Fall Maintenance Tips for Home Owners. It’s that time of year again. The days are getting shorter and cooler. To ensure that your house remains in prime condition over the winter, a good weekend spent on preventative maintenance is a great investment. By making a thorough inspection of your home inside and out you can detect and repair problems before they become issues. This can save you time and costly headaches down the road. If there are repairs below beyond your comfort zone, hire a licensed Contractor to handle the job.
GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTS
Neglected gutters can lead to wood rot problems, pest infestations, wet basements, foundation damage and many other expensive complications.
1. Clean gutters and downspouts frequently throughout fall to prevent build up of leaves and other debris.
2. Be sure water is not coming down behind gutters and that all support brackets are securely in place.
3. If you have trees that overhang or are near your roof, install gutter guards.
4. Check to ensure water drains properly 5’- 6’ away from the foundation. If it doesn’t, settlement of your foundation, water penetration, and damage to your flatwork concrete can result.
5. Seal up any cracks in the driveway, sidewalks, and patio.
WOOD OR HARDBOARD SIDING
1. Seal around all of the penetrations. (ie-A/C refrigerant line, sump pump discharge line, etc.)
2. Check the vertical lap joints or vertical seams and if the existing caulk is cracked open, remove it, and caulk again. (Make sure you’re using paintable caulk.)
3. On hardboard panel siding, if the base edge is swelled or slightly rotted, now is a great time to install Cedar trim. Bevel the top edge of the Cedar trim at a 45 degree angle and nail it to the bottom edge of the panel siding making sure the trim hangs down about ½”. Caulk the top of the board, prime, and paint. This will prevent the siding from drawing any more water from capillary action and rotting.
4. On hardboard panel or lap siding, rotted siding should be replaced.
5. Keep the base edge sealed and painted. On new construction, the base edge of the siding where the lower roof meets the upper wall is almost never painted.
6. Keep the siding painted. Regular exterior paint usually lasts 4-6 years. There is higher grade exterior paint that can last upwards of 20-30 years. It’s like painting with thick mud, but lasts great!
WINDOWS AND DOORS
1. Check around the window frames inside and out for potential leaks. Caulk any visible gaps.
2. Inspect and repair any loose or damaged window locks, latches or door frames.
3. Check around all exterior doors for gaps. If it’s sunny look for daylight around the door. Install weather stripping to prevent drafts and lower heating bills.
4. If you have older windows check around those for gaps and weather strip as needed.
5. Wood casement windows notoriously are either never stained on the bottom edge of the window or the stain becomes worn off. Once this wood is left exposed, it doesn’t take long for it to rot out. Open those windows and stain that exposed wood.
HEATING SYSTEMS
Do you remember the last time your furnace was serviced? Most people don’t and neglected furnaces lose efficiency and may have a cracked heat exchanger.
1. Have your heating system cleaned, serviced, and evaluated by a licensed HVAC Company.
2. Replace the filter in your furnace on a regular basis. This is the #1 cause of cracked heat exchangers.
3. Check for leaks around the duct joints. Taking time to seal any gaps with heat tape or duct mastiff can help you lower your utility bills. I’ve found disconnected ducts that were blowing conditioned air into crawlspaces and attics.
PLUMBING
1. If you have any pipes that run through unconditioned spaces such as crawlspaces or garages, take time to thoroughly insulate them. If your supply pipes have produced icy cold water during the past winters, they may be in danger of freezing. If you have a bathroom that is built over a cantilevered wall or over a deck, house wrap that is sealed properly is critical to prevent air flow while insulation helps keep the conditioned space warm.
2. Disconnect all garden hoses. Even frost-free spigots will freeze if the garden hose holds water in the pipe.
3. Remember to winterize the sprinkler system. If you have a system that drains automatically via gravity, then you need to make sure the valves are turned diagonally and the drain valve has been fully drained. If your system requires the lines to be blown out, get it done before the first freeze. There’s nothing worse than turning on a sprinkler system after a hard winter and finding the lines have burst.
