Home Inspection protects Your Investment
The first step in having your home inspected is hiring a Home Inspector. This in itself can be a pretty daunting task as you really have to be able to separate the wheat from the chaff. New Home Inspector websites are popping up every week and are professionally designed full of nice pictures and advertising lingo. The main items of concern for potential home buyers is to pick a home inspector who has, previous experience in building homes, Home Inspector training and Provincial Courses related to construction of home, has professional affiliations with Building or Building related organizations and last but not least many years experience and a large number of previously inspected homes. Ask what the Inspector’s guarantee is, do they offer a 100% Satisfaction Guarantee? Many times when I see a new site pop up on Google that states they have been in “Inspection Business” for the past 20 years, I simply do a “whois” seach on Google and usually find the website is less than a year or two old. Is that the type of honesty you want in someone inspecting your home?
For most people buying a home will be one of major investments that they will ever make. Anyone who has watched Mike Holmes knows that there are all kinds of horror stories out there and those people started out just like you. Their Realtor helped them find a house they liked at the right price and then they were recommended to have a home inspection done. Many Home Buyers are adamant about finding and hiring their own home inspector. Their reasoning is usually based on the fact that if the Realtor contacts the home inspector on their behalf, the home inspector might have a subtle conflict of interest and be more concerned about getting that next job vs. ensuring every little defect is pointed out to the buyer. MOST Professional home inspectors are dedicated to the buyers interests only and will endeavor to produce a report that will detail every visible deficiency so that the home buyer can make an informed decision.
Every home has its issues. Hiring a Professional Home Inspector will usually reveal this secrets. A home inspection will often provide the buyer with information such as a potential for mould, presence of asbestos or water penetration or leaks. This information is provided by performing a visual inspection of the property and noting any deficiencies in a detailed report. Some of the more important issues a home inspector will point out and discuss with you is “poor drainage”, which can lead to wet basements, wood rot and possible mould growth. Worn out shingles or roofing material is a common issue and an expensive rear. Some sellers will only re-shingle 1/2 or 3/4’s of the roof and that fact is not always visible from the ground. There are so many issues such as; asbestos, aluminum wiring, knob and tube wiring, renovation done without a permit, water in basement, shifting foundations, galvanized plumbing and vermiculite insulation. The cost of fixing any of these issues is measured in the thousands of dollars not hundreds.
Professional Realtors will provide a Sellers Property Information Statement that is typically filled out by the seller when listing the property. This form cannot be totally relied upon as some sellers are reluctant to disclose any deficiency that may lower the price they will receive for their home. Legally if the seller agrees to the SPIS and agrees it will form part of the contract of purchase then the buyer can rely on the information supplied. If the seller knowingly withheld information that would have affected the sale of the home they could be held financially liable.
Currently, home inspectors are not regulated by any federal government or provincial agencies although British Columbia and Alberta have licensing in place. Ontario is attempting to have licencing for home inspectors in the near future. Until then it is Caveat Emptor, Buyer Beware.
Century Home Inspections
Real estate buyers cannot seem to get enough good quality Century Homes. Anytime I am inspecting a fairly well maintained century home it seems that the buyers were just about always in a bidding war with someone else who also wanted the property. Considering the work and expense usually involved in fixing up one of these older homes, I find it amazing the lure these older homes have on people. Century homes can be a money pit or a beautiful piece of history, and sometimes it is hard for the novice home owner to recognize the difference. Any home that has been around this long has most likely had many renovations over the years and at least some of them were do it yourself type improvements. It takes a trained eye to spot the differences in workmanship but the end result could be thousands of dollars in repairs if home buyer is not aware of some of the common pitfalls involved in buying a century home.
There are some basic items that usually are an issue in century homes and if the previous owners have not properly dealt with them the home buyers will most likely be shocked to find the amount of work and expense they may be facing. Common items are structural, asbestos, knob and tube wiring, 60 amp service and galvanized plumbing.
Every foundation on a century home is different. There were no strict building codes a hundred years ago and everyone built their homes a little different although the concept was basically the same. Most structures are supported on rock and cement walls. These old walls will still be standing after we are long gone and are usually in pretty good shape. Water problems can affect the mortar between stones and if you have any movement you may have to bring in a structural engineer for advice. If your mortar is deteriorating you can remove loose bits and re-point the stones and even give it a coat of white wash for more appealing look. If your wall is bowing or showing other signs of significant movement there may be an issue with expansive soils causing pressure on your foundation wall. This will require the services of a an experienced foundation contractor and will most likely be an expensive repair. Some foundations may require a sister wall to be poured to strengthen the existing foundation, this also is a job for an experienced contractor. Many older homes have a concrete base poured around the existing foundation to add to stability and prevent movement.
