Asphalt Shingles Types and Use. Two types of asphalt shingles are used: organic and fiberglass or glass fiber. Organic shingles are generally paper (waste paper) saturated with asphalt to make it waterproof, then a top coating of adhesive asphalt is applied and ceramic granules are then embedded. In the case of algae-resistant shingles, a portion of the granules contain leachable copper ceramically coated, designed to protect against discoloration from algae on the roof. This does not protect from moss growth but does slow the growth. Moss feeds on algae and any other debris on the roof. Most manufactures offer a 5- to 10-year warranty against algae growth.
Shingles are judged by warranty and ASTM test standards. Organic shingles contain around 40% more asphalt per square (100 sq ft.) than fiberglass shingles. But this extra needed asphalt makes them less environmentally friendly. The paper-based nature of “organic” shingles leaves them more prone to fire damage, and their highest FM rating for fire is class “B”. Shingle durability is ranked by warranted life, ranging from 20 years to 50 years; in some cases lifetime warranties are available.
Fiberglass shingles have a base layer of glass fiber reinforcing mat. The mat is made from wet, random-laid fiberglass bonded with urea-formaldehyde resin. The mat is then coated with asphalt which contains mineral fillers and makes the fiberglass shingle waterproof. Fiberglass shingles typically obtain a class “A” fire rating as the fiberglass mat resists fire better than organic/paper mats. Fiberglass reinforcement was devised as the replacement for asbestos paper reinforcement of roofing shingles and typically ranges from 1.8 to 2.3 pounds/square foot.
The older organic (wood and paper pulp product) versions were very durable and hard to tear, an important property when considering wind uplift of shingles in heavy storms. Fiberglass is slowly replacing felt reinforcement in Canada and has replaced mostly all in the United States. Widespread hurricane damage in Florida during the 1990s prompted the industry to adhere to a 1700-gram tear value on finished asphalt shingles.
A newer design of fiberglass asphalt shingle, called laminated or architectural, uses two distinct layers which are bonded together with asphalt sealant. Laminate shingles are heavier, more expensive, and more durable than traditional 3-tab shingle designs. Laminated shingles also give a more varied, contoured visual effect to a roof surface.
Traditionally, asphalt — also called composition — shingles were made by saturating a heavy layer of building felt (made from organic fibers) with asphalt. These asphalt-felt shingles have largely been supplanted by fiberglass-based shingles. Instead of building felt, they have a fiberglass base impregnated with the asphalt. These shingles are more durable and will last twice as long as the felt-based shingles. In addition to the asphalt coating, the shingles also have a layer of ceramic and hard mineral granules. This layer adds color to the roofing material, but its main function is to protect the asphalt base from the intense ultraviolet radiation of the sun. The asphalt-saturated base is relatively impervious to rain and snow, but without the mineral coating it would quickly break down when exposed to the sun.
People assume that most roof damage comes from the wind, rain and snow. Indeed, these elements eventually erode the granular coating from the shingles, but it is the intense heat of the sun that does the real damage. Thus the longevity of the roof covering is often determined by the amount of sunlight it is exposed to. On many houses the shingles on the northern side of the roof last longer than those on the southern side, because they receive less sunlight. For the same reason, houses in the Southern states usually need roof replacement before those in the Northern states.
Other than planting shade trees near the house, there is little you can do to shield your roof from the sun. You can, however, make sure that the attic remains cool so that heat cannot rise through the sheathing to attack the shingles. The best way to do this is by installing vents in the attic. Adding soffit and ridge vents, for example, will allow cool air to enter under the eaves, flow along the underside of the roof and exit at the peak. This circulating air can lower roof temperatures by up to 20 degrees.
The protective nature of asphalt shingles primarily comes from the long-chain hydrocarbons impregnating the paper. Over time in the hot sun, the hydrocarbons soften and when rain falls the hydrocarbons are gradually washed out of the shingles and down onto the ground. Along eaves and complex roof lines more water is channeled so in these areas the loss occurs more quickly. Eventually the loss of the heavy oils causes the fibers to shrink, exposing the nail heads under the shingle flaps. The shrinkage also breaks up the surface coating of sand adhered to the surface of the paper, and eventually causes the paper to begin to tear itself apart. Once the nail heads are exposed, water running down the roof can seep into the building around the nail shank, resulting in rotting of roof building materials and causing moisture damage to ceilings and paint inside.
Fluorescents Lights and Mercury Scare? The poster-child for the anti-fluorescent bulbers is Brandy Bridges, a mother in Maine who broke a bulb in her daughter’s bedroom a couple years back.
Bridges, aware the bulbs contained mercury, called state officials, who came over, did tests, and told her to have the room cleaned by a hazardous waste crew – to the tune of over $2,000. Maine officials eventually came to her house and cut out the carpet.
This story has been widely circulated on the Internet, and sharp criticism of the government mandate continues today from email chain letters to rants on Capitol Hill.
When it comes to safety, they say the amount of mercury in a fluorescent bulb is so small it should not present a health risk. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, the average fluorescent light bulb contains about 4 milligrams of mercury, over 100 times less than found in an old mercury thermometer.
Consumer Reports just did extensive testing of the bulbs and found that many contain even less mercury – some had just 1 milligram.
“It’s not something to panic about,” said Celia Kuperszmid Lehrman, deputy home editor at Consumer Reports. “Tube fluorescents like we all have in our offices and schools have mercury too, and it’s not like they evacuate a school every time a bulb breaks.”
Still, the bulbs should be handled with care if broken. EPA recommends several steps including cleaning up the glass with cardboard or another item that can be disposed of after, opening the window, and putting the remnants in an outside garbage can.
If your town collects other household hazardous waste like batteries, paint or cleaning supplies, then you should dispose of the bulbs in the same manner. Home Depot and Ikea will recycle any old fluorescent bulbs, no mater where they were purchased.
Also, if the light is close to small children or pets that may easily knock it over, it’s probably best to use another type of bulb. Efficient, mercury-free incandescents like halogen lights, as well as LED lights will still be available after the new efficiency standards kick in.
The benefits of using fluorescent bulbs, experts say, far outweighs any mercury risk.
When it comes to mercury content, a fluorescent bulb ends up putting far less mercury into the environment compared to all the extra electricity required to run an inefficient bulb – four times less mercury, according to Noah Horowitz of the Natural Resources Defense Council.
If the whole country switched to fluorescents, says Horowitz, it would eliminate the need to build 30 new coal power plants and save as much electricity as used by all the homes in Texas.
Then there’s the cost savings. Consumer reports estimates that each incandescent replaced with a $1.50 fluorescent will save an individual $56 in electricity costs over the life of the bulb.
“You’d be hard pressed to find a better deal for your wallet or the environment,” said Horowitz.
Still, some people remain unconvinced.