CHIMNEY AND FIREPLACE
Before you fire up your fireplace or stove, have it cleaned and serviced by a Certified Chimney Sweep. Go to the Chimney Sweep Institute of America’s website at www.csia.org to find a Certified Sweep in your area. In 2009, 21.3% of the chimneys I inspected were breached with either cracked or shifted liners. These conditions pose a threat of carbon monoxide poisoning or catching your home on fire. Numerous ones had heavy creosote buildup, inadequate and/or cracked crowns, missing caps, spauled brick, and deteriorated mortar joints.
SMOKE AND CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS
Make sure you have smoke and carbon monoxide detectors installed on every level of the home. Change the batteries in all the smoke and carbon monoxide detectors and check them frequently. Make sure you install CO detectors with peak level buttons so you can check the highest level since the last time you pushed the button as manufacturers have them calibrated to go off at 50-70 ppm of CO gas when long-term exposure to only 8 ppm can be deadly.
DRYER VENTS
1. When cleaning the dryer vents, take them apart and clean them out by running water down the vent pipe if possible. You’ll be amazed at how much lint is caught in the piping. If the dryer vent is encased in a finished wall or ceiling where removing it isn’t possible, hook up a leaf blower and force a high velocity of air through it to blow out the lint.
2. Unplug your dryer, then slide the lint trap out and remove the screws holding the insert that your lint trap slides into. Once this is off, reach your hand into the bottom of the dryer and remove all of the excess lint you can grab. I did this on ours and removed about a basketball sized pile of lint that had been trapped inside the channel of the dryer!
3. Make sure to clean your lint trap off with soapy water. Film can build up on this that blocks airflow making your dryer run much longer to dry your clothes. Don’t believe me, run water over your lint trap and see if it holds water like a bowl. Surprise!
4. Make sure the end of the dryer vent doesn’t have a mesh on the outside. Lint will clog this up very quickly.
ATTIC VENTILATION
For proper attic ventilation, the square footage for the intake vents needs to equal the exhaust vents. Rule of thumb is a home should have a soffit vent every 8’. Continuous soffit vents for intake and continuous ridge vents work best. In 2009, 49% of the homes I inspected had inadequate attic ventilation. Poor attic ventilation leads to higher utility bills, moisture building up in the attic space, faster wear-n-tear on your shingles, and it also voids your manufacturer’s warranty on those shingles. I’ve ran across moisture so heavy in attics that the entire bottom side of the roof deck was black with mold.
1. Pop your soffit vents off and hose the Cottonwood or any other debris off them. Most are installed with small screws or nails and can be easily taken off with a screwdriver. If removing them isn’t an option, take a leaf blower and blow up into the vent. If you could take them off, before you reinstall them, look up in the opening to make sure the baffles or air channel hasn’t been squished. There should be about 1” of space between the roof deck and the insulation here. If the insulation is tight to the roof deck where your soffit vent is located, air is not able to enter the attic rendering that soffit vent useless. Take a broom handle and slide it up along the roof deck and make the 1” air channel again.
2. Explore your attic. If you see mold growth, stains on your rafters, darkened areas on your roof deck, rust on the nails poking through your roof deck, or can smell a musty odor, then you most likely have inadequate attic ventilation. (If you look in the cold of winter and see frost buildup on the nails or roof deck, then you know you have poor attic ventilation also.) If your attic ventilation is inadequate, hire a licensed Roofing Contractor to have it corrected. There are numerous solutions depending on what you already have for attic ventilation and what upgrade would work best for your home.
CRAWLSPACE VENTILATION
1. At the end of Fall, close up your crawlspace vents. This prevents cold air from entering and freezing your pipes and helps keep the rooms above the crawlspace warmer.
2. Re-open the vents in the Spring. Having them open during the Spring, Summer, & Fall helps reduce moisture buildup if you’re in colder climates.
