Clean or replace your disposable furnace filter periodically, during the winter, check the filter monthly. Brush and vacuum the heat exchanger surfaces every year, if recommended by your owner’s manual. Before the heating season, clean the blower blades and seal any air leaks in ducts with several wraps of duct tape. (use the metallic duct tape only)
Types of Filters
Pleated – Experts typically recommend this type of filter as a bare minimum requirement. Pleated filters should also include the metal wire to perform electrostatic dust control. The pleat feature allows greater filtration because of greater surface area which creates less air restriction. Disposable fiberglass filters – These filter are the least expensive – and also the least effective, designed to block only large dust and dirt particles to protect your furnace. Smaller particles, like pollen and mold, pass right through. Electronic air cleaners Electronic air cleaners are expensive but are the best at removing harmful particles and pollutants from the air. In many cases, the initial cost can be offset with lower medical bills for allergy suffers.
Filter Ratings
What is an efficiency or MERV rating?
Most filters are labeled with a MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value) rating number, which measures a filter’s ability to trap particles ranging in size from 3.0 microns to 10.0 microns. This number is derived from a test method designed by the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) and is intended to help people compare filters.
Residential filters commonly have MERV ratings of 1-11. The higher the MERV rating, the more efficient the filter is, and the more particles it can filter.
A MERV rating of 6 means the filter is 35% to 50% minimum efficient at capturing particles, sized 3.0-10.0 microns.
A MERV rating of 8 means the filter is 70% to 85% minimum efficient at capturing particles, sized 3.0-10.0 microns.
A MERV rating of 11 means the filter is 85% to 95% minimum efficient at capturing particles, sized 3.0-10.0 microns.
MERV is an industry standard rating, so it can be used to compare filters made by different companies.
A little maintenance goes a long way toward keeping your forced-air equipment working properly. Start by cleaning or replacing the filter. With forced-air furnace systems, air returning to the furnace’s blower first passes through an air filter designed to catch dust and debris and help clean the air before it’s recycled to your home.
On new homes, check all your ducts by removing grills and vacuuming any debris that you can reach. If extremely dirty, notify the builder and have him clean the ducts. This is only possible on new construction and ducts should be inspected on your Pre-Delivery Inspection.
When typical filters become clogged with debris, they cut down on a furnace’s efficiency and, over time, can cause parts to wear out faster. Change filters quarterly or sooner if they look dirty. Pleated fabric filters are a good, inexpensive choice for reducing dust and allergens. Most experts recommend a pleated filter with wire for electrostatic performance. If you buy filters that are 3 for $10.00 then you probably could read a book looking through them, so you can imagine how useful they would be. Also check your manufactures recommendations before installing a washable filter, some type restrict too much air on high-efficiency furnaces and may cause premature failure of fan motor.
Steps to changing your furnace filter:
1) Turn off the power to the unit. Every furnace is required to have shut off switch.
2) Look for the door or panel that conceals the blower; sometimes this is marked “Filter.” Lift this door or panel off of its holding hooks or unscrew its retaining screws to remove it. Some furnaces have a custom sized filter which is held in place by wire screen in bottom compartment of furnace.
3) Standard filters are mounted next to or under the blower motor. Newer furnaces have the filter installed on exterior of furnace on supply side. A good installation will have a metal cover over side of filter to prevent air leakage. Remove cover and slide the filter out along its tracks. Check to see whether it is a disposable filter or intended to be cleaned and replaced–this should be marked on the filter’s edge, along with directions for cleaning if applicable. If it’s a disposable filter, its size will probably be printed on the frame’s edge also. Make a note of its size.
4) Buy a replacement and slide it back into place, noting that arrows stamped on the side indicate the proper direction of airflow; be sure you face these in the proper direction. If your smoke detectors or carbon-monoxide detectors start going off after cleaning your filter, you have installed the filter facing the wrong direction. Remove and reverse filter, this will resolve your detector alarm problem.