For starters, many say if fluorescent bulbs were really better, people would buy them on their own.
For her part Bridges, contacted at her home in Maine, says she’ll never go back to fluorescent bulbs and has little faith in experts telling her what’s safe.
“Remember, at some point lead paint wasn’t a big deal either,” she said.\
For more home owner tips and advice, visit the Barrie Home Inspectors blog on Home Owners Tips and Maintenance.
Septic Tank Inspections. Because the septic tank and drainfield at a property are buried, thus hidden from view, because these components are expensive to replace, and because a costly problem can be present but not obvious, it is important to understand the septic system and to inspect and test it when buying a property served by its own private septic tank.
Septic systems include buried septic tanks (sewage tanks) and drainfields – expensive and hidden from view such as in the photo above. This document provides advice for home buyers who are buying a home with a private septic system: homes using a septic tank and drainfield or similar soil absorption system.
Other chapters of this guide explain what goes wrong with septic systems, 5-recommends and describes septic inspection and test methods in more detail, explains how to be sure your septic inspection and septic test are conducted properly, tells you where to get more septic system information about a given property, and warns of unsanitary or dangerous site conditions.
If you need to know how to install a septic system, or if you find that you have a sewage pit (cesspool) this website provides articles explaining those topics too.
This schematic of a conventional two-compartment septic tank (below) illustrates the first of two major septic system parts: the septic treatment tank..
Home buyers ask us these questions about septic systems:
• What is a Septic Tank?
• What is a Leach Field?
• How does a septic system work?
• What does the existing septic system consist of at my new home?
• Do I have a Cesspool or Drywell?
• How do I know if the septic system is working properly?
• What septic inspections and tests should I have performed when I am buying a home?
• How long will a septic system last?
• Is septic system maintenance necessary?”
To help buyers obtain the necessary information to address these questions, we have put together this document to guide them in making informed decisions regarding the potential problems and costs associated with a property’s septic system.
2-YOU NEED TO KNOW AND DO: How Septic Systems Work. Here is the minimum you need to know and what you need to do (or have done) when buying a property with a septic system
Our sketch below shows the second major portion of a septic system: the effluent disposal or drainfield or soakaway bed that disposes of clarified effluent liquid waste that leaves the septic tank.
So how does a septic system work? A private onsite septic system means that the waste from your building drains (sinks, showers, toilets) goes into a septic tank which retains the solids and lets the effluent flow into the soils on the property.
Properly designed and installed these systems are functional and sanitary. Private septic systems serve more homes in the U.S. and many other countries than any other waste disposal method. But the components are costly and do not have an indefinite life.
Because of the potential repair/replacement costs involved, and because the system is buried and cannot be exhaustively inspected and tested, you want to do what you can to evaluate the condition of the septic system before you complete the purchase of the property.
Here’s what to do: If you are buying a home with a septic tank and drain field, here’s what you need to do, as succinctly as possible. Each of these steps is described in more detail below, and in even more detail in linked-to documents.
Steps 1 and 2 are essential. Step 3 is usually a good idea. Step 4 depends on the results of steps 1,2,3 but is usually a good idea. Step 5 is not usually done but might be necessary. Step 6 is what you do if you’re being really thorough.
Synonyms for “septic system” used by the general public include septic waste system, sewage systems, and water sewage systems, even Roman sewage systems. All of these refer to onsite systems which hold and separate sewage waste from its liquid effluent which is treated further and then disposed-of by any of a variety of means which we will discuss. At this site we also discuss special considerations for handling septic waste such as garbage disposal septic tank waste volume and what to do about it. Perform these steps in the order we list them. (For example, don’t pump the tank before a loading and dye test.)
1. Ask About the Septic System – where is it, what’s installed, what’s the service and repair history
2. Make a Visual Site Inspection for signs of trouble. If you can find the tank, for safety, be sure that there is no evidence of collapse or subsidence on the property, and be sure that the septic tank (or cesspool, or drywell) has a safe cover so that no one can fall into the tank. See SEPTIC TANK COVERS for details.
3. Perform a Septic Loading & Dye Test to see if it produces evidence of a failure. Hire a home inspector who knows how to perform and will include this test.
4. Pump the Septic Tank and inspect for additional clues, depending on what you learned at 1,2,3.
5. Additional Septic System Physical Investigation might be needed
6. Get Outside Information Sources about Septic Systems if you’re being really thorough
7. Neighboring Septic System Problems – advice for dealing with a neighboring septic system producing odors or seepage.
For some recommend septic tank inspectors visit Barrie Home Inspector for contact details.
Capenter Ants and Your Home
Carpenter ants are one of the most valuable insects we have on earth. They chew up tons of wood and turn it into fine sawdust that rots and provides compost for new growth. Because they enter man made structures they are considered the most destructive common insect pest we have in Canada.
IDENTIFICATION AND LIFE CYCLE
Two common species of carpenter ants found in Canada: (There are others)
1. Modoc : all black. (Legs may have a rusty red color) One queen in parent nest.
2. Vicinus : black head, rusty red thorax (mid section) and black abdomen
(tail section.) Multiple queens in parent nest.
Most carpenter ant species have other similar characteristics.
Five Sizes : Carpenter ants can be as small as one quarter inch or as large as three quarters of an inch. All sizes can be found in one nest. (See illustration above)
Most Carpenter Ant species establish their initial nest in decayed wood, but, once established, the ants extend their tunneling into sound wood and can do considerable damage to a structure.
These species commonly nest in standing trees (living or dead), in stumps, or in logs on the forest floor. Since many houses are being built in forested areas, well established, vigorous colonies are readily available in the immediate vicinity to attack these dwellings. This is especially true when the homeowner insists that the home be built with a minimal removal of trees.
Carpenter Ants typically have a parent colony in outside nesting areas, such as live or dead trees, stumps, logs or decorative landscape wood. When the colony grows larger and needs room to expand satellite colonies are established. These satellite colonies often develop in nearby structures presumably because they offer warm protection.
Only the parent colony contains the queen(s), young larvae and workers, while the satellite contains the mature larvae, pupae, workers, and/or winged reproductives. Ants move back and forth from parent nest to satellite nest but just a few (less than 10 %) will be visible foraging for food.
Sometimes they can be seen moving mature larvae (white and grub-like) or pupae (papery cocoons).
Ants are generally active along ant trails from April to mid-October. These trails follow natural contours and lines of least resistance and also frequently cut across lawns. Traffic on these trails may be noticeable during the day, but peak traffic occurs after sunset and continues throughout the night.
The parent colony is often located in a tree, stump, stacked wood within 100 meters of the house or wood and stumps buried in the yard when the house was constructed. Decorative wood landscape ties brought in to enhance the beauty of a yard or driveway may also be the source of a parent colony. The colony does not produce reproductives (winged males and queens) until it is from 3 to 6 years old and contains about 2,000 workers. The natural food for these ants consists of insects and other arthropods and sweet exudates from aphids and insects. They are also attracted to other sweet material such as decaying fruits.
