Electrical Bloopers and Your Home Inspection

Electrical Bloopers and Your Home Inspection

There are many electrical deficiencies that I regularly come across during home inspections. Commercial inspections are basically the same except they are more related to maintenance in most cases.  Home owners should pay attention to the condition of their electrical system prior to listing their home.  A Master Electrician will issue a certificate for as little as $130.00 after inspecting your complete electrical system.

Some of the most common items found during home inspections are:

1. Missing outlet and switch covers.  Any opening around the receptacle or cover shall be such that a rod 17/64 in diameter will not enter. Rule 26-700 (11)(b)

2. Panel board locations. They must be readily accessible and shall not be placed above counters or fixed appliances. Rule 26-402   One meter clearance in front. Rule 2-308

3. Un-supported wiring.  Cables do not have to be supported within 12 inches of stud passage ( 12 inches ) but are required to be supported every 1.5 m through out the run. Rule 12-510.

4.  Electrical cables on hot-air ducts. Cables are not permitted to run in areas where ambient temperatures exceed 30 deg C.   Hot water pipes and hot air ducts can exceed this temperature and usually installing fiberglass or like insulation to separate is adequate protection.   Rule 12-506.

5.  Electrical connections made outside of boxes.  Connections shall be made in box having separately bushed hole for each cable.  Also connector has to be installed.  Rule 12-506

6.  Steel studs and electrical cables.  When running lomex cable through metal studs a CSA insert must be used. No pipe or other products may be used.  Rule 12-516

7.  Receptacles exposed to weather.  Shall be provided with weatherproof covers. Rule 26-702

8.  Bathroom GFCI outlets. Must be 1 meter away from bathtubs and showers. At least one GFCI outlet must be located within 1 m (39 in) of one wash basin.  Rule 26-110

9.  Receptacles for walls.  Any finished wall, that extends past 450 mm from floor level, shall have outlets located every 1.8 m horizontally.  Rule 26-712

10.  Garage Outlets.  At least one duplex receptacle shall be provided for each car space in garage. Rule 26-714

11.  GFCI outlet protection.  GFCI outlets should trip at 3 to 5 ma range.  Outlets should be tested, power will still be provided to outlet even if GFCI is not functioning properly. They are required to be tested on monthly basis.  Rule 26-714

12.  Dryer and Stove boxes.  Must be secured from back or on two sides.  Rule 26-744

13.  Electric water heaters.  Shall be provided their own circuit.  Rule 26-750

14.  Protection of circuits.  All branch circuits within 1.5 m of floor shall be protected from mechanical injury.  Rule 26-802

These are some of the more common deficiencies that are commonly noted on home and commercial inspections. There are many more rules which are too numerous to cover in detail.  If you have any particular questions please just send me an email and I will be happy to give you the applicable rule or consult with one of the many electricians I deal with for the  proper response.

CAVEAT EMPTOR – BUYER BEWARE     Remember to check for experience, length of time in business and always ask for references!

 

Aluminum Wiring Facts

Aluminum wiring facts.  In the late 1960?s and early 1970’s copper prices rose and contractors/electricians switched from copper to lower costing aluminum wiring. Although no longer common for distribution circuits, aluminum wiring is still used today in certain applications. For example, 240 volt circuits for stoves and dryers. It sometimes is used on the main service entrance wire from the road to the house.

Concerns with this type of wiring have arisen, for example, when aluminum wire is connected to devices (eg. receptacles, light fixtures) which were not designed for aluminum, or, when aluminum and copper wires are attached. In these cases a reaction can occur causing the connections to fail, perhaps become disconnected, and/or, potentially overheat, spark and catch fire. Symptoms of this can sometimes be seen in the discoloration of receptacles, flickering lights, or the smell of hot plastic insulation.
The conductivity of aluminum is not as good as copper so a different, thicker, gauge wire must used. For example, today the most common copper wire size is 14 gauge. The comparable aluminum wire size used was 12 gauge.