Home Inspection and Drywall Basics
One of the most common deficiencies found during a home inspection is cracks in drywall or plaster. Cracks are common in plaster and drywall because they are brittle and rigid but are supported by materials that are not equally as rigid. Plaster and drywall are attached to flexible wood structures on foundations that rest upon compressible soil. Wood expands in humid weather and contracts in dry weather. Plaster and drywall are too rigid to move with the wood and therefore cracks will appear when there is any movement in the house or foundation.
Drywall installation involves nailing or screwing the sheets to the studs. Drywall installers cut the sheets to fit, and holes must be cut to accommodate pipes and mechanical equipment. The sheets are then fastened to the studs in a process called hanging. While most drywall installation used to use nails, screws are now the most common. Drywall is normally installed perpendicular to (across) the ceiling joists and wall studs, and the ceiling is always installed first.
Special moisture resistant drywall is used where excessive moisture may be a problem, such as bathrooms. In most cases, the moisture resistant drywall is green. Fire-rated drywall (Type X) is used where building codes require it. Typically in garages and under stairs.
After the drywall is installed, special metal corner strips (“corner bead”) is installed on all corners. This helps to protect the edges of the drywall and provide a nice straight finished edge. Joint compound (drywall mud) is used to finish all joints, nail heads and corners. In most cases, two or three coats of compound are needed at all taped joints. The texture coat is applied last.
The finished quality of your drywall will have a large impact on the beauty of your home. Most drywall cracks can be eliminated by just applying joint compound, but plaster cracks should be widened to 3/8 inch down to the lathe cleaning it out and wetting it with Elmer’s glue diluted 50% with water. If sections of plaster are disconnected from the lathe, they can be secured with “plaster buttons” prior to plastering the crack. Press fresh patching plaster, not joint compound, into the crack so that it is forced into the spaces between the lathes.
When plaster ceilings are full of cracks, apply drywall directly over the plaster and don’t bother patching. It’s just not worth the effort. Make sure the drywall is screwed to the floor joist or strapping and not just to the lathe.
Buildings built between 1930 and 1950 may have metal lathes under the plaster. You’ll notice when you try to hang a picture! You can distinguish between metal or wood lathe by hitting the wall. Metal lathe walls tend to be much stiffer.
This home maintenance tip and maintenance advice is brought to you by the Barrie Home Inspector and Orillia Home Inspector
Smoke Detectors Required in RV’s and Trailers in Ontario. An excerpt from the Ontario Fire Marshall’s Office identifies the requirement for Smoke Detectors to be installed in RV’s and Trailers in Ontario. This would also apply to tourists that are visiting the Province.
During the past two weeks, two men have died in separate trailer fires in Ontario. It has been confirmed by Office of the Fire Marshal investigators that no working smoke alarms were recovered from either trailer. Fires in these types of seasonal homes can spread incredibly fast.
As a result of these tragic fatal fires, the Fire Marshal of Ontario is reminding everyone that it is the law to have a working smoke alarm in their trailer home, motor home and other recreational vehicle. In addition to smoke alarms, these homes, vehicles or boats used for sleeping should be equipped with a carbon monoxide alarm.
While many new trailer and RV models may already meet a construction standard requiring working smoke alarms, older models may not be equipped with any or they may not have been properly maintained. Smoke alarms should be tested before sleeping in any of these seasonal homes, then monthly and after any absence of more than a few days. Replace any smoke alarms that may be more than 10 years old.
Failure to comply with the applicable Fire Code smoke alarm requirements can result in a ticket for $235 or a fine of up to $100,000.
QUOTES
“The Ontario Fire Code requires every ‘dwelling unit’ in Ontario to have working smoke alarms on every storey and outside all sleeping areas,” explained Ted Wieclawek, Fire Marshal of Ontario. “What many people may not know is that the term ‘dwelling unit’ includes seasonal homes such as park model trailers, cabins and cottages and may include trailer homes, motor homes and other recreational vehicles”.
“Smoke alarms can alert you and give you and your family the precious time needed to safely escape a fire,” said Wieclawek. “Install smoke and carbon monoxide alarms in any structure where people may be sleeping or living.”