Reproductive carpenter ants (winged males and females) leave the nest as early as January if the nest is in a heated structure. Those living outside in logs and stumps will not swarm until about early May. The fertilized queens must then find wet wood to establish a new nest, and the cycle starts over again. The new queen could live 15 years or more and lay 70,000 fertilized eggs.
Getting Rid of Carpenter Ants
First a word of caution.
Many pest control professionals consider Carpenter ants the most difficult pest there is to deal with in the industry. With all the training and experience they have, there are some homes that take considerable time and a number of treatments to completely eradicate these destructive insects. Many homeowners will call in a professional after they have failed to solve the problem themselves. This situation is usually more difficult to deal with because the homeowner randomly sprayed pesticides killing the obvious evidence and scattering the satellite nests. Of course this increases the cost. If you are not prepared to spend hours in your attic and crawl space wearing a respirator, rubber gloves, coveralls and a hat, then you may be wise to call a professional to do the job properly.
You can read the advice from a Canadian Government web site if you are determined to deal with carpenter ants yourself.
The process:
1. Find all of the Satellite nests in the home.
2. Try to locate the “mother” nests and the queens.
3. Eliminate conditions that made the home a suitable habitat for the ants.
4. Treat the satellite nests with a suitable pest control method or product.
Don’t:
1. Don’t spray pesticides on ants outside the nests. Use a vacuum cleaner inside your home.
2. Don’t use “ant drops, ant poisons, ant traps”. Save your money for something worthwhile.
3. Don’t squash foraging ants. Follow them.
4. Don’t rip apart walls or ceilings to find the nests.
How to find the satellite nests:
At the bottom of this page are links to educational institute web sites, each of them displaying some very interesting guidelines and theories about finding carpenter ant nests. Some of the suggestions are excellent. Some may not seem practical to ant experienced pest control professional. If you want to strictly follow the advice of the academic community, we suggest you read the information presented by Dr. Lauren Hansen, Ph.D. of Spokane Falls Community College. Dr. Hansen is probably the most highly respected source of knowledge about carpenter ants among entomologists and pest control professionals around the world. She has made a habit of putting on the coveralls, respirator and rubber gloves to go down into dirty crawl spaces and apply her knowledge about dealing with these pests. Dr. Hansen has hands on experience, not just theories.
Finding carpenter ant nests requires a lot of time and patience. With years of experience, a professional will know where these nests are likely to be and will look for evidence of frass, the junk thrown out of nests. This is often caught up in spider webs in attics, crawl spaces, basements under decks and around the exterior perimeter under the soffits and below the siding. Sometimes sawdust excavated by the ants from the structure will be noticeable, but not always.
Following ants outside the nest is the best indication of it’s location, but ants will often follow channels hidden from the hot sun, rain and your vision. Less than 10 % of the population will ever leave the nests so at times there are very few to follow. Knowing whether the ant you are following is heading for food, or has already eaten and is heading back to the nest is an indicator that some very experienced professionals are capable of seeing.
Listen for them. If your hearing is good and the home is very quiet you may be able to hear the rustling and chewing noise they make. A medical stethoscope is useful but the sound of a refrigerator or even a clock can confuse the inexperienced ear.
How to find the main nests (and the queens):
In some locations it would be impossible to find all the main nests among the trees, logs, stumps, buried wood and roots. Even if these nests are found, removing them can be a monumental task. All satellite nests remain in contact with the main nest. Workers can be seen carrying mature larvae from the overcrowded queen’s home to new or established satellites of the colony. If you find the main nest, try to remove it physically. If you put toxic products into it, they may leach into the ground water and contaminate water supplies or fish habitat some distance away.
If you can not remove the nest, try to eliminate any favorable conditions that encourage them to move toward the home. Tree branches, fences, garden hoses, structural wood touching the soil, landscape ties and utility wires all provide an easy route to follow. A very fine dusting of diatomaceous earth around the perimeter base of the home will discourage all insects from crossing it to gain entry. This is short term and should be repeated frequently in the spring, summer and fall.
Pesticides, Poisons and Secret Formulas.
Toxic Sprays: Most pesticides available to the public will kill any insect that they come in contact with while still wet. Once dry, the residual effect is minimal and has very little effect on insects.
Ant Dusts: Diatomaceous earth is sold in a variety of containers with convincing trade names. The basic product can also be purchased in much less expensive plain plastic bags at most garden stores.
Toxic chlorpyrifos: is now off the market and illegal to use in Canada and U.S.A.
Boric Acid dust: It is very difficult to inject into a nesting cavity without proper equipment. Do not put it in exposed areas.
Ant Poisons sold over the counter at most hardware stores have little if any effect on carpenter ants
Ant Traps are actually not traps. The little tin cans with holes in the side contain borax. They have no effect on carpenter ants.
Secret Formulas: If you find one that works, patent it immediately. Scientists around the world have been searching for years for ingredients that will attract and kill or repel carpenter ants. Some things that homeowners have tried include cinnamon, cayenne pepper, moth balls, boric acid and icing sugar.
None of them have been proven effective.
Is your Home Inspector trained to discover carpenter ants? If you require an experienced Home Inspector who can and will conduct a complete Home Inspection call Bob Haynes at 705-715-2844
This article is brought to you by Bob Haynes Barrie Home Inspector
Fresh Air Mix Boxes – Barrie Home Inspections
During my inspections of Barrie’s many new homes I have come across many furnaces with a Fresh Air Mix Box installed. I always point this feature out to my clients but as many of them are totally unaware of the purpose of this feature I decide to give a brief explanation for those home owners who wondered what the purpose was.
The Fresh Air Mix Box is designed to allow your HVAC system to introduce air from the outside into your house. The difference in air temperature can vary radically so this is where the mix box does its work. Air from your furnace is mixed with outside air combining the two to create warm air.
(more…)
Top 10 Fire Prevention Tips For Your Home
A house fire is something that we all hope we never have to experience. Thousands of people die each year and many more are injured due to house fires. However, the sad reality is that most of these house fires could have been prevented. Below are 10 safety tips to help prevent or reduce the risk of a disastrous fire in your home.
1. Smoke Alarms
Fire is always preceded by smoke. Having a smoke alarm on every level of your home is one of the best defenses against a major fire. You should also check your smoke detectors at least every 2 months to see that the batteries are in place and that the unit is in good working condition.
2. Kids and Matches
Most children are naturally fascinated by the flame of matches or a cigarette lighter. If you have children in your home, you must teach them that these items are not to be played with. Make them aware how easily these items can cause a dangerous fire. You should make every effort to keep matches and cigarette lighters where children cannot reach them.