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Asbestos was used as an insulator for heating equipment and plumbing wrap in older homes. Although it is un-common to still find asbestos still in place in older homes there are areas where it may have been installed and very difficult to remove, so has been left in place. Service areas between floors is a common place to find left behind asbestos and can be very difficult to remove without replacing piping. Attics in century homes are common places to find vermiculite insulation. Any vermiculite manufactured in the Libby Montana mines is contaminated with asbestos. Asbestos cannot be visually detected in vermiculite and samples have to be sent out to labs for testing. Depending on amount and size of asbestos presence the cost of removal can be very expensive. Large amounts require encapsulated workers to have a completed sealed off work area and a decontamination area plus a clean zone. All asbestos must be properly bagged, tagged and disposed of in specific locations.
Many century homes had galvanized plumbing installed at one time in their past. This is a steel pipe which has been covered with a protective coating of zinc. One of the problems with galvanized pipe is that the minerals in the water react with galvanized material and cause scale build up. Life expectancy of most galvanized pipe is generally considered to be from 50 to 70 years, which becomes a problem if it is still in place in your potential new home. Some insurance companies will refuse to cover a home containing galvanized plumbing. Again many people will replace the accessible galvanized plumbing but may leave areas between floors and walls which are hard to access.
Knob and tube wiring is still in use in many older homes and many home owners don’t even know it is in their home. This is electrical wiring which is run between exposed porcelain insulators and looks a little like a train track as there are two conductors running beside each other. Most insurance companies will not ensure a home with knob and tube wiring and you will have to get an electrical contractor to replace any found in the home. Attics are common places where knob and tube was left and even connected to the newer type of Romex cable by either lazy electricians or un-educated home owners.
Many older homes can have a 100 amp panel installed and the listing may even list the property as having a 100 amp service, but this may not always be true. There are many times where the property owner has installed a 100 amp panel but has not upgraded the service. Always check the main switch where the service enters the building to ensure that it is not a 50 or 60 amp service that has just had a newer panel board installed. In Ontario most insurance companies will not insure a home with a 60 amp service and you will be required to upgrade service and sometimes the mast also may require an upgrade.
There are many other issues that potential buyers of century homes may encounter and some maybe very expensive to repair. Protect yourself and your investment with a professional home inspection which can prevent expensive surprises and allow you to objectively evaluate the property prior to purchase.
When buying a Century Home in Simcoe County call Roger Frost – Your Barrie Century Home Inspector
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Choosing Your Home Inspector. Buying a house is the biggest purchase you’ll likely ever make. That’s why you want the best possible home inspector in your corner to tell you whether that cute Bungalow is your dream home … or a lemon with a rotting foundation, aluminum wiring and vermiculite insulation.
But first, how do you know if an inspector is rock-solid? There’s a lot riding on the person you choose, after all. “You’ve got one opportunity of having the home looked at by a professional who has professional training and professional experience to find defects. These are some of the top suggestions gathered from around North America on how to choose a Home Inspector.
A Lot of Organizations
There are tens of thousands of home inspectors nationwide today. That’s in Canada and US. Many inspectors were lured into the business by promises of easy money. No wonder would-be homeowners have trouble knowing whom to trust.
Unfortunately, there are not many requirements for someone to be licensed home inspector. “You can just hang your shingle and go for it.” Even Licensing does not solve problems, in fact is has created more some States where more people jumped on the “Home Inspection” bandwagon, because obtaining a simple license gave them “Respectability”.
Tip No. 1:
Don’t trust an inspector simply because he or she has a state or provincial license or certification. All states or provinces that issue licenses require training, but the training may be so minimal that it is ineffective.
Tip No. 2:
Look for an inspector who is associated with a professional inspection organization. This can help weed out the truly fly-by-night inspectors, but it won’t catch all the bad actors. There is an mixed bag of such groups, with wildly varying criteria for membership. In one, you can send them a $60 check and you’ll be a member.
Look for affiliation with groups such as NAHI, the National Institute of Building Inspectors, and the American Society of Home Inspectors. These are some of the most reputable inspector associations, and their Web sites have a “find an inspector” service to locate a member in your area.