There’s no question that working smoke detectors save lives. Statistics from the Ontario Fire Marshall’s office indicate that in about 50% of fatal home fires, the victims had no smoke alarm
warning.
Effective March 1, 2006 every home in Ontario must have working smoke detectors on every storey of their home and outside of sleeping areas. This new law applies to single family homes, semi-detached homes and town homes that are either owner occupied or rented. Additionally, all smoke detectors must be replaced every ten years.
Fines for non-compliance by individuals range from $235.00 up to $50,000.00 and tenants can be fined for intentionally disabling smoke detector units.
The cost of a smoke detector combined with a carbon monoxide detector is about $60.00. At this price, and when you consider your own life and those of your family, it’s money well spent.
For more information about the new smoke detector law in Ontario visit the Ontario Fire Marshall’s website at http://www.ofm.gov.on.ca/.
I am amazed at the amount of homes in Barrie ON that have no smoke detectors or defective smoke detectors. Although there was a big “push” to ensure every home, and every level, has a working smoke detector during the initial implementation of the new law, there is no enforcement or education being conducted at the present time and the results are clearly visible with the amount of homes not having any or adequate protection.
Landlords in particular should ensure their rental units are complying with the smoke detector requirements to protect themselves and their tenants.
Smoke alarms are critical safety devices that have been in existence for at least 30 years, however, Ontarians still continue to die in homes without working smoke alarms. This is why the provincial campaign Working Smoke Alarms: Its the Law was developed. Ensuring homeowners, landlords and tenants of residential occupancies are aware of their responsibilities and comply with the smoke alarm requirements will significantly increase public safety in Ontario.
Septic Tank Inspections. Because the septic tank and drainfield at a property are buried, thus hidden from view, because these components are expensive to replace, and because a costly problem can be present but not obvious, it is important to understand the septic system and to inspect and test it when buying a property served by its own private septic tank.
Septic systems include buried septic tanks (sewage tanks) and drainfields – expensive and hidden from view such as in the photo above. This document provides advice for home buyers who are buying a home with a private septic system: homes using a septic tank and drainfield or similar soil absorption system.
Other chapters of this guide explain what goes wrong with septic systems, 5-recommends and describes septic inspection and test methods in more detail, explains how to be sure your septic inspection and septic test are conducted properly, tells you where to get more septic system information about a given property, and warns of unsanitary or dangerous site conditions.
If you need to know how to install a septic system, or if you find that you have a sewage pit (cesspool) this website provides articles explaining those topics too.
This schematic of a conventional two-compartment septic tank (below) illustrates the first of two major septic system parts: the septic treatment tank..
Home buyers ask us these questions about septic systems:
• What is a Septic Tank?
• What is a Leach Field?
• How does a septic system work?
• What does the existing septic system consist of at my new home?
• Do I have a Cesspool or Drywell?
• How do I know if the septic system is working properly?
• What septic inspections and tests should I have performed when I am buying a home?
• How long will a septic system last?
• Is septic system maintenance necessary?”
To help buyers obtain the necessary information to address these questions, we have put together this document to guide them in making informed decisions regarding the potential problems and costs associated with a property’s septic system.
2-YOU NEED TO KNOW AND DO: How Septic Systems Work. Here is the minimum you need to know and what you need to do (or have done) when buying a property with a septic system
Our sketch below shows the second major portion of a septic system: the effluent disposal or drainfield or soakaway bed that disposes of clarified effluent liquid waste that leaves the septic tank.
So how does a septic system work? A private onsite septic system means that the waste from your building drains (sinks, showers, toilets) goes into a septic tank which retains the solids and lets the effluent flow into the soils on the property.
Properly designed and installed these systems are functional and sanitary. Private septic systems serve more homes in the U.S. and many other countries than any other waste disposal method. But the components are costly and do not have an indefinite life.