3. Cooking
Cooking accidents are one of the leading causes of house fires. Keep kitchen towels and oven mitts safely away from open flames. Avoid wearing loose clothing like scarves, ties or hanging sleeves while cooking. Also, you should make it a rule to never leave food cooking on the stove unattended.
4. Smoking
Too many fires are started every year because of careless smokers. If you have a smoker in your home, encourage them to smoke outside if possible. Otherwise, provide a sturdy ashtray and make sure lit cigarette butts are not left around. Make it a rule for smokers not to smoke while in bed or when feeling drowsy.
5. Portable Heating Units
When using portable heating units make sure they are at least 3 feet away from curtains, furniture, bedding, papers and any other flammable materials. These units should only be used on hard, level surfaces. Make sure the heating unit is in good working condition and that there are no loose or exposed coils or wires.
6. Candles
You may need to use candles when there is a power outage. Or you may just like to use candles for the beautiful glow and scent that they give to a room. In either case, make sure that they are in a secure spot away from curtains and other things that can easily catch on fire. Make sure you put the candle out if you have to leave the room for more than a few minutes, and never leave candles burning overnight while you sleep.
7. Fire Extinguishers
You should keep a portable fire extinguisher in your home. It should be kept in a place where it is easily accessible. Make sure each adult in your home knows how to use it as well as older children. Having a fire extinguisher can keep a small flame from turning into a disastrous fire that can destroy your home.
8. Electrical Fire Hazards
Be careful not to overload circuits or extension cords. If your extension cords or surge protectors are old or worn, replace them. Always pay attention to warnings that come with new electrical appliances. Cords and wires should not be placed under rugs or in high traffic areas. You should have an electrician check the electrical wiring throughout the home every two to three years.
9. Holiday Decorations
Many people like to fill their home with beautiful lights during the holiday season. However, you must think about safety when using decorations that involve electricity. To prevent fires, you should never leave decorations plugged in overnight or when you are away from home. If you decorate your home with a live Christmas tree, make sure you water it every day. A dry tree can go up in flames very quickly.
10. Fireplaces
To ensure safety, fireplaces need to be properly maintained. You should have your fireplace and chimney checked by a chimney sweep every year before use. If you use hardwood, make sure it is completely dry to prevent the buildup of creosote (a very flammable tar). Using a glass door or screen in front of your fireplace will also help avoid accidents and add extra safety.
BONUS TIP: Make an Escape Plan
Unfortunately, even after taking precautions to prevent fires, a fire may break out from an unexpected source. So your fire prevention plan should include an escape procedure. You should review this plan with every member of your family. Make sure they know the best escape routes in case a fire does occur in your home.
Setting guidelines in your home based on these fire prevention tips can surely keep your family safe.
Home Maintenance Check List
Homeowners have a duty to make sure their homes are as healthy as they can make them. This ties in to healthy home maintenance, and a healthy home is said to be one that is built, maintained, and then rehabilitated in a way that promotes the good health of its occupants. A few goals that homeowners should have with regards to a healthy home is keeping it dry, orderly, ventilated, contaminant-free, free from pests, secure, and also maintained. Healthy home maintenance will lead to a lessening of allergens, a lower likelihood of injuries resulting from accidents, and also a prevention of sickness.
Spring
Yard & Exterior
Make sure to assess the water drainage in order to see that it flows away from the residence.
Check the whole area of the yard to evaluate whether there are any fall, trip, choking, and sharp-edge hazards. If there are, be sure to remove them from the yard.
If you have a pool on the property, make sure to maintain the fence around the pool so that it is intact.
Assess the year to see whether there are signs of pests in or around it, pests like roaches, rats, termites, or bats. If there are, an exterminator should be called.
Sanitize the window wells and evaluate the drainage.
Clean both the downspouts on the property, as well as the gutters.
Exterior Roof, Walls, Windows
Evaluate to see whether the shingles on the roof are in good condition.
Assess the valley, chimney, and the plumbing vent, and also the skylight flashing.
Check to see that the gutters emit water away from your home.
Assess the attic to see if it has any indications of the roof leaking.
See if any paint is peeling on the outside of the house.
In the area where the deck is connected to the residence, see if there are any indications of leaks.
To see if the flashing of the home is intact, be sure to check the bottom of the doors and windows.
Evaluate the home’s door and window sills to determine if leaks are present.
If the dryer vent needs cleaning, attend to it.
Determine if the exhaust ducts are clear. If not, then clear them.
Basement & Crawlspace
Determine that there are no puddles or wet surfaces here.
Look for the sump pump, and see if its valve is working properly.
Evaluate the floor drain to see if it is working.
Look after the surfaces of the basement by vacuuming them.
Interior Walls, Ceilings, Windows, Doors
Assess the operation of both doors and windows to see that they open and close smoothly.
Appliances
Attend to the screens and dryer vents of appliances by cleaning them.
Attend to the exhaust fan outlets and their screens by cleaning them.
Find the drain pans and coils on air conditioners and clean those.
Evaluate the operation of the dehumidifier, and clean its coils.
Plumbing, Fixtures and Appliances
Assess the drains and the supply time for any leaks that may have occurred.
Evaluate the functioning of kitchen and bathroom fans.
Electrical Equipment
Evaluate any electrical equipment for possibly damaged cords.
Do tests to determine if the ground fault interrupters are working fine.
Analyze carbon monoxide and smoke alarms to see if they are working well.
Garage
Make certain that fuel cans are stored properly.
Ensure that the garage door safety shut-off is in working order.
See if there are any indications of any water damage.
See if there are any indications of the presence of rodents, termites, roaches, or bats.
HVAC Equipment
Replace the filters on any air conditioners.
Fall
Yard & Exterior
Check the whole area of the yard to evaluate whether there are any fall, trip, choking, and sharp-edge hazards. If there are, be sure to remove them from the yard.
If you have a pool on the property, make sure to maintain the fence around the pool so that it is intact.
Assess the year to see whether there are signs of pests in or around it, pests like roaches, rats, termites, or bats. If there are, an exterminator should be called.
Make sure that the outdoor hoses and faucets are drained.
Sanitize the window wells and evaluate the drainage.
Clean both the downspouts on the property, as well as the gutters.
Exterior Roof, Walls, Windows
Assess the attic vents to see that everything is alright.
Make any necessary repairs on glass that has been either cracked or broken.
If the dryer vent needs cleaning, attend to it.
Determine if the exhaust ducts are clear. If not, then clear them.
Basement & Crawlspace
Determine that there are no puddles or wet surfaces here.
Look for the sump pump, and see if its valve is working properly.
See if there are any indications of termites, bats, rodents, or roaches.
Appliances
Clean out any outdoor air intakes along with any screens.
Furnaces, hot water heaters, and boilers should be cleaned.
Both ranges and ovens ought to be cleaned.