In their most recent 1997 Safety Notice, Ontario Hydro states:
“Aluminum wiring in residential installations will operate as safely as any other type of wiring if the proper materials are used and it is installed as per the manufacturer’s instructions and the Ontario Hydro Electrical Safety Code.”
Special care must be taken to ensure, for example, that connections are made to receptacles that are suitable for aluminum wiring. Further, where aluminum and copper wires are connected that proper paste/flux, and/or, the appropriate wire connectors, are used.
Regardless of the wiring type used, no circuits should overloaded or over fused.

What do you do if you suspect a problem?
Have a qualified electrician check:
1) Terminations at devices without removing or disturbing them.
2) Cut back any damaged aluminum conductors and join these to a copper tail using a connector approved for use with aluminum. These connectors are coloured either brown or purple, depending on the manufacturer. The copper tail is then terminated at the terminal screws of an ordinary device (which includes approved receptacles, etc.). Or, cut back any damaged aluminum conductors and re-terminate at a new device bearing the appropriate marking. Only devices bearing the mark CO/ALR are currently approved for use with aluminum wiring.
3) Panel board terminations for signs of overheating.
4) Fuses present for heavy loads are temperature sensitive type (D or P).

If a home has aluminum wiring and you suspect problems may exist further professional advice from a qualified electrician, experienced in repairing aluminum wiring concerns, is recommended.

Carbon Monoxide Detectors Ontario and Barrie Regulations

Carbon Monoxide Detectors Ontario and Barrie Regulations

Location
As per section 9.33.4.2 of the Ontario building code, where a fuel-burning appliance is installed in an occupied residence, a carbon monoxide detector must be installed adjacent to each bedroom in the house. If you have a fuel-burning appliance installed in a service room that is not a bedroom, a detector must also be installed. The city of Mississauga’s by-law defines a service room as any room located in a multiunit residential structure, which is not a dwelling unit or within a dwelling unit.
Installation
Section 9.33.4.3. requires that a carbon monoxide detector be permanently connected to an electrical circuit and it should not be disconnected; all detectors should be activated within your residency suite, and it must be equipped with an alarm that will be heard within the bedrooms when the doors are closed. It is your responsibility to ensure that a detector is in proper working order.

With the increased winter chill comes a rise in the danger from deadly carbon monoxide gas – “CO”. The odourless colourless tasteless
two molecule Carbon Monoxide gas is a by-product of incomplete combustion and combustion without proper ventilation. It accounts for
greater mortality and morbidity than all other poisonings combined. It is a sly and silent killer. Carbon Monoxide gas can quickly build up
to dangerous levels and knock you out before you realize what is happening.

Carbon Monoxide enters blood system through lungs and displaces oxygen. Carbon Monoxide quickly binds with hemoglobin with an
affinity 200 ~250 times greater than that of Oxygen to form Carboxyhemoglobin resulting decrease in arterial oxygen content. Fetal
hemoglobin has much higher affinity for Carbon Monoxide than adult hemoglobin; thus a fetus may be more susceptible to toxic effects
than mother. Pregnant women with only moderate Carbon Monoxide poisoning have had devastating fetal outcomes. Carbon Monoxide
is also an abortifacient and a teratogen, resulting in physical deformities and psychomotor disabilities. Intracellular uptake of Carbon
Monoxide is a mechanism for neurologic damage and cognitive defects, particularly in memory and learning, and movement disorders
that may not appear for days following the initial poisoning. The brain and heart are very sensitive to Carbon Monoxide poisoning; other
organs are also affected.

Awareness of the symptoms of Carbon Monoxide can lead to early intervention and prevent needless deaths. The symptoms of Carbon
Monoxide poisoning are headache, dizziness and nausea.

In 2003 in Ontario, 9 people were seriously injured and 4 died from Carbon Monoxide poisoning. From 1999 to 2003, at least 17 people
have died from Carbon Monoxide poisoning in Ontario. From 1998 to 2001, The Ontario Fire Marshall investigated 47,278 Carbon
Monoxide incidence, though the vast majority were not serious cases.

Incomplete fuel combustion and a vent system that does not adequately remove the exhaust are the two basic failures to all combustion
appliance Carbon Monoxide problems and very often these two failures are interrelated. For example, during backdrafting all the
products of combustion spill into the room housing the appliance leads to the appliance to breathes its own fumes, which causes
incomplete combustion and Carbon Monoxide is produced.