Because of the potential repair/replacement costs involved, and because the system is buried and cannot be exhaustively inspected and tested, you want to do what you can to evaluate the condition of the septic system before you complete the purchase of the property.
Here’s what to do: If you are buying a home with a septic tank and drain field, here’s what you need to do, as succinctly as possible. Each of these steps is described in more detail below, and in even more detail in linked-to documents.
Steps 1 and 2 are essential. Step 3 is usually a good idea. Step 4 depends on the results of steps 1,2,3 but is usually a good idea. Step 5 is not usually done but might be necessary. Step 6 is what you do if you’re being really thorough.
Synonyms for “septic system” used by the general public include septic waste system, sewage systems, and water sewage systems, even Roman sewage systems. All of these refer to onsite systems which hold and separate sewage waste from its liquid effluent which is treated further and then disposed-of by any of a variety of means which we will discuss. At this site we also discuss special considerations for handling septic waste such as garbage disposal septic tank waste volume and what to do about it. Perform these steps in the order we list them. (For example, don’t pump the tank before a loading and dye test.)
1. Ask About the Septic System – where is it, what’s installed, what’s the service and repair history
2. Make a Visual Site Inspection for signs of trouble. If you can find the tank, for safety, be sure that there is no evidence of collapse or subsidence on the property, and be sure that the septic tank (or cesspool, or drywell) has a safe cover so that no one can fall into the tank. See SEPTIC TANK COVERS for details.
3. Perform a Septic Loading & Dye Test to see if it produces evidence of a failure. Hire a home inspector who knows how to perform and will include this test.
4. Pump the Septic Tank and inspect for additional clues, depending on what you learned at 1,2,3.
5. Additional Septic System Physical Investigation might be needed
6. Get Outside Information Sources about Septic Systems if you’re being really thorough
7. Neighboring Septic System Problems – advice for dealing with a neighboring septic system producing odors or seepage.
For some recommend septic tank inspectors visit Barrie Home Inspector for contact details.
Capenter Ants and Your Home
Carpenter ants are one of the most valuable insects we have on earth. They chew up tons of wood and turn it into fine sawdust that rots and provides compost for new growth. Because they enter man made structures they are considered the most destructive common insect pest we have in Canada.
IDENTIFICATION AND LIFE CYCLE
Two common species of carpenter ants found in Canada: (There are others)
1. Modoc : all black. (Legs may have a rusty red color) One queen in parent nest.
2. Vicinus : black head, rusty red thorax (mid section) and black abdomen
(tail section.) Multiple queens in parent nest.
Most carpenter ant species have other similar characteristics.
Five Sizes : Carpenter ants can be as small as one quarter inch or as large as three quarters of an inch. All sizes can be found in one nest. (See illustration above)
Most Carpenter Ant species establish their initial nest in decayed wood, but, once established, the ants extend their tunneling into sound wood and can do considerable damage to a structure.
These species commonly nest in standing trees (living or dead), in stumps, or in logs on the forest floor. Since many houses are being built in forested areas, well established, vigorous colonies are readily available in the immediate vicinity to attack these dwellings. This is especially true when the homeowner insists that the home be built with a minimal removal of trees.
Carpenter Ants typically have a parent colony in outside nesting areas, such as live or dead trees, stumps, logs or decorative landscape wood. When the colony grows larger and needs room to expand satellite colonies are established. These satellite colonies often develop in nearby structures presumably because they offer warm protection.
Only the parent colony contains the queen(s), young larvae and workers, while the satellite contains the mature larvae, pupae, workers, and/or winged reproductives. Ants move back and forth from parent nest to satellite nest but just a few (less than 10 %) will be visible foraging for food.
Sometimes they can be seen moving mature larvae (white and grub-like) or pupae (papery cocoons).
Ants are generally active along ant trails from April to mid-October. These trails follow natural contours and lines of least resistance and also frequently cut across lawns. Traffic on these trails may be noticeable during the day, but peak traffic occurs after sunset and continues throughout the night.