Plumbing, Fixtures and Appliances
Evaluate the hot water heater for signs of any leaks.
See if the boiler has any leaks.
Assess if the water meter or main or the well pump is exhibiting any signs of sweating or leaking.
Assess the drains and the supply time for any leaks that may have occurred.
Evaluate the functioning of kitchen and bathroom fans.
Electrical Equipment
Evaluate any electrical equipment for possibly damaged cords.
Analyze carbon monoxide and smoke alarms to see if they are working well.
Garage
Make certain that fuel cans are stored properly.
Ensure that the garage door safety shut-off is in working order.
See if there are any indications of the presence of rodents, termites, roaches, or bats.
HVAC Equipment
Replace the filters on any warm air furnaces.
Set the outdoor air to the heat recovery ventilation setting again.
Attic
Evaluate the attic to see if there are any indications of pests like bats, rodents, roaches, or termites.
Assess if the attic has suffered any water damage.
Make certain that the insulation is in place.
Annual
Exterior Roof, Walls, Windows
Only in the winter, determine if there are any ice dams or icicles that are present.
Interior Walls, Ceilings, Windows, Doors
Determine if there exist any indications of water damage.
Plumbing, Fixtures and Appliances
Inspect the connections in the washer hoses.
Look at the hoses of the dishwasher to see if any leaks are present.
Inspect the toilet supply and the shut-off valve.
Make sure the connections between the ice maker and the refrigerator’s drip pan are cleaned and assessed.
See if the surrounding area of the shower and the tub exhibits any sign of damage.
See if the drains and the traps under the showers, tubs, and sinks have any leaks in them.
Every two years, be sure to also clean the septic tank.
Electrical Equipment
Once every year, be certain to check all outlets for correct ground, neutral, and hot connections.
Attic
See if the fans still emit exhaust out of the house by inspecting the duct work connections.
As Needed
Interior Walls, Ceilings, Windows, Doors
Repair the doors and the windows, and apply lubricant to them also.
Appliances
Clean the screens that are found on the kitchen range hood.
Improve Your Lot Drainage
How much water do you think comes off your roof in a heavy rain storm? Take a typical 1500 sq ft home and a rain storm that drops one inch of rain, this is equal to over 900 gallons of water. This water, all 900 gallons, leaves your roof by following your gutter system and down through downspouts to the ground. This is where most homes are sadly lacking.
Many homes have missing elbows on downspouts, which would allow water to run straight down your foundation. If you have a basement, this can lead to damp walls or even water entry into basement. Once water has created a path it will tend to follow the same path unless remedial methods are used to re-direct it.
Every downspout should have an elbow and extension directing water away from your home. Water is the worst enemy of your home. Concrete pads are great; just remember to install them with the open end pointing away from your home. Unbelievable, but I have come across numerous cases where these run off pads were installed like a dam, with the open side butted against the wall. Wrong way; turn it around!
Small holes and depressions around your foundation should be filled and soil levelled to slope away from house. If installing patio stones or walkways along side of home, ensure that the y slope away from house. If a new house, increase slope away slightly to compensate for disturbed soil along side of house. This is very important because improper slope of soil around your home will direct water towards foundation year round. Eventually this will cause water damage to your home, spalling of concrete or water entry into your home.
Some homes have eaves troughs that discharge water across driveways and sidewalks. This can be dangerous to occupants and visitors in the winter season with ice being a problem. Diverting your run off underground is one solution to this dilemma. Ensure you run your drain lines deep enough not to freeze and that you have an adequate low spot to drain to. Another good tip is to install a tee above drainpipe connect which allows the water to flow out if drain line freezes. French drains are another option. This is just a barrel full of stone or gravel buried underground into which you water is directed.
Water is the number one enemy to your home, so ensure that is moved away from your home as quickly and efficiency as possible.
Brought to you by the Alliston Home Inspector
Roger Frost is a professional home inspector for Barrie Home Inspections and has many Do It Yourself Articles.
By-Law 94-59 To regulate the protective enclosure of privately owned outdoor swimming pools and to repeal By-law 77-104.
This By-law is printed under and by authority of the Council of the City of Barrie, Ontario, Canada
Disclaimer:
The following consolidation is an electronic reproduction made available for information only. It is not an official version of the By-law. The format may be different, and plans, pictures, other graphics or text may be missing or altered. The City of Barrie does not warrant the accuracy of this electronic version. This consolidation can not be distributed or used for commercial purposes. It may be used for other purposes, only if you repeat this disclaimer and the notice of copyright. Official versions of all By-laws can be obtained from the City Clerk’s Office by calling (705) 739-4204.
Bill # 73
BY-LAW NUMBER 94-59 A By-law of the Corporation of the City of Barrie to regulate the protective enclosure of privately owned outdoor swimming pools and to repeal By-law 77-104
WHEREAS, Subsection 23 of Section 210 of the Municipal Act, 1990, (Chapter 302 of R.S.O.) permits a by-law to be passed by a municipal council to regulate fences and gates that enclose privately owned outdoor swimming pools and other related matters, AND WHEREAS, the Council of The Corporation of the City of Barrie deems it expedient to provide such regulations, AND WHEREAS, the Council of The Corporation of the City of Barrie adopted By-law 77-104, AND WHEREAS, by resolution 94-G-124, the Council of The Corporation of the City of Barrie deems it expedient to amend the by-law to regulate the protective enclosure of privately owned outdoor swimming pools.
NOW THEREFORE, the Council of the Corporation of the City of Barrie enacts as follows:
1. SHORT TITLE
This By-law may be cited as the “Pool Enclosure By-law”.
2. DEFINITIONS
In this By-law:
(1) “Authority having jurisdiction” means the Chief Building Official and any Building Inspector or Property Standards Officer authorized by the Chief Building Official to administer this bylaw.
(2) “Building Inspector” means an inspector appointed by the Council of the Corporation to inspect buildings and structures pursuant to the Building Code Act.
(3) “Chief Building Official” means the person appointed by the Council of the Corporation to administer the Building Code pursuant to the Building Code Act.
(4) “Corporation” means the Corporation of the City of Barrie.
(5) “Enclosure” means a fence, wall or other structure or thing, including gates and doors, which surrounds the perimeter of a pool which would discourage the entry of a person into the
enclosed area.
– 2 –
(6) “Pool” means a privately-owned outdoor body of water,
(a) contained in a container that is,
(i)artificial, manufactured or assembled;
(ii)capable of retaining water measuring more than 460 mm (18.1 inches) in depth at any point, and
(iii)capable of being used for swimming, bathing, diving or wading,
(6) (b) and includes,
(i)manufactured swimming pools, both above-ground and in-ground;
(ii)custom built pools; and
(iii)hot tubs and spas,
(c) but does not include,
(i)irrigation ponds on farms used for
watering livestock or for irrigation;
(ii)naturally formed depressions in the ground surfaces
(iii)garden or fish ponds used as landscaping features with plant
materials grown in and around the pond; and
(iv)public swimming pools as defined and regulated by the Ontario Building Code.