If someone in your family has allergies and you move to a new home that had pets living in it, cleaning your ducts might be advisable to remove build up which will then allow your filter to perform to its optimum ability. The most recommended type of duct cleaning is with brushes, which are sized according to the duct they are cleaning. This will allow filter to prevent dust and particles from circulating in your home.
Firestopping is installed mainly in large building but may be found in small residential multi-family units etc. Firestopping is installed in strategic locations to resist the passage of fire from one area to another. One use of firestopping is to maintain the integrity of fires separations such as penetrations by pipes, wires or other building services. The second purpose is to limit the size of concealed spaces as found in stud walls, attics, crawl spaces, and spaces in between the superstructure and exterior building envelope.
Firestop systems are rated based on tests in accordance with CAN4-S115-M, “Standard Method of Fire Tests of Firestop Systems. Four ratings ( F, FT, FH and FTH) are assigned based on test results.
Firewalls are a special type of masonry or concrete fire separation that subdivide a building into two or more entities with a fire-resistance rating from between 2 to 4 hours. Firewalls are usually used by designers to limit size of individual areas to allow for cheaper construction costs by eliminating need for expensive fire-protection equipment such as sprinklers etc. This procedure does not apply to fire alarm or detection system however as this is based on entire buildings “gross area.”
Flame Spread and Interior Finishes is the measurement of the surface characteristics of materials used in finishing buildings. Buildings are broken down into three categories which are combustible construction, non-combustible construction and high rise buildings. This is broken down into a further sub-category of whether building is sprinklered or not. The Ontario Building Code provides tables which provides the rules that govern finishes on walls, ceilings, surface – rating applies to surface only and cut test – which applies to any surface that can be exposed by cutting.
The importance of fire protection has been proven over and over again when lives have been lost in large buildings whose fire protection equipment has been either compromised or disabled for various reasons. One large fire in a high rise, which started in café on first floor, which contributed to lost lives, was blamed on missing fire-stopping. Such a small failure can have disastrous consequences.
This is our second article on large buildings based on requirements of the Ontario Building Code. We will be endeavouring to provide basic information which we use on inspecting large buildings. Municipal inspectors are not permitted to inspect buildings that they do not hold qualifications for but there is no such restriction in place for commercial building inspectors. Caveat Emptor – Buyer Beware
The Barrie Home Inspector has been inspecting Commercial and Residential properties for over 15 years. As a Certified Building Code Official registered with the Ontario Building Officials Association his qualifications far exceed most Home Inspectors basic requirements.
Although many Home Inspection Companies advertise as the Barrie Home Inspector, only Roger Frost has the licensed name Barrie Home Inspector. The advantage of having experience in the business and the knowledge to make informed decisions.
The Barrie Home Inspector is a former home builder who was registered with HUDAC, which has now been replace with Tarion home building warranty program. Seven years as Project Review of all Renovations and New Construction with DND provided an unequaled opportunity to be involved with Project Design and Inspection on projects ranging from $1,000’s of dollars to millions of dollar accommodation buildings.
Through out his career, Roger Frost has taken many specialized and building related courses that all are applicable to Commercial and Home inspections. Roger has inspected over 3,000 residential buildings and performed Commercial Building inspections from as far south as Simcoe Ontario to Huntville in the North.
Providing his client with the information they need to make an informed decision is the basis of the Barrie Home Inspector’s business. Having the knowledge to observe the deficiencies or possible failures of systems in not enough, being able to convey that to the client is of paramount importance. The Barrie Home Inspector’s report is precise and detailed, being broken down into individual building systems and areas. All deficiencies are photographed and included in a computerized report for the customers review.
We do not provide concrete financial replacement or repair costs because the nature of the contracting business is such that there are so many variables involved that a accurate price structure really does depend on the individual. We do make note and take pictures of every deficiency so that you will be able to discern the condition of the proposed purchase property.
Experience does matter and when you are making your next real estate investment, whether Commercial or Residential, ensure your Inspector has the qualifications and experience to make you an informed buyer.