Faulty Home heating systems, propane, kerosene or gas heaters, car exhaust including plugged tail pipes, barbecues and blocked
chimneys can cause a build up of Carbon Monoxide.

Preventing indoor Carbon Monoxide problems is not impossible. Proper installation and regular maintenance of combustion appliances
by trained and qualified heating contractors reduces the possibility of Carbon Monoxide emissions and venting failures. Installing reliable
Carbon Monoxide detectors is the simplest way to detect the presence of Carbon Monoxide. But only 40% of homes have Carbon
Monoxide detectors. And of the homes that have the detectors, only about 25% check their batteries regularly. Carbon Monoxide
detectors should be installed near heating system and in sleeping areas. Properly installed detectors monitor Carbon Monoxide levels
over time and are designed to sound an alarm before an average, healthy adult would experience symptoms of poisoning.

Carbon Monoxide detectors do have limitations. Some may not provide adequate warning if Carbon Monoxide increases to very high
levels. Infants, the elderly,and people with heart or breathing problems are at increased risk for low level poisoning and may experience
symptoms before an alarm sounds. Thus, a Carbon Monoxide detector is not a substitute for proper use and regular maintenance and
inspection of all potential sources of Carbon Monoxide.

Many Home owners report Carbon Monoxide detector going off, but find their contractor unable to diagnose the cause since Carbon
Monoxide sources elude the contractors. Identifying the source of Carbon Monoxide is not simple. Many contractors misdiagnose the
problems. For example they may claim the problem was Carbon Monoxide detector though Carbon Monoxide problem was evident or
say the problem was caused by freak occurrence in the weather and would not happen again.
The causes of Carbon Monoxide are varied as unvented appliances, use of gas cookers for heating, portable space heaters, hibachi and
charcoal cookers, heat exchanger failures, lack of combustion air, overfiring, depressurization of the combustion appliance zone causing
back drafting, vent failures or vehicle running in the attached garage. Any of these might set off a Carbon Monoxide detector, but
conditions may have changed by the time the contractor arrives at the house to identify the source. For example, back drafting of furnace
might set off a Carbon Monoxide alarm but if a window is opened, the pressure in the combustion zone will change. This could reverse
the backdrafting and change the reading on the Carbon Monoxide detectors. Down drafting of combustion appliances, running vehicles
in the garage, depressurization from kitchen fans, bathroom fans, dryer, central vacuum & attic vent fans, wind and charcoal grills are
usually intermittent problems and easy to overlook during investigation.

Combustion products usually go up the vent, but certain conditions may cause them to spill at the draft diverter or out the burner ports.
Buoyant (lifting)forces that cause combustion products to vent result from temperature differences. The buoyant forces are small and
easily over powered by other, more powerful forces. The buoyant force is usually around 5Pa, is only 1/6 oz in a 4in diameter round vent
pipe. Wind forces, exhaust fans and the furnace blower are all more powerful and can reverse the flow in the vents. Combustion
appliances also compete for air. For example, when a fireplace and furnace are both operating they both need combustion air. If the
house is tight, they will compete with each other for combustion air they need.

Technicians often hold a match near the draft hood to check for proper draft, and this method is suggested by some manufacturers.
However holding a match is not good way to check, because the match is a hot source, and the smoke will tend to rise even if it is not
being pulled up into the draft hood. Instead, technicians should use a smoke stick of neutral density, such as those used to check for
infiltration during house leakage tests.

Vent failures are often sporadic, intermittent and difficult to reproduce. Because pressure differences are small, it takes only a small
change to cause warm gases to vent incorrectly. Often a down draft will occur when house is closed. Simply opening the front door once
can change the pressures, allowing warm air to go up the vent again.

A properly adjusted gas furnace or water heater produces hardly any Carbon Monoxide. When too much gas is supplied to the burner,
sufficient oxygen does not flow to the burner and Carbon Monoxide is produced. I find overfiring to be the more common cause of
Carbon Monoxide problems in a Home than heat exchanger failure. Overfiring often occurs in conjunction with intermittent vent failure and
is therefore difficult to diagnose unless proper procedures and equipment are used. Overfired units typically still burn with a blue flame.
Too often, without proper test instruments, the heating contractor will assume that the unit is burning clean.