The parent colony is often located in a tree, stump, stacked wood within 100 meters of the house or wood and stumps buried in the yard when the house was constructed. Decorative wood landscape ties brought in to enhance the beauty of a yard or driveway may also be the source of a parent colony. The colony does not produce reproductives (winged males and queens) until it is from 3 to 6 years old and contains about 2,000 workers. The natural food for these ants consists of insects and other arthropods and sweet exudates from aphids and insects. They are also attracted to other sweet material such as decaying fruits.
Reproductive carpenter ants (winged males and females) leave the nest as early as January if the nest is in a heated structure. Those living outside in logs and stumps will not swarm until about early May. The fertilized queens must then find wet wood to establish a new nest, and the cycle starts over again. The new queen could live 15 years or more and lay 70,000 fertilized eggs.
Getting Rid of Carpenter Ants
First a word of caution.
Many pest control professionals consider Carpenter ants the most difficult pest there is to deal with in the industry. With all the training and experience they have, there are some homes that take considerable time and a number of treatments to completely eradicate these destructive insects. Many homeowners will call in a professional after they have failed to solve the problem themselves. This situation is usually more difficult to deal with because the homeowner randomly sprayed pesticides killing the obvious evidence and scattering the satellite nests. Of course this increases the cost. If you are not prepared to spend hours in your attic and crawl space wearing a respirator, rubber gloves, coveralls and a hat, then you may be wise to call a professional to do the job properly.
You can read the advice from a Canadian Government web site if you are determined to deal with carpenter ants yourself.
The process:
1. Find all of the Satellite nests in the home.
2. Try to locate the “mother” nests and the queens.
3. Eliminate conditions that made the home a suitable habitat for the ants.
4. Treat the satellite nests with a suitable pest control method or product.
Don’t:
1. Don’t spray pesticides on ants outside the nests. Use a vacuum cleaner inside your home.
2. Don’t use “ant drops, ant poisons, ant traps”. Save your money for something worthwhile.
3. Don’t squash foraging ants. Follow them.
4. Don’t rip apart walls or ceilings to find the nests.
How to find the satellite nests:
At the bottom of this page are links to educational institute web sites, each of them displaying some very interesting guidelines and theories about finding carpenter ant nests. Some of the suggestions are excellent. Some may not seem practical to ant experienced pest control professional. If you want to strictly follow the advice of the academic community, we suggest you read the information presented by Dr. Lauren Hansen, Ph.D. of Spokane Falls Community College. Dr. Hansen is probably the most highly respected source of knowledge about carpenter ants among entomologists and pest control professionals around the world. She has made a habit of putting on the coveralls, respirator and rubber gloves to go down into dirty crawl spaces and apply her knowledge about dealing with these pests. Dr. Hansen has hands on experience, not just theories.
Finding carpenter ant nests requires a lot of time and patience. With years of experience, a professional will know where these nests are likely to be and will look for evidence of frass, the junk thrown out of nests. This is often caught up in spider webs in attics, crawl spaces, basements under decks and around the exterior perimeter under the soffits and below the siding. Sometimes sawdust excavated by the ants from the structure will be noticeable, but not always.
Following ants outside the nest is the best indication of it’s location, but ants will often follow channels hidden from the hot sun, rain and your vision. Less than 10 % of the population will ever leave the nests so at times there are very few to follow. Knowing whether the ant you are following is heading for food, or has already eaten and is heading back to the nest is an indicator that some very experienced professionals are capable of seeing.
Listen for them. If your hearing is good and the home is very quiet you may be able to hear the rustling and chewing noise they make. A medical stethoscope is useful but the sound of a refrigerator or even a clock can confuse the inexperienced ear.
How to find the main nests (and the queens):
In some locations it would be impossible to find all the main nests among the trees, logs, stumps, buried wood and roots. Even if these nests are found, removing them can be a monumental task. All satellite nests remain in contact with the main nest. Workers can be seen carrying mature larvae from the overcrowded queen’s home to new or established satellites of the colony. If you find the main nest, try to remove it physically. If you put toxic products into it, they may leach into the ground water and contaminate water supplies or fish habitat some distance away.