(7) “Property Standards Officer” means an inspector appointed by the Council of the Corporation assigned the duties of enforcing the Corporation’s Minimum Property Maintenance and
Occupancy Standards By-law.
3. ADMINISTRATION AND ENFORCEMENT
The Chief Building Official shall be responsible for the administration and enforcement of this by-law.
4. POOL ENCLOSURE PERMIT
(1) No person shall excavate for, erect or install a pool, or cause the excavation for, erection of or installation of a pool unless a permit for the pool enclosure has been issued by the
Chief Building Official.
(2) To obtain a pool enclosure permit, an applicant shall file an application in writing on forms prescribed by and available from the Chief Building Official, and shall supply any other
information relating to the application as required by the Chief Building Official. – 3 –
(3)Every pool enclosure permit application shall:
(a) describe the land on which the work is to be done, by a description that will readily identify and locate the site on which the pool will exist;
(b) be accompanied by plans, sketches and specifications about the pool enclosure as described in this by-law;
(c) be accompanied by the required fees as determined in accordance with Schedule “A”;
(d) state the names, addresses and telephone numbers of the owner, applicant and the constructor;
(e) be signed by the applicant who shall certify as to the truth of the contents of the application.
(4) The Chief Building Official shall, where the conditions in Subsection 4(3) above have been fulfilled, issue a pool enclosure permit to the applicant unless,
(a)the proposed pool or pool enclosure will
contravene this by-law or any other
applicable law;
(b)the application for it is incomplete; or
(c)any fees due are unpaid.
(5) Where an application for a permit remains incomplete or inactive for 30 days after it is made, the application may be deemed by the Chief Building Official to have been abandoned,
without further notice to the applicant.
5. PLANS AND SPECIFICATIONS
(1) Every applicant shall furnish,
(a) sufficient plans, specifications, documents and other information to enable the Chief Building Official to determine whether the proposed pool enclosure conforms to this by-law and any other applicable laws;
(b) a site plan referenced to a current plan of survey certified by a registered Ontario Land Surveyor and a copy of such a survey shall be filed with the municipality unless this equirement is waived because the Chief Building Official is able, without having a current plan of survey, to determine whether the proposed pool and pool enclosure conforms to this by-law and any other applicable laws. The site plan shall include,
– 4 – (i)lot size and dimensions of the
property;
(ii)setbacks of the pool and pool
enclosure from existing and proposed
buildings and property lines;
(iii)existing and finished ground levels or grades, and
(iv)existing rights of way, easements and municipal services.
(2) Plans submitted shall be legible and be drawn to scale upon paper or other suitable and durable material to the satisfaction of the Chief Building Official.
(3) Plans and specifications furnished according to this by-law become the property of the municipality and will be disposed of or retained in accordance with relevant legislation.
6. FEES
(1) The Chief Building Official shall determine the required fees calculated in accordance with Schedule “A” for the proposed pool enclosure
and the applicant shall pay such fees at the
time of making an application.
(2) Upon written request, the Chief Building Official shall determine the amount of fees, if any, that may be refunded in accordance with Schedule “A” in the case of,
(a) withdrawal of an application,
(b) abandonment of an application,
(c) denial of a permit, or
(d) revoking of a permit.
7. POOL ENCLOSURE COMPLIANCE
(1) No person shall erect or install or cause to be erected or installed any pool enclosure except in accordance with this by-law.
(2) No person shall make a material change or cause a material change to be made to a plan, specification, document or other information on the basis of which a permit was issued ithout
notifying, filing details with and obtaining the authorization of the Chief Building Official.
(3) No person shall erect or install or cause to be erected or installed any pool enclosure except in accordance with the plans, specifications, documents and any other information on the
basis of which a permit was issued and any changes to them authorized by the Chief Building Official.
– 5 –
(4) No person shall place water or allow water to be placed in any pool to a depth of more than 460mm unless the pool is safely enclosed by a pool enclosure that complies with the standards set out in this by-law.
(5) Every pool shall continue to be enclosed by a pool enclosure that complies with the standards set out in this by-law so long as water remains, or is capable of remaining in the pool
to a depth of more than 460mm.
8. POOL ENCLOSURE STANDARDS
(1) Every pool enclosure shall be designed, constructed and maintained so as to discourage the entry of small children into the pool area.
(2) The following standards are deemed by the Corporation to satisfy the intent of Article 8.(1) above.
(a)HEIGHT:Every pool enclosure shall be not less than 1.2 metres (47.23 inches) in height measured from the finished grade and any climbable fixture or feature on the exterior side of the pool enclosure, to the top of the pool enclosure, as determined at the time of the initial pool enclosure approval.
(b)RIGIDITY:Every pool enclosure shall be constructed and maintained to be rigid and secure, able to resist any reasonable lateral forces that may be applied to the enclosure material
within its minimum required height.
(c)OPENINGS:No openings, spaces or gaps in the enclosure material shall allow the passage of a spherical object having a diameter of 100 mm (3.94 inches) within the enclosure’s minimum required height.
(d)NON-CLIMBABLE:Within the enclosure’s minimum required height, no horizontal or diagonal components shall be located so as to facilitate the climbing of the enclosure. Horizontal or diagonal members shall be spaced not less than 900 mm (35.42 inches) measured between the top edge of adjacent members.
(e)GATES AND DOORS:All gates and doors of the pool enclosure other than from the property’s dwelling unit, shall be kept in a closed, secure and latched position whenever the pool area is unattended by a supervisory adult. All gates shall be of equivalent construction and height as the minimum requirements of the pool enclosure and shall be supported on substantial hinges.
– 6 –
(3) Without limiting the generality of the above noted principles, the following situations shall be further regulated within the minimum required height of the enclosure as follows.
(a) BOARD FENCES
(i) All board material shall be of minimum 19 mm thickness (1 inch nominal thickness).
(ii) All horizontal support rails shall be of minimum 39 mm x 89 mm (nominal 2″ x 4″) material.
(iii)All support posts shall be of minimum 89 mm x 89 mm (nominal 4″ x 4″) material spaced not more than 2.5m (8.2 feet) apart.
(b) LATTICE FENCES
(i) The openings of any lattice material shall be not greater than 51mm x 51mm (2″ x 2″) in size.
(ii) All lattice material shall be laterally supported at all edges and at horizontal and vertical spacing of not more than 1.2 metres (3.94 ft).
(c) CHAIN LINK FENCES
(i) All chain link fences, posts and rails shall be of galvanized or vinyl coated material.
(ii) All chain link mesh material shall be a minimum of No. 14 gauge wire.