The difference between a properly adjusted furnace and a overfired furnace are extreme. An overfired furnace can produce more than
4500ppm Carbon Monoxide in the vent. A simple reduction in gas pressure, which takes two minutes to perform, can bring Carbon
Monoxide levels back to below 20ppm.

How do excess gas pressures occur? Sometimes, the gas regulator can fail, or in some cases the installing contractor does not perform
the initial gas pressure adjustment. In yet other cases, the heating contractor or homeowner, desiring more heat, may increase the gas
flow by changing the gas pressure adjustment. Overfiring may also caused by improper orifices, which can result when units are changed
from propane to natural gas or from natural gas to propane. Manufacturers typically desire no overfiring beyond a tolerance of +2%. Yet I
find units 25% overfired. Because overfiring can not be diagnosed by flame colour, it is vital that all heating contractors perform the
following steps:
1/ Check the rate of gas flow to the burner, and check for overfiring by clocking the meter(In other words using the test dial on the gas
meter to verify that the appliance is using the proper amount of gas)
2/ Check manifold gas pressure using an accurate manometer.
3/ Ensure gas orifices are correct
4/ Measure Carbon Monoxide concentrations in the combustion products.

Holes or cracks in the heat exchanger which keeps the furnace exhaust from mixing with house air, can cause Carbon Monoxide
problems. Holes and cracks can allow exhaust to enter the duct system and be distributed throughout the house and also allow air from
the blower to enter the burner chamber and disrupt burner operation, increasing the amount of Carbon Monoxide produced. Airflow
through large holes or cracks can cause combustion products spillage at burner ports – a very dangerous situation. High efficiency
furnaces also have a secondary heat exchanger, which removes heat from exhaust gases causing them to condensate.

Some of the causes of premature heat exchanger failure are:
1/ Incorrect temperature rise – The temperature can be either too high or too low caused by incorrect blower speed selection,
restricted or insufficient duct work, dirty filters or missing filters. The correct range for temperature rise is on the information plate of each
furnace.
2/ Contaminated indoor air – Contaminants like chlorine fumes from the nearby laundry machines, paint thinners and aerosol sprays
are hard on high efficiency furnaces as they create acids in condensation, which attributes to corrosion. Use sealed combustion to
prevent corrosion from contaminants.
3/ Incorrect gas flow rate – Many units are overfired, running rich and hot. Overfired units do not have sufficient air for complete
combustion. Cracking of heat exchanger, sooting and Carbon Monoxide can result from overfiring.
4/ Oversizing – This causes rapid on / off cycling without sufficient time to heat the furnace exchanger or vent. Condensation forms
and does not get evaporated out. The “wet time” is excessive.

Carbon Monoxide poisoning is the leading cause of poisoning deaths in North America. To often people think that CO poisoning can not
happen to them, since they live in a drafty older house or have a new furnace. This is not true as Carbon Monoxide poisoning can occur
in older loose houses or newer tight houses and can be caused by new furnaces as well as old ones.

Arc Fault Electrical Basics

Arc Fault Electrical Basics.  Although new to the NEC, AFCIs are important for protecting against arc faults.

Unsafe arc faults can occur as series or parallel arcs. A series arc can occur when the conductor in series with the load breaks. The series configuration means the arc current cannot be greater than the load current the conductor serves. Typically, series arcs don’t develop sufficient thermal energy to create a fire.

More dangerous is the parallel arc fault, which can occur as a short circuit or a ground fault. A short circuit arc decreases the dielectric strength of insulation separating the conductors, allowing a high-impedance, low-current arc fault to develop that carbonizes the conductor’s insulation, further decreasing the dielectric of the insulation separating the conductors. The result is increased current, exponentially increased thermal energy, and the likelihood of a fire. The current flow in a short circuit, parallel arc fault is limited by the system impedance and the impedance of the arc fault itself.

A ground fault parallel arc fault can occur only when a ground path is present. This type of arc fault can be cleared by a GFCI or an AFCI. The RMS current value for parallel arc faults will be considerably less than that of a solid, bolted-type fault. Therefore, a typical 15A breaker might not clear this fault before a fire ignites.