You can also study several home inspection organizations’ criteria for membership: how many homes a would-be member must have inspected; how much — if any — continuing education is required; whether an exam is required for admission, etc. Each is a little different. Inspectors who are fully certified by ASHI, the nation’s oldest such group, with 5,700 members, are required to have completed at least 250 paid professional home inspections and passed two written exams, for example.
Tip No. 3:
Don’t just take your agent’s recommendation at face value. Real-estate agents often recommend inspectors to home buyers. But that arrangement doesn’t necessarily serve the home buyer well, since both agent and inspector have a financial incentive for things to go well: for the agent, a commission, and for the inspector, the possibility of repeat business from the agent. Still, experts suggest some ways to make sure your interests are served.
How To Protect Yourself
Don’t settle. Get more than one suggestion from your real-estate agent. Turner suggests asking for three inspectors’ names. Richardson says to ask for five.
Ask the tough questions. Ask the agent flat out, ‘Would you hire any of these to inspect your home, or your family’s home? This will put them on the spot. Also, ask the agent or others you know, “Who’s the deal-killer in this area? as quoted by many authors and real estate advisors Who’s the Real Estate agents worst nightmare inspector with a reputation for killing deals because he finds all of a home’s flaws. That’s typically who you want.
Tip No. 4:
Ask the hard questions. Once you’ve got an inspector in mind, start looking around his résumé and asking questions. In other words, inspect the Inspector.
Interview the inspector. Any professional will be happy to talk to you. Here’s what to ask:
Talk to me. First, the inspector should make time to talk to you and answer your questions. A true professional will just roll out the information without any hesitation.
Let’s see the résumé. Ask about the inspector’s credentials and experience. Generally speaking, “You should have had a hammer in your hand at some point in your background to have a good grasp of construction.” One Franchise company has this to say about experience, when asked:
I don’t have any construction experience, does that matter?
A: No, business and management acumen, computer prowess and the confidence to market your business and manage others are significantly more important. Home inspections are a learnable skill, especially when taught by the most experienced staff in the industry who will continue to provide you with on-going education and support. We also have an executive model where our franchisees can choose to hire inspectors so they can focus on the managing and marketing of the business. About 10% of our franchisees don’t do any home inspections at all.
Got insurance? Ask whether the inspector carries “errors and omissions insurance,” Also beware of added “Insurance Options” where some inspectors try and sell you a “insurance package” on your appliances or heating units.
Got a guarantee? “Do you offer a guarantee?” Most professional inspectors will offer a “Money Back Guarantee” of some description. This means they are confident enough in their abilities to guarantee them.
Get it in writing. Ask if the inspector puts his findings into a narrative-style report; that’s what you want – not just a long checklist. Usually most reports now include over all pictures of building and any deficiencies found.
Ask to see a sample; it’s often available on the inspector’s Web site. Look at it to assess whether you’re comfortable with the language and can understand it. Also see that the inspector is thorough, and covers all of the areas that the organization he belongs to says he will cover in its standards of practice, this will also tell you if inspector goes up on the roof or not.
Attend the Inspection Yourself. Before hiring the inspector, ask to come along when the home is examined. A BIG RED FLAG would be if they don’t want you to go on the home inspection with them. A home inspection usually takes 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Unless a team is examining the home, be suspicious of anyone who tells you it will take 45 minutes to an hour.
With a little investigating of your own, you’ll likely end up with a home that contains no expense surprises. And that just makes everyone happy
Common Home Defects found in most homes. This are some of the most common deficiencies found during home inspections in the Barrie region.
Lot and Roof Drainage
Keeping water out of your house in one of the most important areas to be considered in building design and annual maintenance checklists. Eave troughs collect large amounts of water, average is 160 gallons per hour, which is then directed down to ground level to be dispersed. This is where most systems have problems, from missing extensions to reversed splash pads, and it is important to ensure all water is directed away from your home. I have actually come across homes where the sump pump was pumping water out into the exterior corner of the house where the water ran right back down the foundation to be re-cycled again. Areas around foundations are prone to settling and should be built back up to ensure that any water will flow away from home.