(iii)The openings of any chain link fencing material shall be not greater than 51 mm x 51 mm (2 inch x 2 inch) in size.
(iv) The chain link mesh material shall be supported at the top and bottom by an approved reinforcing cable or a rail.
(v) Every chain link pool enclosure shall be supported by posts that are not less than 38 mm (1.5 inches) in diameter, spaced not more than 2.5 metres (8.20 ft.) apart.
(d) ABOVE GROUND POOLS
Only the ladders or stairs providing access to an above ground pool need be enclosed in accordance with this by-law provided the following conditions are maintained:
– 7 –
(i) The sides of an above ground pool
shall be not less than 1.2 metres
(3.94 ft.) in height measured from
the finished grade and any climbable
fixture or feature on the exterior
face of the pool wall to the top rail
of the pool wall, as determined at
the time of the initial pool
enclosure approval.
(ii) Pumps, air conditioners, heaters,
filters or other appliances or
equipment shall be located not less
than 1.2 metres (3.94 ft.) from the
top rail of the pool walls or shall
be enclosed in accordance with this
by-law.
(e) SPAS
Outdoor spas need not be enclosed by
a pool enclosure provided they are
enclosed by a solid, locked cover
that is secured over the entire water
surface when the area surrounding the
spa is unattended by a supervisory
adult.
(f) OTHER MATERIALS
(i) Other fencing materials may be
approved by the Chief Building
Official where it can be
demonstrated that the material
will perform with an equivalent
degree of safety as outlined in
Section 8 (2) of this by-law.
(g) TEMPORARY FENCING
For a period of not more than two
weeks, sections of a pool enclosure
can be replaced with temporary
fencing material such as plastic mesh
to facilitate maintenance or access
to the pool area, provided the
temporary fence material is;
(i) at least 1.2 metres (3.94 ft.)
in height
(ii) securely supported by posts
spaced not more than 2.0 metres
(6.56 ft.) apart, and
(iii) securely fastened to the
remaining sections of the pool
enclosure.
– 8 –
(h) PROHIBITED MATERIALS
(i) No barbed wire or anything
having similar dangerous
characteristics are permitted as
a component of a pool enclosure.
(ii) No electrical current is
permitted to be connected to or
conducted through any part of a
pool enclosure.
9. PENALTIES
(1) Any person who contravenes any provision of
this by-law is guilty of an offence.
(2) A person who is convicted of an offence is
liable to a $5,000 fine as setout in the
Provincial Offences Act and in By-law 90-268.
10.BY-LAW REPEALED
(1)That By-law 77-104 is hereby repealed.
(2)This by-law comes into force and has effect on the
date of its enactment.
READ a first and second time this 18th day of April,
1994.
READ a third time and finally passed this 18th day of
April, 1994.
THE CORPORATION OF THE CITY OF BARRIE
____________________________________
MAYOR
____________________________________
CITY CLERK
BY-LAW NUMBER 94-
SCHEDULE “A”
1. FEES
The following fees shall be collected by the Chief
Building Official.
(a) Pool Enclosure Permit $ 50
(b) Pool Enclosure Permit when project
is combined with a deck permit or
changehouse permit issued concurrently $ 25
(c) Reinspections pursuant to an
Order to Comply $ 20
(d) Letters confirming compliance $ 30
2. PERMIT FEE REFUNDS
Upon receipt of a written request, the Chief Building
Official shall refund 60% of the permit fee where the
permit is being cancelled or has been revoked,
provided the request is received not more than 30 days
after the permit has been cancelled or revoked and no
inspections have been performed.
POLICY & PROCEDURE
FOR
POOL FENCE ENCLOSURES
1. REGULATION
The requirement to safely enclose a pool is a regulatory
matter of the City of Barrie administered by the Chief
Building Official. The regulations are contained in a
municipal by-law.
2. PERMIT APPLICATIONS
(a)Applications for a pool enclosure permit shall be
submitted by the owner or his agent, on prescribed
forms, to the office of the Chief Building
Official.
(b)The applications shall be reviewed and discussed
with the applicant to confirm thoroughness of
information. Fees shall be collected and a
receipt issued.
(c)The application shall be entered into the computer
filing system, and a permit number assigned to the
application.
(d)A file folder shall be prepared with supplementary
forms and a permit placard.
(e)The file shall be reviewed for compliance with the
municipal zoning by-law and signed by the zoning
inspector.
(f)The file shall be reviewed by any other municipal
staff as deemed necessary to confirm compliance of
the project with any other municipal regulations.
(i)The owner shall be notified of any other agency
approvals that may be required to be submitted, as
soon as they become known.
(j)Plans describing the type of pool enclosure shall
be reviewed for compliance with the pool enclosure
by-law.
(k)The owner shall be notified of any issues that may
affect the issuance of a permit forthwith as they
arise.
3. PERMIT ISSUANCE
(a)The permit shall be issued when the application has
been reviewed thoroughly and found to be in
compliance with all regulatory requirements.
(b)The applicant shall be notified of the permit
issuance and asked to come to the office to pick
up the permit documents. The applicant shall be
advised of the required inspection notification.
4. INSPECTIONS
(a)An inspection shall be carried out as soon as
possible after receiving notification of the
readiness to inspect.
(b)Notwithstanding the requirement to be notified, an
inspection shall be carried out of a property when
the permit is more than 4 weeks old and no
notification has been received.
(c)When inspecting, the pool enclosure shall be
thoroughly inspected to confirm compliance of the
enclosure with the requirements of the pool
enclosure by-law and of the approved permit
drawings.
4. (d)If the pool enclosure is complete and satisfactory,
the owner shall be advised that the pool can be
filled and that no further inspections will be
required.
(e)If the pool enclosure includes any sections of
temporary fencing, and such enclosure meets the
requirements of the pool enclosure by-law, the
owner shall be advised that the pool can be
filled, but that the enclosure must be completed
with permanent fencing within two weeks, and
notification given for a re-inspection.
(f)When reinspection of a pool enclosure is required
due to temporary fencing, the inspector shall
schedule to return to the property in two weeks
time, even if notification is not received.
5. CLOSING FILES
(a)The inspection file for a pool enclosure permit
shall be closed as soon as possible following a
satisfactory inspection of the completed pool
enclosure.
6. ENFORCEMENT
(a)If, during an inspection pursuant to a pool
enclosure permit, it is found that the pool
enclosure does not meet any item of the by-law
regulation, the owner shall be notified of the
deficiency and the options available to correct
same. The owner shall be asked to notify the
office for a re-inspection prior to the placing of
any water in the pool.
(b)Notwithstanding the requirement to notify, the
inspector shall schedule to return to the property
1 week following the last inspection.