UL 1699 contains the requirements for listing AFCI devices. Each type of AFCI protects different aspects of the branch circuit and extension wiring. However, only the branch/feeder AFCI meets NEC requirements. AFCIs are not designed to prevent fires caused by series arcing at loose connections. Let’s look at examples of AFCIs.

Branch/feeder AFCI.

This device is installed at the origin of a branch circuit or feeder like a panelboard. It provides parallel arc-fault protection for branch circuit wiring, cord sets, and power supply cords. It’s not UL-Listed to provide series-type arc-fault protection.

Combination AFCI.

This device, which is typically a receptacle, provides parallel and series arc-fault protection for branch circuit wiring, cord sets and power supply cords downstream from the device. It doesn’t, however, provide parallel arc-fault protection upstream.

Outlet circuit AFCI

This device is installed at a branch circuit outlet. It provides parallel and series arc-fault protection for the cord sets and power-supply cords plugged into the outlet. However, it doesn’t provide arc-fault protection on feed-through branch circuit conductors, nor does it provide parallel arc-fault protection upstream from the device.

Although AFCIs have their uses, it’s important to note that these protection devices are not designed to prevent fires caused by series arcing at loose connections in devices like switches or receptacles.

Article by Mike Holt

Barrie Real Estate Agents
Greenfield DND IRP Information

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Protection on Receptacles

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Protection on Receptacles

Required Receptacles in Residential Washrooms
Rule 26-710(f)
Rule 26-710(f) states that at least one receptacle shall be installed within 1 m of the washbasin located in each bathroom or washroom.

GFCI Protection of Kitchen Counter Receptacles
Rule 26-700(12)
The 2002 edition of the Ontario Electrical Safety Code includes an Ontario amendment to Rule 26-700, which requires Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) protection for Kitchen Counter receptacles effective January 1, 2003. The new Subrule (26-700(12) states that effective January 2003:
(12) Receptacles located in kitchens and installed within 1 m of a kitchen sink along the wall behind counter work surfaces shall be protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter of the Class A type.
Appendix B note: Distance of 1 m is measured from edge of kitchen sink.
The following guidelines shall be used for consistent interpretation and application of this new subrule effective January 1, 2003.
1. This rule applies to all receptacle installations located within 1 m of a kitchen sink along the wall behind counter work surfaces where the plans or application for inspection is received on or after January 1, 2003.

