Your Homes Plumbing System. Bathtubs and lavatories can have overflows installed. These two fixtures are often used without close observation. A person preparing to take a bath will typically turn on the water and leave while the tub is filling up. If left for a long time, the tub water may rise to a height where the overflow will take the excess water to the drain, preventing flooding of the area. Many tubs are capable of supplying water at rates greater than the flow rate of the overflow. With such fixtures, overflowing and flooding may not be prevented.
The bidet is a small bathing fixture used by both sexes. It is not designed for the elimination of human waste, but for cleaning the perineal area, and other body parts, including feet. It is typically equipped with a water spray that directs water upward in a jet towards a body part.
Most bidets present back-siphonage problems because the spray nozzle is located below the flood-level rim of the fixture. The water supply to a bidet should have protection against backflow. The temperature of the discharging water from a bidet should be limited to a maximum temperature of 110 F (43 C) by a water temperature-limiting device. This temperature device is required because of the potential for scalding sensitive parts of the body.
Where a lavatory does have an overflow installed, the cross-sectional area of the overflow should have a minimum of 1-1/8 inches (726 mm). This minimum prevents the overflow from being too small, which could promote bacterial and micro-organism growth. The overflow should be able to prevent overflowing of the sink for a minimum of five minutes when tested from the onset of water flowing into the overflow’s opening.
Bathtubs are made from many different types of materials, including enameled cast-iron, porcelain-enameled steel, and plastic. Plastic tubs are made from materials such as ABS, PVC, fiberglass, fiberglass-reinforced plastic, acrylic, and cultured-marble acrylic. Bathtubs that are equipped with shower fixtures should be manufactured with slip-resistant surfaces. Bathtubs should have a drainage outlet (tailpiece) with a minimum diameter of 1-1/2 inches (38 mm). Every tub should be equipped with a stopper. The bathtub should have an overflow outlet installed. The overflow prevents flooding if the tub is being filled while unattended, and prevents overflow of the water when a person enters a tub that is full.
Many injuries in a dwelling are related to accidents in the bathtub or shower. The minimum opening requirements for access and egress allows an adult enough room to safely step into and exit the shower area without having to twist or turn through a narrow opening. The shower opening (or access and egress opening) should be at least 22 inches (559 mm) of clear and unobstructed finish-width. The 22-inch width is based on the approximate shoulder width of an average-sized adult. This minimum opening dimension also provides comfortable access to service the valves, showerheads and drain. It allows for emergency response and rescue access, and emergency egress.
The Barrie Home Inspector is trained to inspect your homes complete plumbing system. He will inspect your supply lines to waste drains and check all your plumbing fixtures. Protect your next real estate purchase by having a professional home inspection.
Septic Tank Inspections. Because the septic tank and drainfield at a property are buried, thus hidden from view, because these components are expensive to replace, and because a costly problem can be present but not obvious, it is important to understand the septic system and to inspect and test it when buying a property served by its own private septic tank.
Septic systems include buried septic tanks (sewage tanks) and drainfields – expensive and hidden from view such as in the photo above. This document provides advice for home buyers who are buying a home with a private septic system: homes using a septic tank and drainfield or similar soil absorption system.
Other chapters of this guide explain what goes wrong with septic systems, 5-recommends and describes septic inspection and test methods in more detail, explains how to be sure your septic inspection and septic test are conducted properly, tells you where to get more septic system information about a given property, and warns of unsanitary or dangerous site conditions.
If you need to know how to install a septic system, or if you find that you have a sewage pit (cesspool) this website provides articles explaining those topics too.
This schematic of a conventional two-compartment septic tank (below) illustrates the first of two major septic system parts: the septic treatment tank..
Home buyers ask us these questions about septic systems:
• What is a Septic Tank?
• What is a Leach Field?
• How does a septic system work?
• What does the existing septic system consist of at my new home?
• Do I have a Cesspool or Drywell?
• How do I know if the septic system is working properly?
• What septic inspections and tests should I have performed when I am buying a home?
• How long will a septic system last?
• Is septic system maintenance necessary?”
To help buyers obtain the necessary information to address these questions, we have put together this document to guide them in making informed decisions regarding the potential problems and costs associated with a property’s septic system.
2-YOU NEED TO KNOW AND DO: How Septic Systems Work. Here is the minimum you need to know and what you need to do (or have done) when buying a property with a septic system
Our sketch below shows the second major portion of a septic system: the effluent disposal or drainfield or soakaway bed that disposes of clarified effluent liquid waste that leaves the septic tank.