Foundations
The primary function of the foundation is to transfer the load of your house unto your footings. Water can enter your home through cracks and holes in your foundation. Cement block foundations are required to be parged and then coated with damp proofing product to prevent this. Poured concrete foundations are required to have form holes sealed to prevent water entry. Minor cracks in foundations can be attributed to settlement of building or shrinkage cracks which would appear in poured concrete foundations. Any crack in your foundation is a potential source of water entry into your basement. If your area has excellent drainage and surface water is not an issue then sealing your cracks yourself could be an option, if not then a professional will seal poured concrete cracks using injected foam or epoxy for around 300 to 600 dollars. Sealing with epoxy will make the cracked area stronger than surrounding untouched area. Horizontal cracks in basements are stress cracks and usually should be inspected by engineer to ensure safety of the home.
Cladding
There are many types of cladding used in homes today, we are going to discuss brick veneer and vinyl siding, the most common types of cladding used in new homes in Barrie, ON. Brick – There are two common types of brick in use today, clay and cement bricks, clay being the most expensive and more durable of the two. The most common defects in brick are caused by poor workmanship and settling of the house or foundation. Checking the brick work for cracks in mortar is very important part of your home inspection. Finding cracks prior to moisture and freezing damage occurring can drastically reduce the amount of work required to repair problem. Corbelled brick corners are an area where cracked mortar is very common but is an easy fix. Step cracks usually indicate a structural type problem is present and deeper investigation is required. Home owners can cause damage to bricks by building planters which allow soil to contact brick, this will result in spalling of brick face and eventually the brick will crumble and require replacement. Vinyl Siding – This product has proven to be an attractive and low maintenance alternative to brick. If not properly installed vinyl siding can come loose which will make it very susceptible to damage. Properly installed siding has to be able to expand and contract without warping, this is done by not hammering in nails tightly and the fastening slot will allow siding to expand and contract with changing temperatures. Washing your vinyl siding spring and fall is also a good idea as this will help prevent staining from airborne contaminants. Vinyl siding is susceptible to cracking, especially in winter months when cold temperatures can make it extremely brittle.
Windows
Windows come in all sizes and shapes with many different types of opening models. We are going to concentrate on mainly the casement style window, as this is the type of window, which commonly has defects. Casement windows commonly have problems with the cranking mechanism. Stripped windows cranks are commonly found on windows in children’s bedrooms and are mainly due to the fact that in the winter these windows tend to freeze up and then when the crank is operated, a stripped mechanism results. Broken seals in thermal units are another common defect found in windows. Windows around 15 years, and older, are usually found to have problems with leaking thermal units. There is a process that involves inserting tiny one-way vents into these units which can eliminate the moisture problem and save you money. The “R” value of windows is not so high that this procedure would create a huge heat loss. Then there are the common defects in windows, which can include, no caulking, cracked glass panes, improperly trims, sagging headers above windows, require painting and last but not least cracked or rotting wood.
Roof
We are going to concentrate on asphalt or fibreglass shingles as this is by far the most common type of product used in new homes today. Shingles can last anywhere from 15 to 25 years depending on quality of product and environment that they endure. Shingles on south side of home usually fail first due to greater exposure to sun and UV radiation. Proper venting is a very important factor that can greatly affect the life of your shingles. Building code requires 1 square foot of vents for every 300 square foot of roof. Ensuring adequate venting is important part of home inspection, a lot of homes have inadequate soffit venting due to insulation preventing continuous movement of air. This allows moisture and heat to build up in your attic and will dramatically reduce life of shingles. Inspecting flashing, valleys, skylights, vents and eave trough are another important factor of your home inspection. Ensure your inspector has a ladder and walks your roof if he is able.
Furnace / Air Conditioning
Furnaces have an estimated life span of 15 to 20 years and this can vary greatly with maintenance being the biggest factor in extending life of your furnace. Your furnace cannot have any holes, be rusted through in any area and must be hooked up to an approved venting system. If connected to a “B” vent, a one-inch clearance must be maintained from combustibles, which also includes insulation. Check your flame color, yellow or orange flames indicate incomplete combustion which may be fixed with a simple tune up from your furnace technician. Many furnaces have no cap for filter cover which allows for both heat and cold air to escape into your basement. Your HVAC duct should be sealed using metallic duct tape to block any areas where air is escaping from your system. Humidifiers are a common cause of water source for damaging furnaces; they become clogged calcium and mineral deposits and overflow allowing water to enter body of furnace causing premature failure of unit. Central air conditioners are essentially a sealed unit. Using a temperature gauge can determine if unit is operating at a level that is acceptable. I use 58 degrees F as a bench mark in testing in hot weather. This ensures that unit will maintain your home at a comfortable temperature. All lines and insulation are checked for any damage or required replacement.