© Electrical Safety Authority Page 1 of 3
September 2005 Supersedes Bulletin 26-13-9 March 2005
BULLETIN 26-13-10
2. This rule applies to all kitchens.
2.1. Kitchen is defined as “a place (as a room) with cooking facilities”
2.2. A cooking facility is defined as a range or stove (electric or gas supply) for cooking. Hot plates, microwaves, etc. are not defined as a cooking facility for application of this rule.
3. In dwelling units, Rules 26-712(d) and 26-722(b) require that kitchen counter receptacles be split receptacles connected to multi-wire 15 amp branch circuits. Rule 26-726 permits the installation of 5-20 RA (T-slot) receptacles connected to single 20 amp branch circuits as an alternative to split receptacles and circuits.
4. The adjacency requirement as stated in Rules 26-722(b) and 26-726(3) has been deemed to offer no added safety value to an installation. The Canadian Electrical Code has deleted the adjacency requirement in the next edition. ESA along with the Ontario Provincial Code Council has reviewed the Part I direction and the adjacency requirement in Rule 26-722 for counter receptacles is no longer applicable”.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Protection on Receptacles within 3 m of Washbasins, Bathtubs or Showers
Rule 26-700(11)
To assist in consistent application of this rule, the intent of the rule is to provide protection against electrical shock hazard when using portable personal grooming appliances.
(1) The requirements of the rule apply to receptacles located in a bathroom or washroom and installed within 3 m of washbasins, bathtubs or showers.
In addition to bathrooms and washrooms found in dwelling units, a washroom will be considered as any room containing personal washing facilities found in occupancies such as motels, hotels, golf clubs, barber shops, health clubs, sports facilities, commercial and industrial installations, where the receptacle is at counter height and a personal grooming appliance could be used.
(2) Doctors’ examining rooms, dentists’ offices, laboratories, classrooms and similar areas are not considered as washrooms. However, if there is a bathroom or washroom in a patient care area the receptacle shall be GFCI protected as per subrule 24-106(3).
(3) The rule does not apply to receptacles in combined bath and laundry rooms provided the receptacle is located behind the washing machine at not more than 600 mm from the floor as per Rule 26-710(h).
Size of Outlet Box
Rule 12-3036 and Tables 22 and 23
There has been inconsistent interpretation of the code concerning the minimum size outlet box to be used where receptacle type GFCI’s are installed – that is, can a standard 204 ml (12.5 cubic inch) box be used or must it be larger?
Where the GFCI is more than 2.54 cm (one inch) thick (e.g. 3.81 cm or 1½ inches), and the circuit continues beyond the GFCI with AWG No 14 copper conductors, the code requires use of an outlet box with at least a 221 ml (13.5 cubic inch) capacity. Applying Rule 12-3036, a 3.81 cm or (1½ inch) thick GFCI is considered to occupy 123 ml (7.5 cubic inches) (subrule 3), four No 14 AWG conductors occupy 98.4 ml (6 cubic inches) (Table 22), for a total of 221 ml (13.5 cubic inches). A 204 ml (12.5 cubic inch) capacity box cannot be used.
However, if the GFCI receptacle is the last on the circuit, the required volume is 172 ml (10.5 cubic inches) and a 204 ml (12.5 cubic inch) box can be used.
The above provides a sample calculation for older type GFCI’s. GFCI receptacles with side terminals and that measure 3 cm or less in depth from the back of the mounting strap are now readily available from most
© Electrical Safety Authority Page 2 of 3
September 2005 Supersedes Bulletin 26-13-9 March 2005
BULLETIN 26-13-10
manufacturers. The following table illustrates the minimum depth of 3 x 2 device box required for some different installations based Table 23:
GFCI depth from back of strap
2 insulated # 14 AWG conductors
4 insulated # 14 AWG conductors
less than or equal to
3 cm
3 x 2 x 2 device box
3 x 2 x 2.5 device box
less than or equal to
4 cm
3 x 2 x 2.5 device box
3 x 2 x 3 device box
The following table illustrates the minimum depth of 3 x 2 device box required for GFCI receptacles at kitchen counters connected to 20 amp #12 AWG branch circuits based Table 23:
GFCI depth from back of strap
2 insulated # 12 AWG conductors
4 insulated # 12 AWG conductors
less than or equal to
3 cm
3 x 2 x 2 device box
3 x 2 x 3 device box
less than or equal to
4 cm
3 x 2 x 2.5 device box
3 x 2 x 3 device box
The cubic inch capacity of common outlet box types are in Table 23. For those not shown in Table 23, Canadian Standards Association standard C22.2 No 18-92 requires the capacity to be marked on the box in ml. (100 ml are equivalent to 6.1 cubic inches).
GFCI Protection of Receptacles in Carports and Garages
Rule 26-714
Do receptacles located in a carport for a dwelling unit require GFCI protection?
Yes, all receptacles located in a carport shall be considered as outdoors and shall be protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter of the Class A type.
A carport receptacle is not on an interior surface of a building, it is on the exterior surface facing out, and hence it is outdoors. Rule 26-714(b) says all receptacles installed outdoors and within 2.5 m of grade level… shall be GFCI protected.
A well-known dictionary defines a carport as a shelter for an automobile, consisting of a roof extended from the side of a building. Using the Ontario Building Code for additional guidance, a carport shall be considered as being a shelter for an automobile, consisting of a roof extended from the side of a building and having less than 60% of the perimeter closed in by walls, doors or windows.
The Ontario Building Code states a carport that has more than 60% of the total perimeter enclosed by walls, doors, or windows shall be considered as being a garage.
The Ontario Electrical Safety Code does not require GFCI protection of receptacles within a garage however it is recommended that receptacles in a garage that may be used for outdoor appliances be protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter of the Class A type.
© Electrical Safety Authority Page 3 of 3

Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters

In Ontario Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters have been required for use in bedroom outlets since 2002. They are not required for lighting circuit or anywhere else in home.

Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCIs) are special types of electrical outlets and circuit breakers designed to detect and respond to potentially dangerous electrical arcs in home branch wiring.

How do they work

AFCIs function by monitoring the electrical waveform and promptly opening (interrupting) the circuit they serve if they detect changes in the wave pattern that are characteristic of a dangerous arc. They also must be capable of distinguishing safe, normal arcs, such as those created when a switch is turned on or a plug is pulled from a receptacle, from arcs that can cause fires. An AFCI can detect, recognize, and respond to very small changes in wave pattern.

What is an arc?

When an electric current crosses an air gap from an energized component to a grounded component, it produces a glowing plasma discharge known as an arc. For example, a bolt of lightening is a very large, powerful arc that crosses an atmospheric gap from an electrically charged cloud to the ground or another cloud. Just as lightning can cause fires, arcs produced by domestic wiring are capable of producing high levels of heat that can ignite their surroundings and lead to structure fires.

According to statistics from the National Fire Protection Agency for the year 2005, electrical fires damaged approximately 20,900 homes, killed 500 people, and cost $862 million in property damage. Although short-circuits and overloads account for many of these fires, arcs are responsible for the majority and are undetectable by traditional (non-AFCI) circuit breakers.

Where are arcs likely to form?

Arcs can form where wires are improperly installed or when insulation becomes damaged. In older homes, wire insulation tends to crystallize as it ages, becoming brittle and prone to cracking and chipping. Damaged insulation exposes the current-carrying wire to its surroundings, increasing the chances that an arc may occur.

Situations in which arcs may be created:

electrical cords damaged by vacuum cleaners or trapped beneath furniture or doors.
damage to wire insulation from nails or screws driven through walls.
appliance cords damaged by heat, natural aging, kinking, impact or over-extension.
spillage of liquid.
loose connections in outlets, switches and light fixtures.
Where are AFCIs required?

Locations in which AFCIs are required depend on the building codes adopted by their jurisdiction. Inspectors are responsible for knowing what building codes are used in the areas in which they inspect.

The 2006 International Residential Code (IRC) requires that AFCIs be installed within bedrooms in the following manner:

E3802.12 Arc-Fault Protection of Bedroom Outlets. All branch circuits that supply120-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-amp outlets installed in bedrooms shall be protected by a combination-type or branch/feeder-type arc-fault circuit interrupter installed to provide protection of the entire branch circuit.

Exception: The location of the arc-fault circuit interrupter shall be permitted to be at other than the origination of the branch circuit, provided that:

The arc-fault circuit interrupter is installed within 6 feet of the branch circuit overcurrent device as measured along the branch circuit conductors, and
The circuit conductors between the branch circuit overcurrent device and the arc-fault circuit interrupter are installed in a metal raceway or a cable with metallic sheath.

What types of AFCIs are available?

The four most common types of AFCIs are as follows:

Branch/feeder—installed at the main electrical panel or sub-panel.
Outlet circuit—installed in a branch-circuit outlet.
Combination—complies with the requirements of both the branch/feeder and the outlet circuit AFCIs.
Cord—a plug-in device connected to the receptacle outlet.
Nuisance Tripping

An AFCI might activate in situations that are not dangerous and create needless power shortages. This can be particularly annoying when an AFCI stalls power to a freezer or refrigerator, allowing its contents to spoil. There are a few procedures an electrical contractor can perform in order to reduce potential “nuisance tripping,” such as:

Check that the load power wire, panel neutral wire and load neutral wire are properly connected.
Check wiring to ensure that there are no shared neutral connections.
Check the junction box and fixture connections to ensure that the neutral conductor contacts a grounded conductor.
Arc Faults vs. Ground Faults

It is important to distinguish AFCI devices from Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) devices. GFCIs detect ground faults, which occur when current leaks from a hot (ungrounded) conductor to a grounded object as a result of a short-circuit. This situation can be hazardous when a person unintentionally becomes the current’s path to the ground. GFCIs function by constantly monitoring the current flow between hot and neutral (grounding) conductors, and activate when they sense a difference of 5 milliamps or more. Thus, GFCIs are intended to prevent personal injury due to electric shock, while AFCIs prevent personal injury and property damage due to structure fires.