So how does a septic system work? A private onsite septic system means that the waste from your building drains (sinks, showers, toilets) goes into a septic tank which retains the solids and lets the effluent flow into the soils on the property.
Properly designed and installed these systems are functional and sanitary. Private septic systems serve more homes in the U.S. and many other countries than any other waste disposal method. But the components are costly and do not have an indefinite life.
Because of the potential repair/replacement costs involved, and because the system is buried and cannot be exhaustively inspected and tested, you want to do what you can to evaluate the condition of the septic system before you complete the purchase of the property.
Here’s what to do: If you are buying a home with a septic tank and drain field, here’s what you need to do, as succinctly as possible. Each of these steps is described in more detail below, and in even more detail in linked-to documents.
Steps 1 and 2 are essential. Step 3 is usually a good idea. Step 4 depends on the results of steps 1,2,3 but is usually a good idea. Step 5 is not usually done but might be necessary. Step 6 is what you do if you’re being really thorough.
Synonyms for “septic system” used by the general public include septic waste system, sewage systems, and water sewage systems, even Roman sewage systems. All of these refer to onsite systems which hold and separate sewage waste from its liquid effluent which is treated further and then disposed-of by any of a variety of means which we will discuss. At this site we also discuss special considerations for handling septic waste such as garbage disposal septic tank waste volume and what to do about it. Perform these steps in the order we list them. (For example, don’t pump the tank before a loading and dye test.)
1. Ask About the Septic System – where is it, what’s installed, what’s the service and repair history
2. Make a Visual Site Inspection for signs of trouble. If you can find the tank, for safety, be sure that there is no evidence of collapse or subsidence on the property, and be sure that the septic tank (or cesspool, or drywell) has a safe cover so that no one can fall into the tank. See SEPTIC TANK COVERS for details.
3. Perform a Septic Loading & Dye Test to see if it produces evidence of a failure. Hire a home inspector who knows how to perform and will include this test.
4. Pump the Septic Tank and inspect for additional clues, depending on what you learned at 1,2,3.
5. Additional Septic System Physical Investigation might be needed
6. Get Outside Information Sources about Septic Systems if you’re being really thorough
7. Neighboring Septic System Problems – advice for dealing with a neighboring septic system producing odors or seepage.
For some recommend septic tank inspectors visit Barrie Home Inspector for contact details.
Copper plumbing and your home. Older homes which have not had their plumbing distribution upgraded can sometimes experience pin hole leaks in their pipes which is the first sign that their whole plumbing supply systems may require replacement.
Copper pipe can be eaten away by corrosion. The common causes of corrosion are; PH of water, O2 in water, presence of minerals, temperature of water and the velocity of the water.
Water PH – This is an issue where the PH is low. Low PH can lead to early corrosion of pipes which can be avoided with water treatment systems. (water softeners) This option is usually not available to apartment buildings etc where the consent of all tenants would be required.
Oxygen – Introducing fresh oxygen to your water system is supplying organisms that eat away at your plumbing distribution system.
Minerals – The coating of minerals on your plumbing distribution systems can sometimes protect and slow down the corrosion process happening in your copper pipes.
Water Temp – High water temperatures increase the rate of corrosion. Organisms thrive in warmer water which greatly accelerates the damage to your pipes.
Velocity – Water travelling at a faster rate “scours” the pipe from minerals etc which causes wear to pipe. Creation of water bubbles and their collapse also cause creation of pinholes through a process known as Capitation.
Most plumbing systems are estimated to last 20 years before replacement is necessary. Pin hole leaks usually occur on hot water lines and then move on to cold water lines which then involves the whole system where an economical decision must be made to keep repairing or replacing complete system.
Copper pipe comes in different grades based on the thickness of the copper pipe wall. The thicker the wall the longer life expectancy. Copper comes in three grades, M for thin wall pipe used mainly inside homes, L for thicker wall pipe, used mainly outside for water services and K, the thickest, used mainly between water mains and the water meter. Copper lasts a long time, is durable and connects well to valves.
If you are replacing your plumbing in your home ensure you know the type of copper pipe is being installed. Upgrading to thicker pipe is not an expensive procedure where labour is the major cost.