If you can not remove the nest, try to eliminate any favorable conditions that encourage them to move toward the home. Tree branches, fences, garden hoses, structural wood touching the soil, landscape ties and utility wires all provide an easy route to follow. A very fine dusting of diatomaceous earth around the perimeter base of the home will discourage all insects from crossing it to gain entry. This is short term and should be repeated frequently in the spring, summer and fall.
Pesticides, Poisons and Secret Formulas.
Toxic Sprays: Most pesticides available to the public will kill any insect that they come in contact with while still wet. Once dry, the residual effect is minimal and has very little effect on insects.
Ant Dusts: Diatomaceous earth is sold in a variety of containers with convincing trade names. The basic product can also be purchased in much less expensive plain plastic bags at most garden stores.
Toxic chlorpyrifos: is now off the market and illegal to use in Canada and U.S.A.
Boric Acid dust: It is very difficult to inject into a nesting cavity without proper equipment. Do not put it in exposed areas.
Ant Poisons sold over the counter at most hardware stores have little if any effect on carpenter ants
Ant Traps are actually not traps. The little tin cans with holes in the side contain borax. They have no effect on carpenter ants.
Secret Formulas: If you find one that works, patent it immediately. Scientists around the world have been searching for years for ingredients that will attract and kill or repel carpenter ants. Some things that homeowners have tried include cinnamon, cayenne pepper, moth balls, boric acid and icing sugar.
None of them have been proven effective.
Is your Home Inspector trained to discover carpenter ants? If you require an experienced Home Inspector who can and will conduct a complete Home Inspection call Bob Haynes at 705-715-2844
This article is brought to you by Bob Haynes Barrie Home Inspector
Home Maintenance Check List
Homeowners have a duty to make sure their homes are as healthy as they can make them. This ties in to healthy home maintenance, and a healthy home is said to be one that is built, maintained, and then rehabilitated in a way that promotes the good health of its occupants. A few goals that homeowners should have with regards to a healthy home is keeping it dry, orderly, ventilated, contaminant-free, free from pests, secure, and also maintained. Healthy home maintenance will lead to a lessening of allergens, a lower likelihood of injuries resulting from accidents, and also a prevention of sickness.
Spring
Yard & Exterior
Make sure to assess the water drainage in order to see that it flows away from the residence.
Check the whole area of the yard to evaluate whether there are any fall, trip, choking, and sharp-edge hazards. If there are, be sure to remove them from the yard.
If you have a pool on the property, make sure to maintain the fence around the pool so that it is intact.
Assess the year to see whether there are signs of pests in or around it, pests like roaches, rats, termites, or bats. If there are, an exterminator should be called.
Sanitize the window wells and evaluate the drainage.
Clean both the downspouts on the property, as well as the gutters.
Exterior Roof, Walls, Windows
Evaluate to see whether the shingles on the roof are in good condition.
Assess the valley, chimney, and the plumbing vent, and also the skylight flashing.
Check to see that the gutters emit water away from your home.
Assess the attic to see if it has any indications of the roof leaking.
See if any paint is peeling on the outside of the house.
In the area where the deck is connected to the residence, see if there are any indications of leaks.
To see if the flashing of the home is intact, be sure to check the bottom of the doors and windows.
Evaluate the home’s door and window sills to determine if leaks are present.
If the dryer vent needs cleaning, attend to it.
Determine if the exhaust ducts are clear. If not, then clear them.
Basement & Crawlspace
Determine that there are no puddles or wet surfaces here.
Look for the sump pump, and see if its valve is working properly.
Evaluate the floor drain to see if it is working.
Look after the surfaces of the basement by vacuuming them.
Interior Walls, Ceilings, Windows, Doors
Assess the operation of both doors and windows to see that they open and close smoothly.
Appliances
Attend to the screens and dryer vents of appliances by cleaning them.
Attend to the exhaust fan outlets and their screens by cleaning them.