(c)If, upon reinspection, it is found the deficiency
has not been satisfactorily resolved, the
inspector shall provide the owner with a written
order, specifying the deficiency, and requiring
compliance and a reinspection of the pool
enclosure prior to filling the pool. A maximum of
1 week shall be granted to comply with the by-law.
(d)Unless notified earlier, the inspector shall return
to the property 1 week from the last inspection to
determine compliance of the pool enclosure. An
inspection fee is charged for this inspection.
(e)If, upon reinspection, the pool enclosure remains
incomplete, the inspector shall prepare for court
charges as per the Provincial Offences Act.
DANGEROUS CONDITIONS
(f)If, at any time, the inspector discovers any
dangerous, unsafe conditions, such conditions
shall be brought to the attention of the Chief
Building Official to determine what emergency
measures are to be taken to protect the public.
WATER IN BEFORE AUTHORIZED
(g)If, upon inspection of a property, water has been
placed in a pool and the pool enclosure does not
meet the requirements of the by-law, the inspector
shall issue an order to the owner requiring
compliance with at least temporary fencing within
24 hours, after which the inspector shall prepare
for court charges if the matter is not corrected.
6. NO PERMIT
(h)If, during the normal course of duties, an
inspector finds a pool installed and there is no
record of a permit issued for the pool enclosure,
the inspector shall notify the owner in writing of
the violation of the by-law. The pool enclosure
shall be inspected thoroughly forthwith to
determine compliance. Any deficiencies found
shall be identified in writing to the owner, who
shall be given 24 hours to correct any
deficiencies with at least temporary fencing,
after which the inspector shall prepare for court
charges if the matter of the deficiencies are not
corrected. The owner shall be granted one week to
submit an application for a permit, with
appropriate follow up by the inspector.
COMPLAINTS
(i)Upon receipt of a bona fide complaint, an inspector
shall attend to a property where it is alleged
that a pool enclosure has not been provided or
maintained.
(j)If, upon inspection, it is found that the pool
enclosure does not meet the requirements of the
pool enclosure by-law, such deficiencies shall be
identified in writing to the owner, who shall be
given no more than 1 week to correct the matter.
(k)Unless notified earlier, the inspector shall return
to the property after 1 week to confirm
satisfactory compliance of the pool fence
enclosure. If the enclosure remains incomplete,
the inspector shall prepare for court charges as
per the Provincial Offences Act.
PERFORMING WORK
(l)If for any reason, a pool enclosure is not
adequately secured, the inspector may, after
reasonable notice, enter upon the lands with a
contractor to perform such work as necessary to
restore or complete the requirements for a safe
pool enclosure. All charges shall be invoiced to
the property owner or collected in a like-manner
as taxes, as authorized by Section 325 of the
Municipal Act.
Repairing Your Homes Concrete Foundation
Concrete foundations are of two types – poured concrete and concrete block. Poured concrete is a modern manner of laying foundations, while concrete blocks are more traditional. Concrete blocks are preferred for their visual appeal and strength. Yet, as time passes, there may be degradation of concrete.
The prime cause of cracks in concrete foundation is seepage of water. Such cracks caused due to leakage of water are thin and hairline. They may widen over time, but they are present only in those areas where the seepage occurs. In order to repair leakage cracks, it is necessary first to investigate the source and the point from which the leakage originates. There may be other reasons for concrete foundations to crumble. Soil may lose its moisture content in summer. There may be underground roots which may wither and die. Such natural causes make the soil shrink and hence the foundation may move. Though this movement is gradual, overtime it will cause cracks to occur. These cracks will be large gaping ones, running across the entire length of the foundation. They may even be in the form of tiny holes in certain places. Whatever be the reason, cracks in the foundation are very perilous if ignored. Repair must be done as soon as possible.
Difficulties involved in the repair process are influenced by how big the cracks are. For tiny moisture created cracks, the repair is relatively simple and can be done by almost anyone. These cracks must first be brushed clean with a wire brush. A jet of water may be passed to remove any loose concrete particles within the crack. The crack is then allowed to dry completely and filled with concrete caulk. If the crack is large, then it is packed with patching materials that are specifically available for concrete. These patching materials must be wet when applied. They are limestone based, and they expand as they dry, filling up the crack completely. The finishing touch is to apply a sealant to the repaired crack. But if the crack is sinister and not the do-it-yourself kind, then it is most prudent to shell out a few dollars and hire some good repairmen. Such cracks occur due to rods which may have rusted inside and snapped or because of deterioration of the materials present within the concrete.
Some leakage cracks when ignored can also reach dangerous levels. Such cracks are more found in poured concrete. Contractors treat the concrete foundation with urethane injections to extract the embedded water. They may even excavate the area around the foundation and replace the faulty tile or construct a provision for the water to lose contact with the foundation.
Foundation Repair
The principal function of a foundation of a home is to transfer the weight of a structure to its underlying soil and rocks. One of the factors that bring about the need for foundation repairs is improper foundation settling. Foundation settlement can devalue structures and also render them unsafe. Building on expansive clay, compressive or improperly contracted fill soils and improper maintenance in and around foundations are some of the major reasons of improper foundation settling. Another reason for improper foundation settlement is undetected or unsuspected air pockets in the ground below the area of construction. These may cave in and cause the integrity of the foundation to be compromised.
General symptoms of a structure needing foundation repairs are bulging or cracked walls and doors that don’t close properly. Building on expansive soils is the main culprit for foundation settlement. When only one part of the foundation either settles or heaves, cracks are formed in the foundation.
The exterior warning signs of improper floor settling are rotation of walls, displaced moldings, cracked bricks and foundation and separation around doors and windows from the walls.
Interior warning signs of improper floor settling are cracks on the floor, sheet rock and misalignment in doors and windows. There are many ways of doing foundation repair. Cement, stone, steel or wood were used extensively in past techniques. They would be forced into the ground in a bid to salvage the strength of these foundations. However, this type of repair work has been known to be futile.
Two of the most successful ways of foundation repairs are slab jacking and the Piering method. Piering is also known as hydraulic jacking. Slab jacking is the process of adding grout beneath a slab or beam. This produces a lifting force and restores the said beam or slab to almost its original elevation and adds to its strength. Care should be taken that the amount of sand should be perfect while adding grout. During Piering, steel posts are driven through unstable soil. Hydraulic jacks are used to stabilize concrete slabs which are weakened due to the changes taking place in the underlying soil. Steel beams are used in the Piering method because concrete has great compressive strength. Though Piers are able to transfer huge downward loads without the help of reinforcing steel, steel is used in the piers for prevention of the pier from being pulled apart or sheared by forces of the expansive soils. The repairs normally take 21 to 30 days, however this time frame can vary depending on soil conditions and weather delays. This article is for general knowledge only, always consult with an expert regarding any structural design issues or faults.
The Barrie Home Inspector has inspected over 8,000 foundations. For more information on foundations or water penetration visit blog on home maintenance and tips.