There are many electrical deficiencies that I regularly come across during home inspections. Commercial inspections are basically the same except they are more related to maintenance in most cases. Home owners should pay attention to the condition of their electrical system prior to listing their home. A Master Electrician will issue a certificate for as little as $130.00 after inspecting your complete electrical system.
Some of the most common items found during home inspections are:
1. Missing outlet and switch covers. Any opening around the receptacle or cover shall be such that a rod 17/64 in diameter will not enter. Rule 26-700 (11)(b)
2. Panel board locations. They must be readily accessible and shall not be placed above counters or fixed appliances. Rule 26-402 One meter clearance in front. Rule 2-308
3. Un-supported wiring. Cables do not have to be supported within 12 inches of stud passage ( 12 inches ) but are required to be supported every 1.5 m through out the run. Rule 12-510.
4. Electrical cables on hot-air ducts. Cables are not permitted to run in areas where ambient temperatures exceed 30 deg C. Hot water pipes and hot air ducts can exceed this temperature and usually installing fiberglass or like insulation to separate is adequate protection. Rule 12-506.
5. Electrical connections made outside of boxes. Connections shall be made in box having separately bushed hole for each cable. Also connector has to be installed. Rule 12-506
6. Steel studs and electrical cables. When running lomex cable through metal studs a CSA insert must be used. No pipe or other products may be used. Rule 12-516
7. Receptacles exposed to weather. Shall be provided with weatherproof covers. Rule 26-702
8. Bathroom GFCI outlets. Must be 1 meter away from bathtubs and showers. At least one GFCI outlet must be located within 1 m (39 in) of one wash basin. Rule 26-110
9. Receptacles for walls. Any finished wall, that extends past 450 mm from floor level, shall have outlets located every 1.8 m horizontally. Rule 26-712
10. Garage Outlets. At least one duplex receptacle shall be provided for each car space in garage. Rule 26-714
11. GFCI outlet protection. GFCI outlets should trip at 3 to 5 ma range. Outlets should be tested, power will still be provided to outlet even if GFCI is not functioning properly. They are required to be tested on monthly basis. Rule 26-714
12. Dryer and Stove boxes. Must be secured from back or on two sides. Rule 26-744
13. Electric water heaters. Shall be provided their own circuit. Rule 26-750
14. Protection of circuits. All branch circuits within 1.5 m of floor shall be protected from mechanical injury. Rule 26-802
These are some of the more common deficiencies that are commonly noted on home and commercial inspections. There are many more rules which are too numerous to cover in detail. If you have any particular questions please just send me an email and I will be happy to give you the applicable rule or consult with one of the many electricians I deal with for the proper response.
CAVEAT EMPTOR – BUYER BEWARE Remember to check for experience, length of time in business and always ask for references!
Copper plumbing and your home. Older homes which have not had their plumbing distribution upgraded can sometimes experience pin hole leaks in their pipes which is the first sign that their whole plumbing supply systems may require replacement.
Copper pipe can be eaten away by corrosion. The common causes of corrosion are; PH of water, O2 in water, presence of minerals, temperature of water and the velocity of the water.
Water PH – This is an issue where the PH is low. Low PH can lead to early corrosion of pipes which can be avoided with water treatment systems. (water softeners) This option is usually not available to apartment buildings etc where the consent of all tenants would be required.
Oxygen – Introducing fresh oxygen to your water system is supplying organisms that eat away at your plumbing distribution system.
Minerals – The coating of minerals on your plumbing distribution systems can sometimes protect and slow down the corrosion process happening in your copper pipes.
Water Temp – High water temperatures increase the rate of corrosion. Organisms thrive in warmer water which greatly accelerates the damage to your pipes.
Velocity – Water travelling at a faster rate “scours” the pipe from minerals etc which causes wear to pipe. Creation of water bubbles and their collapse also cause creation of pinholes through a process known as Capitation.
Most plumbing systems are estimated to last 20 years before replacement is necessary. Pin hole leaks usually occur on hot water lines and then move on to cold water lines which then involves the whole system where an economical decision must be made to keep repairing or replacing complete system.