Find the drain pans and coils on air conditioners and clean those.
Evaluate the operation of the dehumidifier, and clean its coils.
Plumbing, Fixtures and Appliances
Assess the drains and the supply time for any leaks that may have occurred.
Evaluate the functioning of kitchen and bathroom fans.
Electrical Equipment
Evaluate any electrical equipment for possibly damaged cords.
Do tests to determine if the ground fault interrupters are working fine.
Analyze carbon monoxide and smoke alarms to see if they are working well.
Garage
Make certain that fuel cans are stored properly.
Ensure that the garage door safety shut-off is in working order.
See if there are any indications of any water damage.
See if there are any indications of the presence of rodents, termites, roaches, or bats.
HVAC Equipment
Replace the filters on any air conditioners.
Fall
Yard & Exterior
Check the whole area of the yard to evaluate whether there are any fall, trip, choking, and sharp-edge hazards. If there are, be sure to remove them from the yard.
If you have a pool on the property, make sure to maintain the fence around the pool so that it is intact.
Assess the year to see whether there are signs of pests in or around it, pests like roaches, rats, termites, or bats. If there are, an exterminator should be called.
Make sure that the outdoor hoses and faucets are drained.
Sanitize the window wells and evaluate the drainage.
Clean both the downspouts on the property, as well as the gutters.
Exterior Roof, Walls, Windows
Assess the attic vents to see that everything is alright.
Make any necessary repairs on glass that has been either cracked or broken.
If the dryer vent needs cleaning, attend to it.
Determine if the exhaust ducts are clear. If not, then clear them.
Basement & Crawlspace
Determine that there are no puddles or wet surfaces here.
Look for the sump pump, and see if its valve is working properly.
See if there are any indications of termites, bats, rodents, or roaches.
Appliances
Clean out any outdoor air intakes along with any screens.
Furnaces, hot water heaters, and boilers should be cleaned.
Both ranges and ovens ought to be cleaned.
Plumbing, Fixtures and Appliances
Evaluate the hot water heater for signs of any leaks.
See if the boiler has any leaks.
Assess if the water meter or main or the well pump is exhibiting any signs of sweating or leaking.
Assess the drains and the supply time for any leaks that may have occurred.
Evaluate the functioning of kitchen and bathroom fans.
Electrical Equipment
Evaluate any electrical equipment for possibly damaged cords.
Analyze carbon monoxide and smoke alarms to see if they are working well.
Garage
Make certain that fuel cans are stored properly.
Ensure that the garage door safety shut-off is in working order.
See if there are any indications of the presence of rodents, termites, roaches, or bats.
HVAC Equipment
Replace the filters on any warm air furnaces.
Set the outdoor air to the heat recovery ventilation setting again.
Attic
Evaluate the attic to see if there are any indications of pests like bats, rodents, roaches, or termites.
Assess if the attic has suffered any water damage.
Make certain that the insulation is in place.
Annual
Exterior Roof, Walls, Windows
Only in the winter, determine if there are any ice dams or icicles that are present.
Interior Walls, Ceilings, Windows, Doors
Determine if there exist any indications of water damage.
Plumbing, Fixtures and Appliances
Inspect the connections in the washer hoses.
Look at the hoses of the dishwasher to see if any leaks are present.
Inspect the toilet supply and the shut-off valve.
Make sure the connections between the ice maker and the refrigerator’s drip pan are cleaned and assessed.
See if the surrounding area of the shower and the tub exhibits any sign of damage.
See if the drains and the traps under the showers, tubs, and sinks have any leaks in them.
Every two years, be sure to also clean the septic tank.
Electrical Equipment
Once every year, be certain to check all outlets for correct ground, neutral, and hot connections.
Attic
See if the fans still emit exhaust out of the house by inspecting the duct work connections.
As Needed
Interior Walls, Ceilings, Windows, Doors
Repair the doors and the windows, and apply lubricant to them also.
Appliances
Clean the screens that are found on the kitchen range hood.