Copper should not be installed if the water has a PH of 6.5 or less. The majority of public utilities supply water at a PH between 7.2 and 8.0 . Many of the utilities that have source water with a PH below 6.5 are treating the water to raise the PH. Private well water systems often have a PH below 6.5. When this it the case, installing a treatment system to make the water less acidic becomes a good idea.
If your water is highly corrosive or has other problems, PEX is now used in many new homes and plumbing retrofits.
PEX is an acronym for cross-linked polyethylene. The “PE” refers to the raw material used to make PEX (Polyethylene), and the “X” refers to the cross-linking of the polyethylene across its molecular chains. The molecular chains are linked into a three-dimensional network that makes PEX remarkably durable within a wide range of temperatures, pressures and chemicals.
Flexible, installed with fewer fittings than rigid plumbing systems. A good choice for re-piping and for new homes. Works well for corrosive water conditions.
It can stretch to accommodate the expansion of freezing water and then return to its original size when water thaws. Although it is highly freeze-resistant, no material is freeze-break proof.
One issue with PEX and CPVC, as related to me by a plumber friend who lives in the country, is that mice tend to get into wall cavities and with their ability to chew through things, flexible plumbing could be susceptible to leaks.
Galvanized Plumbing – Although not used in newer homes there are some older homes that still have galvanized plumbing in their home. Insurance companies are very reluctant to insure homes with galvanized plumbing. As explained to me, galvanized plumbing corrodes from the inside out and gives no indication of impending ruptures of pressurized pipe which can lead to expensive clean ups and claims.
If you have this have this type of plumbing expect only 40 years of use from it. The main problem with the pipe is that water will be severely restricted by corrosion that eventually fills the pipe completely. Another problem is the mismatch of metals between the brass valves and the steel. Whenever steel pipe meets copper or brass, you will see rapid corrosion of the steel pipe. Dielectric unions can be used between copper and steel pipes, however some of these unions will close off flow in a short time. In some cities they prefer using a 6″ brass nipple between copper and steel pipes. The problem with dielectric unions is that it breaks the grounding effect if a live electrical wire comes in contact with a pipe. Most cities will require the two pipes to be bonded electrically to maintain the safety of grounded pipes. If your house is over 30 years old, you can plan on replacing pipes to maintain water flow.
Having your home inspected by a Professional Home inspector can fore warn you of existing and problems that may occur in the future. For Peace of Mind during your next residential or commercial purchase call the Barrie Home Inspector
Everything you need to know about plumbing with PEX
PEX Plumbing Information. Crosslinking is a chemical reaction that occurs between polyethylene polymer chains. Crosslinking causes the HDPE to become stronger and resistant to cold temperature cracking or brittleness on impact while retaining its flexibility. The three methods of crosslinking HDPE are the Engels method (PEX-a), the Silane Method (PEX-b), and the Radiation method (PEX-c). Several industry participants claim that the PEX-a method yield more flexible tubing than the other methods. All three types of PEX tubing meet the ASTM, NSF and CSA standards.
PEX plumbing, PEX fittings, PEX tools
PEX (or crosslinked polyethylene) is part of a water supply piping system that has several advantages over metal pipe (copper, iron, lead) or rigid plastic pipe (PVC, CPVC, ABS) systems. It is flexible, resistant to scale and chlorine, doesn’t corrode or develop pinholes, is faster to install than metal or rigid plastic, and has fewer connections and fittings.
PEX plumbing information. PEX tubing is made from crosslinked HDPE (high density polyethylene) polymer. The HDPE is melted and continuously extruded into tube. The crosslinking of the HDPE is accomplished in one of three different methods.
PEX plumbing has been in use in Europe since about 1970, and was introduced in the U.S. around 1980. The use of PEX has been increasing ever since, replacing copper pipe in many applications, especially radiant heating systems installed in the slab under floors or walkways. Interest in PEX for hot and cold water plumbing has increased recently in the United States.
Advantages of PEX Plumbing
Flexible PEX tube is manufactured by extrusion, and shipped and stored on spools, where rigid plastic or metal piping must be cut to some practical length for shipping and storage. This leads to several advantages, including lower shipping and handling costs due to decreased weight and improved storage options.
PEX plumbing installations require fewer fittings than rigid piping. The flexible tubing can turn 90 degree corners without the need for elbow fittings, and PEX tubing unrolled from spools can be installed in long runs without the need for coupling fittings.
Attaching PEX tube to fittings does not require soldering, and so eliminates the health hazards involved with lead-based solder and acid fluxes; PEX is also safer to install since a torch is not needed to make connections..