Copper pipe comes in different grades based on the thickness of the copper pipe wall. The thicker the wall the longer life expectancy. Copper comes in three grades, M for thin wall pipe used mainly inside homes, L for thicker wall pipe, used mainly outside for water services and K, the thickest, used mainly between water mains and the water meter. Copper lasts a long time, is durable and connects well to valves.
If you are replacing your plumbing in your home ensure you know the type of copper pipe is being installed. Upgrading to thicker pipe is not an expensive procedure where labour is the major cost.
Copper should not be installed if the water has a PH of 6.5 or less. The majority of public utilities supply water at a PH between 7.2 and 8.0 . Many of the utilities that have source water with a PH below 6.5 are treating the water to raise the PH. Private well water systems often have a PH below 6.5. When this it the case, installing a treatment system to make the water less acidic becomes a good idea.
If your water is highly corrosive or has other problems, PEX is now used in many new homes and plumbing retrofits.
PEX is an acronym for cross-linked polyethylene. The “PE” refers to the raw material used to make PEX (Polyethylene), and the “X” refers to the cross-linking of the polyethylene across its molecular chains. The molecular chains are linked into a three-dimensional network that makes PEX remarkably durable within a wide range of temperatures, pressures and chemicals.
Flexible, installed with fewer fittings than rigid plumbing systems. A good choice for re-piping and for new homes. Works well for corrosive water conditions.
It can stretch to accommodate the expansion of freezing water and then return to its original size when water thaws. Although it is highly freeze-resistant, no material is freeze-break proof.
One issue with PEX and CPVC, as related to me by a plumber friend who lives in the country, is that mice tend to get into wall cavities and with their ability to chew through things, flexible plumbing could be susceptible to leaks.
Galvanized Plumbing – Although not used in newer homes there are some older homes that still have galvanized plumbing in their home. Insurance companies are very reluctant to insure homes with galvanized plumbing. As explained to me, galvanized plumbing corrodes from the inside out and gives no indication of impending ruptures of pressurized pipe which can lead to expensive clean ups and claims.
If you have this have this type of plumbing expect only 40 years of use from it. The main problem with the pipe is that water will be severely restricted by corrosion that eventually fills the pipe completely. Another problem is the mismatch of metals between the brass valves and the steel. Whenever steel pipe meets copper or brass, you will see rapid corrosion of the steel pipe. Dielectric unions can be used between copper and steel pipes, however some of these unions will close off flow in a short time. In some cities they prefer using a 6″ brass nipple between copper and steel pipes. The problem with dielectric unions is that it breaks the grounding effect if a live electrical wire comes in contact with a pipe. Most cities will require the two pipes to be bonded electrically to maintain the safety of grounded pipes. If your house is over 30 years old, you can plan on replacing pipes to maintain water flow.
Having your home inspected by a Professional Home inspector can fore warn you of existing and problems that may occur in the future. For Peace of Mind during your next residential or commercial purchase call the Barrie Home Inspector
Everything you need to know about plumbing with PEX
PEX Plumbing Information. Crosslinking is a chemical reaction that occurs between polyethylene polymer chains. Crosslinking causes the HDPE to become stronger and resistant to cold temperature cracking or brittleness on impact while retaining its flexibility. The three methods of crosslinking HDPE are the Engels method (PEX-a), the Silane Method (PEX-b), and the Radiation method (PEX-c). Several industry participants claim that the PEX-a method yield more flexible tubing than the other methods. All three types of PEX tubing meet the ASTM, NSF and CSA standards.
PEX plumbing, PEX fittings, PEX tools
PEX (or crosslinked polyethylene) is part of a water supply piping system that has several advantages over metal pipe (copper, iron, lead) or rigid plastic pipe (PVC, CPVC, ABS) systems. It is flexible, resistant to scale and chlorine, doesn’t corrode or develop pinholes, is faster to install than metal or rigid plastic, and has fewer connections and fittings.
PEX plumbing information. PEX tubing is made from crosslinked HDPE (high density polyethylene) polymer. The HDPE is melted and continuously extruded into tube. The crosslinking of the HDPE is accomplished in one of three different methods.