Electrical
The number one concern for homeowners and insurance companies is aluminum wiring. Installed in the early seventies as a substitute for high priced copper, aluminum has generated a lot of negative press, some maybe not deserved. Knowledge of aluminum wire is required to be disclosed by the home seller. Consequently some people are creatively hiding aluminum wiring. This might involve installing wire so insulation covers all exposed wire and running copper from main panel to junction boxes where it is connected to the existing aluminum wire. Adding pony panels, which allowable and recommended, is a great way of expanding your main panels resources. I came across one pony panel, a full sized 100 amp panel, which was powered off supply cables in switch box. This panel was noted in listing as an asset! There are a myriad of minor electrical problems to be checked in your home. Another main panel observation is that many people rather than add a breaker just attach two or more wires to an existing breaker, this is a not permitted and is a potential fire risk. Open junction boxes, missing covers, wiring contacting heat ducts and un-supported wiring are common defects noted on majority of inspections.
Plumbing
The other half of the keeping water away from your house equation is your interior plumbing system. Lack of caulking and sub-standard products or workmanship is also a big offender when it comes to keeping your house dry. Galvanized pipe is another item that insurance companies may be concerned about. Galvanized pipe tends to corrode from the inside out leaving any visible signs of impending failure, which tends to make insurance companies a little nervous about insuring homes with galvanized plumbing. Leaking or dripping faucets can use a lot of water. A toilet that does not stop running can be very expensive item when you get your water bill. I inspected a local 9 plex apartment building where the water bill had tripled in cost over previous bill. One apartment has a continuously running toilet which the tenant never notified owner about. Scheduling regular inspections of your homes plumbing system may save you money and prevent a possible water leak.
Insulation
Homes today have a much higher insulation R-value than older models, the standard for your attic insulation is R-40. Coupled with vapor barriers this is a very important part of your homes building envelope. Many homes have lots of insulation but it has been compromised by workmen installing products such as pot lights and ceiling fans and never remedied. The un-suspecting homeowner never realizes the loss of heat and release of moisture that is taking place. I have inspected homes where there has been a sun room added on and for a period of two or more years that complete area has not had any insulation. Vermiculite insulation is receiving a lot of attention due to asbestos hazard. Most vermiculite was produced from Libby mine in Montana and contains trace amounts of asbestos. There is some type of vermiculite that has no asbestos risk, which can only be determined by laboratory testing. Homeowners are obligated to disclose any vermiculite insulation that they know of. This is another area where your home inspector can help and possibly save you a lot of money and headaches. Having Vermiculite professionally removed can range as high as $20,000 for a typical home.
Mould or Mold
Mold has been a inspection headliner for quite a number of years. Mold is present everywhere, outside, in your home and sometimes even in the wood you are building with. Moud requires three items to grow, they are; warm environment, protein supply (paper on drywall will do) and moisture. As you can see if you have any water or moisture problems in your home for any length of time then you probably have mold somewhere in your home. That is why it is so important to keep water out of your home and control the water you do have in your home by the proper use of exhaust vents, HRV units and humidity control. Some people are sensitive to molds. For these people, exposure to molds can cause symptoms such as nasal stuffiness, eye irritation, wheezing, or skin irritation. Some people, such as those with serious allergies to molds, may have more severe reactions. Severe reactions may occur among workers exposed to large amounts of molds in occupational settings, such as farmers working around moldy hay. Severe reactions may include fever and shortness of breath. Some people with chronic lung illnesses, such as obstructive lung disease, may develop mold infections in their lungs.
Structural
The structural component of your home includes all the items that comprise the supporting elements of your home, which include but are limited to; footings, floors, foundation, walls, columns and piers and roofing system. Visual inspection involves looking for cracks, missing supports, under-sized support construction, twisted or cracked beams, joists, rafters, trusses or support members. Consider your structure as the exterior and interior framework that encompasses your home. Defects in this system can be considered serious and should not be taken lightly as you whole home depends on this system.
For more information on your homes systems or construction visit the Barrie Home Inspector and what professional knowledge and experience can do for you on your next home inspection.
Barrie Home Inspector’s gallery of defects. Defect pictures from actual home inspections and including the following categories, plumbing, heating, air conditioning, HVAC, foundations, basements, electrical, roofing, doors and windows, decks,...