PEX resists the scale build-up common with copper pipe, and does not pit or corrode when exposed to acidic water.
PEX is much more resistant to freeze-breakage than copper or rigid plastic pipe.
PEX tubing does not transfer heat as readily as copper, and so conserves energy.
Water flows more quietly through PEX tube, and the characteristic “water hammer” noise of copper pipe systems is virtually eliminated.
PEX plumbing installations cost less because:
PEX is less expensive than copper pipe.
Less time is spent running pipe and installing fittings than with rigid pipe systems.
Installing fewer fittings reduces the chances for expensive callbacks.
Oxygen Barriers
Some applications require PEX with added oxygen barrier properties. Radiant floor heating (or hydronic heating systems) may include some ferrous (iron-containing) components which will corrode over time if exposed to oxygen. Since standard PEX tubing allows some oxygen to penetrate through the tube walls, various “Oxygen Barrier PEX” tubing has been designed to prevent diffusion of oxygen into these systems. Two types of specialty PEX pipe are offered:
1. Oxygen barrier PEX has a layer of polymer laminated to the outside surface (or sandwiched internally between PEX layers) that prevents oxygen from penetrating. The polymer film is usually EVOH (ethyl vinyl alcohol copolymer), used in the food industry as an oxygen barrier.
2. PEX-Al-PEX (or PEX-Aluminum-PEX or “PAP”) is a specialty PEX tubing manufactured by several suppliers. This tubing has a layer of aluminum embedded between layers of PEX to provide an oxygen barrier. PEX-Al-PEX may also be calledmultilayer pipe or composite plastic aluminum pipe. PEX-Al-PEX will also retain shape when bent, and may also exhibit less expansion and shrinkage during temperature fluctuations, but may be less flexible than PEX tubing. PEX-AL-PEX costs about 30% more than standard PEX.
PEX Tubing
The terms PEX pipe and PEX tube have been used interchangeably, however some manufacturers distinguish beween the two by manufacturing to different inside/outside diameters. For example, PEXpipe may be manufactured to IPS-ID (iron pipe size, inside diameter controlled) sizes with varying thickness to meet pressure requirements, while PEX tube may be manufactured to CTS-OD (copper tubing size, outside diameter controlled) sizes, commonly with a standard thickness of SDR-9 (standard dimension ratio).
The PEX tube manufactured to CTS-OD sizes is the most common, with available sizes including 3/8″, 1/2″, 5/8″, 3/4″ and 1″. On this website, “PEX tube” refers to this common CTS-OD product.
Before extrusion, the HDPE can be pigmented to yield color-coded pipe. Common PEX tubing colors are “natural” (hazy clear, unpigmented), white, black, red and blue. The red and blue colors are used to help plumbers and homeowners distinguish between hot and cold water supply lines. The tube will bemarked on the outside to show which standards it meets.
As it is produced, PEX is wound onto spools for storage and shipping. A typical spool of 1/2 inch PEX will hold 1200 feet of tubing.
PEX connection methods
Standard Connection Method
The standard method for connecting PEX pipe to brass PEX fittings uses a copper crimp ring and a PEX crimping tool. The copper crimp ring is inserted over the pipe, the fitting is inserted inside the pipe, and the copper ring is crimped over the pipe and fitting using the PEX crimping tool. Tools, fittings and crimp rings are available from several suppliers. Information about testing standards for this method can be found on the ASTM standards page.
Expansion Fitting Method
The expansion method involves using an expansion tool to increase the diameter of the PEX tube. Special expansion fittings are inserted into the expanded tube, which shrinks back to shape around the fitting. A plastic ring is then pressed over the fitting to insure a tight connection.
This method was developed as a proprietary solution, and is currently available from one company. Information about testing standards for this method can be found on the ASTM standards page.
SSC Method
The SSC (stainless steel clamp) method uses special clamps designed for PEX connection. The fittings used here are the same used in the “Standard Connection Method” above, but in this method the SSC fastens the PEX tube to the fitting. A special “SSC crimping tool” is used to tighten the clamp around the tube and fitting. Information about testing standards for this method can be found on the ASTM standards page.
Compression Method
Standard compression fittings can be used to make connections between PEX tubing. For moderate to large size jobs this method is more expensive than using the Standard Connection Method, since compression fittings cost more than PEX fittings.