PEX plumbing has been in use in Europe since about 1970, and was introduced in the U.S. around 1980. The use of PEX has been increasing ever since, replacing copper pipe in many applications, especially radiant heating systems installed in the slab under floors or walkways. Interest in PEX for hot and cold water plumbing has increased recently in the United States.
Advantages of PEX Plumbing
Flexible PEX tube is manufactured by extrusion, and shipped and stored on spools, where rigid plastic or metal piping must be cut to some practical length for shipping and storage. This leads to several advantages, including lower shipping and handling costs due to decreased weight and improved storage options.
PEX plumbing installations require fewer fittings than rigid piping. The flexible tubing can turn 90 degree corners without the need for elbow fittings, and PEX tubing unrolled from spools can be installed in long runs without the need for coupling fittings.
Attaching PEX tube to fittings does not require soldering, and so eliminates the health hazards involved with lead-based solder and acid fluxes; PEX is also safer to install since a torch is not needed to make connections..
PEX resists the scale build-up common with copper pipe, and does not pit or corrode when exposed to acidic water.
PEX is much more resistant to freeze-breakage than copper or rigid plastic pipe.
PEX tubing does not transfer heat as readily as copper, and so conserves energy.
Water flows more quietly through PEX tube, and the characteristic “water hammer” noise of copper pipe systems is virtually eliminated.
PEX plumbing installations cost less because:
PEX is less expensive than copper pipe.
Less time is spent running pipe and installing fittings than with rigid pipe systems.
Installing fewer fittings reduces the chances for expensive callbacks.
Oxygen Barriers
Some applications require PEX with added oxygen barrier properties. Radiant floor heating (or hydronic heating systems) may include some ferrous (iron-containing) components which will corrode over time if exposed to oxygen. Since standard PEX tubing allows some oxygen to penetrate through the tube walls, various “Oxygen Barrier PEX” tubing has been designed to prevent diffusion of oxygen into these systems. Two types of specialty PEX pipe are offered:
1. Oxygen barrier PEX has a layer of polymer laminated to the outside surface (or sandwiched internally between PEX layers) that prevents oxygen from penetrating. The polymer film is usually EVOH (ethyl vinyl alcohol copolymer), used in the food industry as an oxygen barrier.
2. PEX-Al-PEX (or PEX-Aluminum-PEX or “PAP”) is a specialty PEX tubing manufactured by several suppliers. This tubing has a layer of aluminum embedded between layers of PEX to provide an oxygen barrier. PEX-Al-PEX may also be calledmultilayer pipe or composite plastic aluminum pipe. PEX-Al-PEX will also retain shape when bent, and may also exhibit less expansion and shrinkage during temperature fluctuations, but may be less flexible than PEX tubing. PEX-AL-PEX costs about 30% more than standard PEX.
PEX Tubing
The terms PEX pipe and PEX tube have been used interchangeably, however some manufacturers distinguish beween the two by manufacturing to different inside/outside diameters. For example, PEXpipe may be manufactured to IPS-ID (iron pipe size, inside diameter controlled) sizes with varying thickness to meet pressure requirements, while PEX tube may be manufactured to CTS-OD (copper tubing size, outside diameter controlled) sizes, commonly with a standard thickness of SDR-9 (standard dimension ratio).
The PEX tube manufactured to CTS-OD sizes is the most common, with available sizes including 3/8″, 1/2″, 5/8″, 3/4″ and 1″. On this website, “PEX tube” refers to this common CTS-OD product.
Before extrusion, the HDPE can be pigmented to yield color-coded pipe. Common PEX tubing colors are “natural” (hazy clear, unpigmented), white, black, red and blue. The red and blue colors are used to help plumbers and homeowners distinguish between hot and cold water supply lines. The tube will bemarked on the outside to show which standards it meets.
As it is produced, PEX is wound onto spools for storage and shipping. A typical spool of 1/2 inch PEX will hold 1200 feet of tubing.
PEX connection methods
Standard Connection Method
The standard method for connecting PEX pipe to brass PEX fittings uses a copper crimp ring and a PEX crimping tool. The copper crimp ring is inserted over the pipe, the fitting is inserted inside the pipe, and the copper ring is crimped over the pipe and fitting using the PEX crimping tool. Tools, fittings and crimp rings are available from several suppliers. Information about testing standards for this method can be found on the ASTM standards page.
Expansion Fitting Method
The expansion method involves using an expansion tool to increase the diameter of the PEX tube. Special expansion fittings are inserted into the expanded tube, which shrinks back to shape around the fitting. A plastic ring is then pressed over the fitting to insure a tight connection.
This method was developed as a proprietary solution, and is currently available from one company. Information about testing standards for this method can be found on the ASTM standards page.
SSC Method
The SSC (stainless steel clamp) method uses special clamps designed for PEX connection. The fittings used here are the same used in the “Standard Connection Method” above, but in this method the SSC fastens the PEX tube to the fitting. A special “SSC crimping tool” is used to tighten the clamp around the tube and fitting. Information about testing standards for this method can be found on the ASTM standards page.
Compression Method
Standard compression fittings can be used to make connections between PEX tubing. For moderate to large size jobs this method is more expensive than using the Standard Connection Method, since compression fittings cost more than PEX fittings.
“Push-fit” and other proprietary methods
Several companies offer specialized fittings that will connect PEX to PEX or to copper, PVC and other materials as well. These fittings use one or more of several technologies such as EDPM O-ring seals, stainless steel gripping teeth, and threaded compression nuts. These fittings are faster and easier than most competing methods, but cost more per fitting than standard PEX fittings.
PEX fittings
PEX fittings are generally made of brass, although some vendors are offering bronze, copper and engineered plastic fittings for PEX. The characteristic ridges on the “insert” part of the fitting distinguish a PEX fitting from other fittings (see pictures below). The ridges, the PEX tube and the crimped copper ring all work together to form a high-pressure seal.
PEX tools
To work with PEX tubing using the standard crimping method, three basic tools are needed: the main crimping tool(s), a pipe cutter, and a de-crimping tool.
The pipe cutter is used to make a clean, square cut before inserting the tubing into the fitting.
The main crimping tool can be purchased in several configurations from various vendors. One popular model has the capability to crimp either 1/2″ or 3/4″ PEX tube, while another uses interchangeable crimp heads to work with any of the PEX tube sizes.
A de-crimping tool is designed to remove the copper crimp ring from the tube and fitting. Various designs all work by cutting the copper ring. Fittings can be easily re-used.
Prices for these tools can vary widely depending on the brand. Buying all the tools together in a kit can reduce the price. Lower prices are also available online using Ebay, Google or Yahoo to search for quality vendors with discounted prices (including warranties).
PEX Tubing Compatibility
Most PEX tubing is compatible with all the various connection methods, with PEX-Al-PEX being the exception.
Compatible PEX Connections
PEX Tubing Manufacturer
PEX Product Name
Tubing Type
Standard Crimp Ring
SSC (Stainless Steel Clamp)
Proprietary Connection Types
Compression Fittings
IPEX
Kitec XPA
PEX-Al-PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
IPEX
CTS SDR9 PEX Tubing
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Rehau
RAUPEX®
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Upanor / Wirsbo
Wirsbo AquaPEX®
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Vanguard
Vanex
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Vanguard
COMPAX-L
PEX-Al-PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Viega
Pexcel
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Viega
FostaPex
PEX-Al-PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Viega
Pextron (Oxygen Barrier)
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Weil-McLain
Qual-Pex (Oxygen Barrier)
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Weil-McLain
AlumiPex
PEX-Al-PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Zurn
Zurn PEX (Non Barrier)
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Zurn
Zurn PEX (Oxygen Barrier)
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
PEX Fittings Compatibility
The Standard Crimp Ring method is the most popular method. The fittings listed under the Proprietary Connection Type column are unique to specific manufacturers, and may use unique tools. Most of these are not compatible with other PEX connection methods.