“Push-fit” and other proprietary methods
Several companies offer specialized fittings that will connect PEX to PEX or to copper, PVC and other materials as well. These fittings use one or more of several technologies such as EDPM O-ring seals, stainless steel gripping teeth, and threaded compression nuts. These fittings are faster and easier than most competing methods, but cost more per fitting than standard PEX fittings.
PEX fittings
PEX fittings are generally made of brass, although some vendors are offering bronze, copper and engineered plastic fittings for PEX. The characteristic ridges on the “insert” part of the fitting distinguish a PEX fitting from other fittings (see pictures below). The ridges, the PEX tube and the crimped copper ring all work together to form a high-pressure seal.
PEX tools
To work with PEX tubing using the standard crimping method, three basic tools are needed: the main crimping tool(s), a pipe cutter, and a de-crimping tool.
The pipe cutter is used to make a clean, square cut before inserting the tubing into the fitting.
The main crimping tool can be purchased in several configurations from various vendors. One popular model has the capability to crimp either 1/2″ or 3/4″ PEX tube, while another uses interchangeable crimp heads to work with any of the PEX tube sizes.
A de-crimping tool is designed to remove the copper crimp ring from the tube and fitting. Various designs all work by cutting the copper ring. Fittings can be easily re-used.
Prices for these tools can vary widely depending on the brand. Buying all the tools together in a kit can reduce the price. Lower prices are also available online using Ebay, Google or Yahoo to search for quality vendors with discounted prices (including warranties).
PEX Tubing Compatibility
Most PEX tubing is compatible with all the various connection methods, with PEX-Al-PEX being the exception.
Compatible PEX Connections
PEX Tubing Manufacturer
PEX Product Name
Tubing Type
Standard Crimp Ring
SSC (Stainless Steel Clamp)
Proprietary Connection Types
Compression Fittings
IPEX
Kitec XPA
PEX-Al-PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
IPEX
CTS SDR9 PEX Tubing
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Rehau
RAUPEX®
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Upanor / Wirsbo
Wirsbo AquaPEX®
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Vanguard
Vanex
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Vanguard
COMPAX-L
PEX-Al-PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Viega
Pexcel
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Viega
FostaPex
PEX-Al-PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Viega
Pextron (Oxygen Barrier)
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Weil-McLain
Qual-Pex (Oxygen Barrier)
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Weil-McLain
AlumiPex
PEX-Al-PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Zurn
Zurn PEX (Non Barrier)
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Zurn
Zurn PEX (Oxygen Barrier)
PEX
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
Compatible
PEX Fittings Compatibility
The Standard Crimp Ring method is the most popular method. The fittings listed under the Proprietary Connection Type column are unique to specific manufacturers, and may use unique tools. Most of these are not compatible with other PEX connection methods.
Standard PEX fittings can be used with the Standard Method and the SSC (clamp) method.
Compression fittings can be used to make connections with PEX tube, but do not use PEX fittings. They are listed to show the manufacturers that make compression fittings specifically for PEX tubing.
Compatible PEX Connections
PEX Fitting
Manufacturer
PEX Fitting
Product Name
Fitting
Type
Standard Crimp Ring
SSC (Stainless Steel Clamp)
Proprietary Connection Type
Compression Fittings
IPEX
Kitec K1
Brass w/ O-ring
No
No
Kitec K1
IPEX
Kitec K2
Brass w/ O-ring
No
No
Kitec K2
Rehau
Everloc® Fittings
Brass
No
No
Everloc
Sioux Chief
PEX Fittings
Copper
Yes
Yes
Tradesmen
Supply
PEXCaliber™
Fittings
Brass
Yes
Yes
Upanor / Wirsbo
ProPEX Fittings
Brass or Plastic
No
No
ProPEX
QS-style
Vanguard
CrimpSert
Brass
Yes
Yes
Viega
ProPress
Copper
No
No
ProPress
Viega
CombiFlex
Fittings
Bronze
No
No
Viega Press
Viega
PureFlow Fittings
Bronze
No
No
Viega Press
Zurn
Qick/Sert™ 1
Fittings
Brass
Yes
Yes
Zurn
PolyAlloy Fittings
Plastic
Yes
Yes
Zurn
QickTite Fittings
Plastic
No
No
QickTite
Zurn
Polymer Fittings
Plastic
No
No
QickClamp
PEX Tool Compatibility
Standard PEX Crimp Tools are available from several vendors, while special PEX tools are required for proprietary PEX connection methods.