Standard PEX fittings can be used with the Standard Method and the SSC (clamp) method.
Compression fittings can be used to make connections with PEX tube, but do not use PEX fittings. They are listed to show the manufacturers that make compression fittings specifically for PEX tubing.
Compatible PEX Connections
PEX Fitting
Manufacturer
PEX Fitting
Product Name
Fitting
Type
Standard Crimp Ring
SSC (Stainless Steel Clamp)
Proprietary Connection Type
Compression Fittings
IPEX
Kitec K1
Brass w/ O-ring
No
No
Kitec K1
IPEX
Kitec K2
Brass w/ O-ring
No
No
Kitec K2
Rehau
Everloc® Fittings
Brass
No
No
Everloc
Sioux Chief
PEX Fittings
Copper
Yes
Yes
Tradesmen
Supply
PEXCaliber™
Fittings
Brass
Yes
Yes
Upanor / Wirsbo
ProPEX Fittings
Brass or Plastic
No
No
ProPEX
QS-style
Vanguard
CrimpSert
Brass
Yes
Yes
Viega
ProPress
Copper
No
No
ProPress
Viega
CombiFlex
Fittings
Bronze
No
No
Viega Press
Viega
PureFlow Fittings
Bronze
No
No
Viega Press
Zurn
Qick/Sert™ 1
Fittings
Brass
Yes
Yes
Zurn
PolyAlloy Fittings
Plastic
Yes
Yes
Zurn
QickTite Fittings
Plastic
No
No
QickTite
Zurn
Polymer Fittings
Plastic
No
No
QickClamp
PEX Tool Compatibility
Standard PEX Crimp Tools are available from several vendors, while special PEX tools are required for proprietary PEX connection methods.
Aluminum wiring facts. In the late 1960?s and early 1970’s copper prices rose and contractors/electricians switched from copper to lower costing aluminum wiring. Although no longer common for distribution circuits, aluminum wiring is still used today in certain applications. For example, 240 volt circuits for stoves and dryers. It sometimes is used on the main service entrance wire from the road to the house.
Concerns with this type of wiring have arisen, for example, when aluminum wire is connected to devices (eg. receptacles, light fixtures) which were not designed for aluminum, or, when aluminum and copper wires are attached. In these cases a reaction can occur causing the connections to fail, perhaps become disconnected, and/or, potentially overheat, spark and catch fire. Symptoms of this can sometimes be seen in the discoloration of receptacles, flickering lights, or the smell of hot plastic insulation.
The conductivity of aluminum is not as good as copper so a different, thicker, gauge wire must used. For example, today the most common copper wire size is 14 gauge. The comparable aluminum wire size used was 12 gauge.
In their most recent 1997 Safety Notice, Ontario Hydro states:
“Aluminum wiring in residential installations will operate as safely as any other type of wiring if the proper materials are used and it is installed as per the manufacturer’s instructions and the Ontario Hydro Electrical Safety Code.”
Special care must be taken to ensure, for example, that connections are made to receptacles that are suitable for aluminum wiring. Further, where aluminum and copper wires are connected that proper paste/flux, and/or, the appropriate wire connectors, are used.
Regardless of the wiring type used, no circuits should overloaded or over fused.
What do you do if you suspect a problem?
Have a qualified electrician check:
1) Terminations at devices without removing or disturbing them.
2) Cut back any damaged aluminum conductors and join these to a copper tail using a connector approved for use with aluminum. These connectors are coloured either brown or purple, depending on the manufacturer. The copper tail is then terminated at the terminal screws of an ordinary device (which includes approved receptacles, etc.). Or, cut back any damaged aluminum conductors and re-terminate at a new device bearing the appropriate marking. Only devices bearing the mark CO/ALR are currently approved for use with aluminum wiring.
3) Panel board terminations for signs of overheating.
4) Fuses present for heavy loads are temperature sensitive type (D or P).
If a home has aluminum wiring and you suspect problems may exist further professional advice from a qualified electrician, experienced in repairing aluminum wiring concerns, is recommended.
